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Old 09-05-2012, 07:05 PM   #1
TerryB
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P0133, car won't stay running

I'll probably forget some stuff because I'm pretty upset right now.
To make a long story short. I have a P0133 code.
Now the long version. Driving home from work which is about 10 miles from home. My car started to stutter on mild acceleration. It started as a slight skip, then into a stalling problem. It also seemed to rev high until it shifted (automatic). I wasn't watching the RPM's, but I'd say it was bad getting around 2000 RPM. Then soon after it started to stall out. I couldn't even leave a traffic light without stalling. It would restart right away and if I revved it in neutral, it seemed fine. As soon as I put it in drive and touched the gas, it konked right out. I looked like an idiot that couldn't get out of first with a manual tranny. I had to get the RPM's up to 2500 and put it in drive. The only other way was to barely touch the gas until it stated to roll, then baby it up to speed. The only tool I have is an Ultragauge. That showed me the P0133 code. The easiest thing to do was purchase an O2 sensor. I blasted the car up and down the driveway, and it seemed fine. Then I took it for a ride. About 500' down the road it skipped once, but stayed running. It drove okay for about 3 miles and the trouble returned. It seemed much worse this time. I had to restart three times to get away from a stop sign. There was alot of traffic and I just tried to get the hell out everyone's way. After reading numerous threads about the P0133, I tried the following fixes. I have limited tools, so I could only try so much.
1 new o2 sensor ( Bosch shouldn't matter, same issue ). checked for loose. chafed, or frayed wiring
2 cleaned MAF
3 checked for vacumn leaks with propane tank
4 exhaust system is tight, no leaks
5 check resistance at fuel injectors, 2 at 16.4, 2 at 16.5. within range
6 swore at it, threw some tools, that never works
Maybe a coincidence, but if it sits for awhile it seems okay. I let it idle for about 10 minutes and ran it up and down the driveway. I was giving it plenty of gas too, no problem. But I'm really leery about taking it out in traffic again.


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Old 09-06-2012, 09:39 AM   #2
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Many things will cause that code

Blown o2 fuse ( with key on engine off check for voltage to the o2 sensor with it unplugged )
bad ground to the o2 (same as above)
vac leak (look for lines off , cracked , if you get a garden hose about 4-5 feet long , one end to your ear the other to the engine and around you can hear a cricket fart , if you had a cricket farting on your engine lol)

If you can barrow a xcal from a fellow FF member I will be glad to look at a log

Tom
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Old 09-06-2012, 01:28 PM   #3
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I knew I'd forget something. I did check the fuses and peeled back the tape and covering on the O2 wiring. Also, it did something similar about 3 weeks ago. It didn't want to shift up to drive and RPM's went to about 3000. I never run the car like that. Maybe 2700 tops. When that happened, I figured it was the usual hard right turn low fuel problem. I filled the tank right after that, and it was fine. I have no access an x-cal at all. I'll go over the vac lines again. It shouldn't matter, but I've been running an OBX downpipe for about a year. Never had any problems.
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Old 09-06-2012, 01:50 PM   #4
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I would ask in your area forum and see if anyone has a xcal

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Old 09-10-2012, 03:22 AM   #5
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I'm not sure if I solved anything. After doing some cleaning as mentioned above, I found the problematic collapsed rear PCV hose on Saturday. I rigged some elbows and hosing I had lying around and it seemed to be running alot better. I won't receive the replacement hose until early this week. I only took it for a short ride today and the was no stalling or stumbling. I had nobody around to help me out incase I got stuck somewhere. I don't knoow if the hose would have triggered the CEL. It is part of the vacumn system. We'll see.
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Old 09-10-2012, 04:00 AM   #6
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While your at check the PCV valve too. Take it out and shake it. If it don't rattle then it needs replaced. It's a cheap part too. I had a bad Idle problem a while back with the combination of replacing the PCV valve, crank position sensor, and Idle air control valve the issue went away.

I made a video of what my car was doing.

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Old 09-10-2012, 05:14 AM   #7
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The dreaded PCV again, oh the humanity of it all.

Hey, at least you don't have fumble taps to contend with- that's my new name for tumble flaps, a Dtec problem. I am looking forward to possibly purchasing inexpensive 05+ models on the used market some day with valve train noise that can't be fixed the way I used to look forward to finding GM 2.5 FWDs with rod knocks that couldn't be fixed.
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Old 09-10-2012, 01:48 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ranger_mclaren View Post
While your at check the PCV valve too. Take it out and shake it. If it don't rattle then it needs replaced. It's a cheap part too. I had a bad Idle problem a while back with the combination of replacing the PCV valve, crank position sensor, and Idle air control valve the issue went away.

I made a video of what my car was doing.

Click Me for Video
The idle never was really off at all. But, the car just didn't "feel" right or "sound" right. Normally, if I drop from D to 2nd, I get a little popping from the exhaust. This was doing it in park or neutral in the driveway. Not alot, but I could hear it. I'm gonna go out and play in a little bit. The new hose was shipped from rockauto today. The PCV valve is okay. i did the rattle and air test.
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