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Old 07-18-2012, 10:24 PM   #11
indy_11
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go to ebay and type in focus switchback. there a plenty of prices but this is a example. it comes with the resistors already so you just splice, solder and bam new switchback turn signals

switchbacks
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Old 07-18-2012, 10:25 PM   #12
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o and here's the video as promised

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Old 07-19-2012, 07:19 AM   #13
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This is going to be really helpful once my switchbacks come in
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Old 07-19-2012, 08:07 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by champjfocus View Post
I thought you didnt have to solder or cut anything........
You don't have to but that means you are using the Vamp Clamp which can lead to corrosion (because of the exposed wires). Blueflow's way is better/will last longer, but you should use heat shrink instead of electric tape. And don't forget, if you are using heat shrink.... PUT THAT ON THE WIRE BEFORE YOU SOLDER! You don't want to have to pull your wiring apart because you forgot it.
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Old 07-19-2012, 08:20 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarderSauce View Post
You don't have to but that means you are using the Vamp Clamp which can lead to corrosion (because of the exposed wires). Blueflow's way is better/will last longer, but you should use heat shrink instead of electric tape. And don't forget, if you are using heat shrink.... PUT THAT ON THE WIRE BEFORE YOU SOLDER! You don't want to have to pull your wiring apart because you forgot it.
lol this^, I heatshrinked all of mine after soldering it last week. Before that I had the little t clamp things but they are not as reliable as a good soldered connection and I don't want to be on the road and a light stop working(=
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Old 07-19-2012, 08:51 AM   #16
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HA HA WTF Crice do you have a wireless resistor in there or something? I can't see where you soldered it in. Also what kind of heat shrink would you recommend/where did you get it. All I have used is the butt clamps you can heat shrink and don't know what brand of heat shrink works well. I assume anything from 3M would be good but I am not sure if they make any. THANKS!
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Old 07-19-2012, 09:05 AM   #17
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lol no i added in about 4" lengths of wire so that i had plenty to work with.
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Old 07-19-2012, 09:13 AM   #18
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Technically you really shouldn't have to solder anything as long as the wires are touching and you could just wrap that up with electrical tape and then shrink wrap it to make sure it holds still so the connection isn't moving around. I personally would solder it though.
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Old 07-19-2012, 10:39 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteezMuffin View Post
Technically you really shouldn't have to solder anything as long as the wires are touching and you could just wrap that up with electrical tape and then shrink wrap it to make sure it holds still so the connection isn't moving around. I personally would solder it though.
Lol I typically am not a big fan of shorts in wires, Small electrical fires, damage to electrical components caused by surges from a short, etc.

haha Don't waste your time doing to wrong the first time when with an added two minutes it will be a flawless long-life proper connection(= thats my mindset on it.
My previous vehicle I learned my lesson in this as all electronic components in a car are linked in some way or another. A small short in a wire for an aux light can cause major damage to other things(=
Walmart has a cheap solder iron for right under $6 and solder for $1. Heat shrink is cheap and it doesn't matter really what brand you use. You don't have to have a heat gun by any means. A lighter works perfectly for shrinking it(=

Also spending less than $10 on these items is totally worth it! You will find all of the little things car and home related that are done much better and more reliable with these few items(=

(Sorry i'm on a study cram and adderall and redbull have me going 90 to nothing on FF haha noone is here to discuss the test we have in 20 mins yet. I think my typing speed is like 150wpm right now haha ever seen limitless? )
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Old 07-19-2012, 12:01 PM   #20
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Let me add to this.


For NON factory intakes you will not need to remove your headlights.


There is plenty of room for the driver side to access it if you have aftermarket intake


As for the passenger I found it plenty easier to just remove the coolant overflow tank and just move it aside to gain access to the passenger side.

Solder is the best and safest way to have a good connection. You can use the quick connects or use the same procedure similar as this but not solder the connections and just use heat shrink to hold it.


Here's a tip about soldering:

Let the bare copper wire get hot then touch the solder on the heat gun and it should connect the wires very well.



Edit:


It's amazing how fast these switchbacks got popular with us 2nd gen. =] I started this trend and I still love my switchbacks.
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