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Old 09-07-2012, 01:28 PM   #1
WrinkledCheese
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Alternator Wiring Diagram

Hello all,

I have a service book at home with wiring diagrams but I don't have it with me. I need a wiring diagram, preferably full diagram, but the charging circuit diagram may be all I need.

I bought an '01 Ford Focus with an alternator issue. Turns out it was a rocker panel, alternator, battery, wheel bearing, rear brake shoes, rear lower front straight arm(tow link) issue, but that's beside the point.

I bought a second hand alternator from an SPI engine with supposedly only 5 months use - it was still that silvery new car part with what looked like the starting of corrosion - and replace the components into the casing for the Zetec engine and that seemed to resolve my alternator issue, for about 1,000 km.

I also had to repair the pigtail as the centre(grey) wire - that doesn't seem to have the red rubber seal in the connector on any Ford Focus' I've seen - had corroded away.

I bought a brand new ACDelco alternator and replaced the alternator again. I drove ~3200 km since I bought the car and it has gone through two alternators.

I drove the car about 5 hours for 400km and about 150km into the drive I noticed that when the car was going uphill at 4k RPM the lights in the dash and headlights would dim. However, the battery light only came on once for about 30 seconds. Once I made it to the city I had driven about 100km and the battery light had come on again. It stayed on for about 50km and then it went away for about 100km. Then it started going on and off and on and off. My battery died and now it's charging on a battery charger I bought from Canadian Tire for $40 6A 12V.

I need to make a drive back home in the next few days and I'm hoping to get this fixed by then. Where can I find diagrams?

[EDIT]
I forgot to mention that once I started having issues with the alternator I rebuilt I hooked up digital multimeter to the battery POS and NEG terminals and turned it on when I got in the vehicle. The battery was always at 12V off and varied while running. It usually ran around 14V-15V - ie 14.06 to 14.91V - however sometimes it would drop down to above 12V and when the battery light was on for a while the charge would slowly dip below 12V. The lowest I've seen it was ~11.5V I took the volt meter off when I replaced the alternator so I don't have any data for the new alternator.

[EDIT2]
I've been doing a little more reading and I think it might be worth mentioning that the idel of the vehicle seems to be wonky. It will drop from about 750 to 500, mostly at idle, and then stop after it has done so a few times. When the battery light is on, this does not happen.


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Old 09-07-2012, 02:37 PM   #2
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I can't copy paste it, so here it goes:

The alt has:
B+ terminal--goes to battery (may be direct; or may be to starter, then to battery)
#1 terminal, grey wire, goes to PCM terminal 59
#2 terminal, blue wire, goes to PCM terminal 72
#3 terminal, red wire, goes to fuse #10 at battery junction box, this is hot all the time
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Old 09-08-2012, 02:23 PM   #3
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Could someone provide me with circuit 30-BB10? I have the diagrams at home but that's 400km from where I am and I need to get back there.

I don'e have wires long enough to check the ECU vs alternator. However I found some other information online.

8th Post

http://autoforums.carjunky.com/Autom...placed_P34404/

At the point where I'm checking B+ to Battery + terminal < 0v5 it is intermittent overloading 2V and during normal operation it is ~0v1. You can hear the difference in the engine running when this happens so it's not the meter, which is a brand new Digital Multimeter.

A6 CHECK BATTERY FEED TO THE GENERATOR
Measure the voltage between the generator C102c B+ terminal, circuit 30-BA6 (RD), harness side and ground.

Is the voltage equal to the battery voltage?
Yes < sometimes
GO to A7.

No
REPAIR circuit 30-BA6 (RD) or circuit 30-BB10 (RD). TEST the system for normal operation.

I suspect I need to check both circuit BA6(B+ to battery circuit) and circuit BB10. I suspect my issue is in BB10 since it seems that at times the battery light comes on and off at the same time the running behaviour changes, sometimes the running behaviour changes and the light doesn't come on.

From what I read, this could be - this is entirely speculative - because BB10 is not working properly. I believe the IAC is what is causing the engine to shudder when the generator comes on and the IAC needs cleaning/replacing. I also think that I could find a bad wire if I knew what BB10 is.

Could someone provide me with circuit 30-BB10?
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Old 09-08-2012, 04:28 PM   #4
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I checked pins 72 and 59 and they are both < 10 ohm resistance.
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Old 09-08-2012, 04:31 PM   #5
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Circuit 30-BB10 is the red wire from fuse #10 at the battery junction box to pin 3 of the alternator connector.
A couple of links that might help:
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/s...=240870&page=2 Post #17
http://www.justanswer.com/ford/2e4q8...lternator.html
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Old 09-08-2012, 04:52 PM   #6
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Thanks. I will check the things you posted. I only checked fuse F10 in the BJB for connectivity using an ohm meter. There was 0.2 ohms of resistance, and you know what they say:

Resistance is futile .... if < 1 ohm. This is probably the resistance produced by the ohm meter leads and meter circuitry...and maybe a little from the fuse.

[EDIT]
Hmm smart charging you say? Silver Calcium you say. I suppose the Lead Acid battery out of my Jeep isn't going to work...

I will get a new battery and see if that doesn't resolve my issue. ...by new I mean try and find a used one.

http://www.petercoopercarrepairs.co....t_charging.htm

[EDIT2]
I checked pins 52 and 79...no 59 and 72 of the ECU and there is perfect continuity.

Last edited by WrinkledCheese; 09-08-2012 at 06:41 PM.
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Old 09-08-2012, 08:01 PM   #7
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I also noticed that the red wire from the 3-pin connector isn't hot all the time. It's the same voltage as at the battery most the time, but it seems from time to time that it will drop down to 1v. I suspect this might be an issue with the Lead Acid battery in place of the Silver Calcium battery.
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Old 09-08-2012, 08:35 PM   #8
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Despite what's stated in the link, I do not believe the specs for the Focus battery are any different from any other car battery i.e. standard lead acid. While your battery may possibly need attention, I wouldn't go paying extra for some exotic type.
First thing I'd do is to simply bypass the wiring harness on that particular circuit (run another wire with a fusible link) and see if that solves the fluctuating voltage. It may be as simple as a chafed, crimped or broken wire or corroded connections at the BJB. If you still don't see a consistent 12V, then something else is amiss.
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Old 09-09-2012, 02:59 PM   #9
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How long is a normal operating time for an alternator.

I have to limp it home - 400km/250mi. It seems when the car is cold the alternator works enough to get it somewhere. I noticed the battery light does come on sometimes when the alternator is charging the battery.

There seems to be a few voltages while the vehicle is running.
16v, 15v, 14v7, 14v, 13.8v and 12v-13v From what I've read about this smart charge system above normal voltages is normal for when the alternator detects a low battery voltage.

I have more tools and equipment at home to do this. I don't even have a jack or axel stands to get underneath the car.
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