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Old 09-23-2012, 11:47 AM   #1
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2001 ZTS Auto, 140,000 ZTEC

If I accelerate from a stop and floor it, I get the stu-stu-go. On a few occasions, almost a like a backfire when floored from stop.

But, if I granny into it, and wait till I'm about 2,000 RPM to stomp on it no issue. Seems like anything above 2,000 pulls hard and runs great. Redline, what redline, it zings.

I picked it up in march with 138,000 and it was still bone factory stock. And it ran like $h*t. Factory plugs, wires, and air filter. Previous owner got it with about 32,000 so I asked what maintinance had been done. I got a questiong glare and a "like what? oil and brakes?". That said, I put in plugs and wires. Two plugs had almost no electrodes. It ran sweet for a while, then the hestitation stuff set in with cooler weather last few weeks.

It also doesn't like steady speeds between 25-45 MPH. Keep getting P0401, I think, for EGR. So I tried a new DPE valve and egr sensor with no change - suggestions from here. I did pull egr hose while running and it stumbled and reinstalled, leading me to believe egr valve good.?.

I also replaced left front strut/coil. (Missed TSB by 4 months before I got it.) replaced serp belt, air filter, famous pcv hose, front brakes, drivers door handle, blower resistor, bolted up RR window (whole regulator system tore up). LR door handle still broke, and will need rear tires soon -bad inside wear from strut issue.

So, PLEASE tell me it isn't the timing belt stretched just enough to change timing, weak bottom, strong top. Pulled top cover and eyeball inspection looks good. Still factory like I said.

ANY help Fanatics!! thanks.

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Old 09-23-2012, 12:00 PM   #2
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140k miles on a timing belt? Um... you need to get on that. Try inspecting it first, remove the timing inspection cover, and use a marker to mark the belt where you've inspected it. Flip it over as much as you can and check the ribs for damage. Mark it, bump the engine, and go check some more of it until you can't find somewhere you haven't marked.

Ordinarily I'd suspect the TPS in this situation, but 140k on a timing belt is way over maintenance recommendations. Fortunately, this engine is not an interference engine, but you should definitely look into doing that, and changing the water pump at the same time. The water pump is not driven by the timing belt, but one bolt is hidden by the metal timing belt cover. It's best to work on doing that one while it's off instead of having to remove it, and all the accessories down the road.

I'd consider a new serpentine belt and maybe tensioner also, although those can be done later.

Check out Rock Auto for a great price on Gates belts and timing parts. You will need a belt and belt tensioners. In the Vendor Deals, Group buys, and Special discounts forum there should be a discount code for Rock Auto, put it in the "Where did you hear about us" section and get 5%.
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Old 09-23-2012, 09:30 PM   #3
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Just don't feel like doing a timing belt right now. Not that I can not or won't, just don't want that to be the reason. Did serp belt not long ago. Stocker was tearing across, had 1.5 good ribs left. Was checking oil and tear happened to be in plain sight on top of p/s pump pulley. Took longer to move coolant resivior than belt replacement.

Think the belt could be stretched enogh? My 5 mile commute has got to be hard on it. LOL! But any othere ideas?

I've considered TPS, any deep thoughts on it?

One more thing, the upper rad hose neck. Noticed moisture on bottom at thermostat. Tightened the 3 screws, 1/4 -3/4 turn each. Damp, but no noticable drip with rad cap tight. Bt dry if rad cap not tight. Is there an o-ring gasket on thermostat and that seals it up, or a gasket on the composite housing?

Thanks again.
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