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Old 08-29-2012, 02:36 AM   #1
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fuel pump does not come on for start

total novice at this.

2001 ZX3, less than 22K miles, i bought it new. never been worked on by anyone, except oil change. car runs fine when it runs but now FP does not cycle on to pressurize when ignition turned on. no start, of course. this is third time for this situation. self-recovered twice before. so i'm convinced the FP is good, just not getting a modulated ground signal from the FPDM. the FP fuse and FP relay seem to be fine (swapped relay into low beam position and it worked ok). question is: with no code reader, tools, or knowledge is there anything else i can check? fuel rail sensor? can the FPDM be tested by a shop if i remove it? i prefer to believe the prob is not in the PCM. this would cost more to replace than the value of the vehicle, almost.

what is the round thing on the firewall to which the fuel tank feed and return lines attach? it has an electric part on top. can something like this fail?

thanks for help. where can i find a good description of how all this works?

i may be a little slow responding, like a day or two.


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Old 08-29-2012, 11:21 PM   #2
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how to test fuel pump?

to recap: car ran fine until fp stopped priming for startup. so i want to test just the pump.

what if i ground directly the black wire returning from pump to fpdm. with ignition on engine off, the pump should run? this would just be a continuous ground without letting the fpdm modulate. if there is power to the fpdm and the module is passing it through to fp and fp is not dead, fp should run? or does it require a signal from pcm to let fpdm pass power thru to fp?

can it hurt anything to ground the black wire returning from fp to fpdm?
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Old 08-29-2012, 11:53 PM   #3
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Lots of info and wiring schematic in this thread:
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=295181
Provide 12v power directly to the pump as you suggest using pins indicated in wiring diagram.
Check the inertia switch operation as well (bypass it). Change the fuel filter if you can't remember the last time it was done.
To answer your question in the first post, that "round thing" on the firewall is part of the EVAP system (gas vapour emission control). It can fail but is unrelated to fuel pump operation.
Are you showing a CEL (Check Engine Light)?
Certain cars in the 2000-2001 production run were known for dodgy pumps. Have a dealer run your VIN to see if it's applicable. "Recall" period has expired (10 years, iirc, but it might help narrow down possible causes.)
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Old 08-30-2012, 11:04 AM   #4
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i think i tested the fp

thanks BC.

i have followed the thread you mentioned and prarie's conclusion. that's where i got the idea to ground the fp at the fpdm. so i gave it a try by jumpering the two grn/org wires which i think (per schematic) should let power bypass the fpdm on the way to the fp. (fpdm connection block disconnected). then grounded first one, then other of the two black wires. one of them is inert, i guess because it just goes to ground anyway. the other did complete a circuit(slight spark) but no reaction from fp. can you confirm there is no need to crank to get fp to run in this scenario? (since fp primes when ignition on w/o crank)

btw, if the above test showed there is power to the fpdm then i figure the inertia switch must be ok?

there was never a CEL when the vehicle was running. now, since it won't start i don't know if there would be one or not. this behavior happened twice before and both times self-corrected in a few minutes or a day. but there was never CEL.

will call a dealer about recall. i didn't hear about it, even though i bought the car new.

a clogged filter could cause the fp to lock up completely so it wouldn't even make a grunt or hum?? filter has never been changed. only 21k miles but 11 years old.

i've watched the 22 minute video reference by parie and noticed the person was always cranking when testing for the presence of electricty. why would you need to crank to see if elec. is getting to fp?

i can probably change the filter but it won't be easy with no tools/jacks. know of a good description of the process?
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Old 08-30-2012, 10:01 PM   #5
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i think i tested the fuel pump (2)

my previous post seems to have disappeared.

i called two ford dealers and they both said no fuel pump recall on my vin.

another thread mentioned that fp relay might be open even when there is power at the fpdm. if there is power at fpdm wouldn't a grounded pump have to run regardless of state of fp relay? could there be power at fpdm if the fp relay is open?

to repeat the lost post: i jumpered the two org/grn wires at fpdm (wire connector off fpdm) and grounded both blacks in turn. no sign of life from the fp. if there really is power at the fpdm and by jumpering org/grn i've connected the power to fp and grounded the correct black is no action in fp, doesn't that prove fp is bad?

can an fp go bad in just 21k miles?
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Old 08-30-2012, 11:08 PM   #6
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what is best way to test directly the fuel pump?

it occurs that maybe i didn't connect the right wires at fpdm. does what i described sound like the best method to test pump? is there a better way?

there never was a CEL even though this is third time pump has quit. this time it isn't coming back as it did the previous two times.

thanks for the help
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Old 09-01-2012, 11:15 AM   #7
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Apply 12V to the pump directly.
Referring to the diagram in the other thread, undo the connector between FPDM and pump. provide a good chassis ground on pin 3 and supply 12V to pin 10 of the unplugged FPDM connector - the one whose wires disappear into the floor. The plastic connectors sometimes have the pin numbers moulded into them or trace the exposed harness wire colours to the connector. I don't recall which part is male/female so you'll have to improvise if you haven't already figured it out.
Run a separate long wire directly from the battery to the connector if necessary and bypass the inertia switch, the relay, the ECU and the FPDM. The pump is simply a 12V electric motor. It'll either spin or it won't. You should be able to hear it spin obviously with 12V applied.
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Old 09-01-2012, 06:22 PM   #8
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ok here is a tip i get these on a daily basis. if you are getting 12v at the pump, then while someone is starting hit the side of the tank with a rubber hammer. if the car starts you know it is a bad pump as the plastic connecter on the pump it's self in the tank melts. causing a bad fuel pump.
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