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Old 09-06-2012, 08:44 AM   #11
KyleQ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ah1f39 View Post
Use the propper connectors and you don't need to cut anything.
Scotch locks are THE DEVIL - nobody who knows two shits about anything would use those on something they cared about.

If you are talking about something else, I apologize, I just hate finding those damn things...
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Old 09-09-2012, 06:53 PM   #12
Heining17
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UHm Help?... again

SO, We got the sub working now.. but of course with A LOT of effort..
We kinda screwed things up or didnt know another option so we had to draw power from the b pillar somewhere and we had to use a switch.. which is in the trunk :( ... why we didnt draw power from ignition is beyond me BUT WHATEVER. NOW HERES THE TROUBLE: The fuse for SYNC blew so we had to replace it. Is that normal? Will my car like catch on fire or explode lol. The amp i have is very small.. I know its less then 150 watts. and the sub is a real cheap dual one from walmart. All i wanted was a little extra oompph but this making me loose my mind. All im really sure of is that I need someone to tell me everything is ok lmao.
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Old 09-09-2012, 07:52 PM   #13
Kipp
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you got power from where?

fuse probably blew while fixing the cut wires. assuming everything is put back together properly and secured it shouldn't be an issue.
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Old 09-09-2012, 09:24 PM   #14
Heining17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kipp View Post
you got power from where?

fuse probably blew while fixing the cut wires. assuming everything is put back together properly and secured it shouldn't be an issue.
The fuse box in the drivers side b pillar.. Im going to try and switch to the igniton power wire because i hate having to switch it off when im done driving.
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Old 09-12-2012, 03:42 PM   #15
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There is few wires under the driver dash that are SWitched source when the car ignition is "ON", not ACC. I have my power for my boost/Air fuel Gauge coming from there. I suggest taking a test light or multimeter and finding one. It looks to be about 16 gauge wire where I had connected
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