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Old 04-20-2013, 10:44 AM   #71
jimbaldwin1137
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Very cool! http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/i...smile_wave.gif

All the parts you suggested arrived yesterday and today I am attempting the impossible:
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/i...e_wrenchin.gif

I will keep you posted as to how this story pans out: http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/i...mile_dunno.gif
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Old 04-20-2013, 10:50 AM   #72
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Good deal - definitely let us know how it turns out. I suspect you won't be able to use the new switch unless you find a dealer willing to re-program the BCM - hopefully, you can find one to do so. If needed, it shouldn't be hard to wire in a couple of relays so the fogs are on whenever the headlights and ignition is on, though.
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Old 04-20-2013, 12:39 PM   #73
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In the process and its lunch time ... So far I've dropped the bonnet on the underside of the car to get to the fog light holes. The black plastic inserts popped right out. Its amazing that they stay in. Seems that maybe wind pressure is what holds them there. I had to add some OEM snap in nuts to the small square holes that already were willing to accept them. There are 2 nuts per side (I ordered 8 thinking that since the fog lights have 4 holes there would be 4 nuts. They snapped in as if there were some force pushing them in there (me, but, they fit great). The lights and bezels followed without any problems.

There was a little confusion when it got to the cable so I had to go get some higher power glasses to see what was really going on there. There exists an existing plug from the factory which is located right next to the drivers side fog light. At first I thought I could just plug the OEM fog light cable right into it. On closer look there was some sort of plug that had female pins on the outside (which looks like you could just plug right into it). It had to be removed since it is apparently there only to keep garbage out of the real female plug and to attach it to the body. Once that was removed (you need to lift a tab to separate it from the other plug), the new OEM cable for the fog lights slipped right in. The other connectors on the end of the cable connected right up to the fog lights without any problem as well. It should be noted that connectors on the fog lights face downward.

The new OEM Ford Fog light cable has a ton of those push-in connectors for connecting to existing holes which I am trying to locate right now on the Internet. So, I can't exactly say where they go as yet. I'm also taking a lunch break, so, I'll be back shortly.
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Old 04-20-2013, 01:13 PM   #74
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Hmmn - really we should have either added the install to Chaddz3's thread or started a new thread on this, but I'll let a mod determine this.

If you look at Chaddz3's thread http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=290882 - there should only be four wires in the new added harness (two brown wires for power to each fog), and two wires other wires for ground to each fog. Not sure where the ground ends on the existing harness, but the brown power wires should go back to the BCM (http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/s...2&postcount=19) - C2280D, pins 18 and 19.
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Old 04-20-2013, 02:11 PM   #75
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So far no issues connecting cables as everything is there for the hook up as far as the connectors go. The little plug-in connectors that I am referring to are not the electrical connections. They are the retaining connectors that hold the fog light cable in place securely so there is no movement. There are a lot of them that came on the new cable and they are placed anywhere from 4" to 6" apart. I am not seeing any holes that match up with them in any of bonnets or support frame. I am guessing there are a lot of them so you can find something close and snap it in there. Still investigating this. Worst case I will use what I can and then add some plastic ties wherever there may be some excess.
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Old 04-20-2013, 02:18 PM   #76
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Okay - Chaddz3, didn't use the factory harness, so he just tied into the radio support shroud - those little clips shouldn't be critical though (but it makes sense to do it correctly).
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Old 04-20-2013, 06:17 PM   #77
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OK. Finished everything including the new switch which seems to work fine with all pre-existing functions (trunk, interior light dimmer, headlights (auto, manual, etc.)). I will say this ... the switch was the tricky part. To get the old switch out I had to remove the surrounding plastic bezel which holds in the A/C vent right above the switch then remove the bezel which surrounds the switch, disconnect cable from switch by inserting a screw driver into connector release tab to release from other connector, pull out old switch, insert new switch into the plastic surround, attach cable, reinsert assembly with switch and put back the surrounding plastic bezel which holds in the A/C vent right above the switch.

Of course I tried the fog lights and as expected they don't work, but, they look better than black holes. Guess I'll go to the dealer and let him know that they are broke. Should be under warranty, right? Seriously, the service guy said this would not be a problem, but, we'll see when they actually try to program it.
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Old 04-20-2013, 06:27 PM   #78
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One more thought ... I was thinking that if this is something that a dealer isn't going to be flexible on that the next step is to check where the wires come out the back of the new switch with a volt meter. If you get 12 volts from one of the wires when the fog light switch is turned on and 0 volts when it is off, you just might be able to attach a wire via scotch locks to that wire and run it to a relay that you could patch into the OEM harness (making sure not to leave it connected to the existing harness that goes to the BCM). You get to maintain the look of having an OEM switch which operates the fog lights and use the OEM harness. Nothing lost by having had ordered the parts.

Last edited by jimbaldwin1137; 04-20-2013 at 08:35 PM.
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Old 04-21-2013, 06:08 AM   #79
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I'm hoping you were joking about the warranty part.

As far as your other question. No - read the other thread. It's a data switch. You could MAYBE disassemble the switch and figure out how to wire in a microswitch to activate the fog lights to a relay, but the only thing you gain over Chaddz3's wiring is that you activate/deactivate the lights via the OEM switch location rather than an added toggle switch. (You still don't get the instrument panel indicator that the lights are on).

I'm hoping the dealer comes through and it works out for you!!!
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Old 04-21-2013, 12:57 PM   #80
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Of course I'm joking. My other friends from Georgia seem to get my humor and semantics.

All kidding aside, one would gain in using ALL the parts (the OEM cable, the OEM switch and the OEM lights you originally suggested which I purchased per your advice) which are useless at this point unless the dealer programs the BCM. I'm still investigating the switch. If anyone could post a wiring diagram of the output (voltage or data) of the pins going to and coming from the BCM to the switch, that would be extremely helpful. Seems difficult to find it on the Internet at this point of 2013 FoFo newness.

I will say this ...
There are 6 pins on the back of the switch that are responsible for sending signals (whether they are data or electric - again semantics) to the BCM. Coincidently, those 6 pins are responsible for reporting to the BCM the following SIX functions:
1. Headlight configuration - automatic
2. Headlight configuration - manual on
3. Headlight configuration - manual off
4. interior dimmer control
5. trunk opener
6. fog lights (optional)

"Data", I am assuming (i know the joke about when you assume) in this case (but don't take my word for it until you have other evidence), is an electrical signal (1-on 0-off) to the BCM. If when the fog light switch is depressed and the signal (data or electrical) to anyone of those pins is a constant 12 volts when on and a constant 0 volts when off then you are probably golden. You also need to check and see if the voltages on the other pins remain constant. If, as you have suggested, it is a true data switch, there would have to be some kind of intelligence in the switch to actually send a data signal that consists of 1's and 0's (across one or more of those pins) that is not a constant voltage. My guess is that there is no such intelligence in the switch since it would involve a separate processor and at $33.90 (from Wholesale Ford Parts) I would imagine the signals are just electrical without encoding of data of any kind. It would still be interesting to know how it works and what is actually being considered "data". In looking at the switch, I think it would be easily destroyed trying to make the fog light button portion of the switch activate an aftermarket contact switch. Still trying to stay OEM and utilize what I already purchased as much possible. When there's a will ...

Last edited by jimbaldwin1137; 04-21-2013 at 06:25 PM.
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