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That's not an easy one, and I don't believe there is a How-To on changing a Duratec thermostat. First off, you should verify that the thermostat is bad. Thermostats go bad one of 2 ways: stick open, stick closed. If it was stuck closed, then you'd be overheating unless you drive a very short distance, and don't warm up the car. Most likely, if the diagnostics ring true, the thermostat is stuck open. This is easy to verify. We have a test mode built into our electronic odometer that can help you monitor engine temp more precisely than the gauge. Here's how to do it: Key off, hold down the odo reset button, turn key to ON, continue to hold odo reset. The gauges will jump up and down, and the odo will read [test], now each time you press and release the odo reset button you'll scroll through one of 30 test functions. You're looking for the odo to read [15 C] or whatever temp makes sense for your vehicle at that time. Now start the engine without turning the key OFF. The odo will remain in test mode until you turn the key OFF. Drive normally and keep half an eye on the temp. You should see it rise up to about 92C, and then fall back down to 70 or 80 C as the thermostat opens. The cycle will continue until you maintain an engine temp around 90C which is your thermostat temp IIRC. It might be above that, but that would be normal. What would not be normal- and a sign of a stuck open thermostat- is for your temp to never cycle, and just warm up slowly over about 20 mins of highway driving to 70 or 80C. I'm sorry the readout is in C, but that's the breaks. At least you can watch it and see if the thermostat is actually doing it's job.
As far as changing it- you'll first have to figure out which thermostat you have. There are 2- one with a sensor, and one without. Then you'll have to get the part which, if you have the sensor, is about $120. You'll also need an intake manifold gasket, and coolant to refill the system of what you lose. The thermostat is on the front side of the engine at the top of the lower radiator hose- exactly the opposite place you'd think it was if you're used to working on cast iron engines. You'll need a mechanic's mirror to check and see if you have the sensor. The thermostat will be directly under the intake runner for cyl #1. Mine doesn't have the sensor, so I can't tell you anything except you'll see wires coming out of the plastic thermostat housing.
Unfortunately, these cars don't have a simple replaceable thermostat like we're used to. That's part of the reason why, if I were you, I'd want to verify that the thermostat was bad, and someone's diagnostics weren't bad instead. Even if you do this yourself, you're looking at $200ish in parts if you have the sensor, and $100 or so if you don't.
All these prices are based on RockAuto's thermostat price. We do get a discount, but do double check. It costs nothing except maybe a little time to figure out the difference between a temp in C and a temp in F.
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