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Old 09-23-2012, 09:42 AM   #11
Mile30
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I needed to use a torch to remove that rusty nut from the fittings when I swapped header-for-stock a few weeks ago. 'Statie' gave me an inspection ticket and I had to change to stock and back... that fitting on the header I had to cut off, put the header in a vise and heat the thing until it was cherry red... then used a 1 1/16" wrench to get the old one off.

It's not fun, go with the cheaper ideas first; that fitting is a bear!
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Old 09-23-2012, 10:22 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by micsachek View Post
i also noticed when it stutters when im driving it will trip the little red light next to my hazard light button in the center of my dash. could have a possible electrical issue?
The PATS (Passive Anti Theft System) light will only reset like that if the ignition is turned off. That would indicate a loss of electrical power and an electrical fault. It may be a fault on its own or a contributing factor to your running problems.

You started this thread by saying you wanted directions on how to replace the EGR valve and you've added other symptoms as you've posted and it's gotten worse- multifunction light on, PATS light comes on intermittently, minor oil leak, car stutters - do we have all the symptoms now?

Did you do any preliminary EGR valve testing? Take Mile30's advice; that fitting is a PITA, I personally think your EGR DTC code is a big red herring.
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Old 09-29-2012, 04:50 AM   #13
micsachek
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ok well so far i changed my dpfe sensor as you told me then found a collapsed vaccum hose. i changed that out and the code for the dpfe sensor is gone. i recently changed my down stream 02 sensor but since the check engine light was still on i took it and now it has 2 codes showing. p1131 which is my upstream 02 sensor. i bought and changed that out now the other code came up on autozones reader but not o'rielly's reader and that code is b1676 i believe. something to do with high voltage. my light is still on and im going tomarrow to see why. i cant win at this moment :(
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Old 10-02-2012, 04:40 PM   #14
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is there a difference between a heated oxygen sensor and a regular oxygen sensor? i fixed most of these problems im having but its still idling bad. only code i got reading is p0136 so i hope if i can fix this i will be in the clear! wish me luck and any advice is helpful
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Old 10-02-2012, 07:57 PM   #15
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fairly self explanatory, the heated O2 sensor has a resistance heating element in it. It makes it so it reads more accurately faster where the non heated ones require a long warm up so it runs on the predefined fuel tables longer.

Heated should yield you better emissions and MPG sooner....
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Old 11-12-2012, 02:29 PM   #16
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ok i found out the my intake manifold had a vacuum leak and that was the reason for all my problems. also i found a wire that was melted and shorting out which was why my car was stalling. i now have no check engine light on so just want to say thank you to all of you who helped me with advice!
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Old 11-12-2012, 07:27 PM   #17
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Not to side track this thread ,but i am also having a issues , i have CEL for P0401 - EGR Flow Insufficient . However i have changed my DPFE sensor and still no change. Is there a way to test the DPFE to see whether it is in fact the cause or do i need to look elsewhere in the EGR system for a fault.
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Old 11-12-2012, 09:14 PM   #18
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Try:
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford_...gr_valve_1.php
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Old 11-12-2012, 09:17 PM   #19
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Thanks Tonne , will let you guys know how it turns out
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