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Old 08-24-2013, 12:59 AM   #121
joe8282
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Fog Light Installation

First I would like to say that Chaddz3's detailed description of his fog light installation is by all means impressing. For someone take the time eloquently and in detail share his installation experience deserve a big thumbs up!

After reading Chaddz3's tread I went out to check my daughter's 2014 Ford Focus SE. Yeap! Sure thing there was an empty space in fuse slot F75. Looking very closely I did not see any metal connection that would hold the fuse.

So, what I decided to do buy a set of fog lights from www.blinglights.com. Follow the example of some Australian guy on YouTube (see below link) who came up with an ingenious way to install the fog lamps using some plastic pipe tubing to create an excellent protective housing for the lamps. Then he just use some epoxy to glue the plastic pipe tubing to the back of the bezel since he could not use the bracket supplied by blinglights.com. Once the pipe tubing was in place, he simply slide the lamp in and secured both sides of the lamp to the pipe tubing with provided screws. Then just snap the bezel in place with the fog lamp. Unfortunately, he wasn't as detail as Chaddz3 and did not show how he did the wiring.

I will just take the car to my pals at CarToys and they already said they will do all the wiring installation. And this way I will be done with it.

Focus 2012 installing fog/driving lights - YouTube

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DeOEs4RQZpY
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Old 08-26-2013, 07:04 AM   #122
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Quote:
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And this way I will be done with it.
You can do that, but it seems LIKE a HUGE amount of work compared to Chaddz3's method - unless you REALLY want Xenon fogs instead of OEM.

The lights that Chadd uses are $80 vs. $99 for Blinglights -ends up being the same price with the harness, but you don't have to cut up any PVC piping.

You have to buy the bezels either way.

You probably have to run wire from the interior to the bumper on a 2014 which Chadd didn't on a 2012, but that's not a huge deal.

You can simplify his wiring with two relays without the epoxy holder and then you don't need cartoys ...
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Old 09-18-2013, 04:12 AM   #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaddz3 View Post
3. You should now see the Body Control Module and all its wiring.. (Notice the High quality factory taping job Ford did when building the harnesses).



4. Remove Connector C2280G FIRST (it has the big fat red and yellow wires)
at the top of the connector is a black lever looking thing... just pull up on
it as you ease the connector toward you... Using a 10-12 Gauge T-Tap,
Splice a 14 Gauge Red Wire to the Big fat Red 10 Gauge wire in the
connector. (Position #2). Put a fully insulated female blade terminal on the other end of the wire and connect it to the BATT Terminal of the Fog Control Module. Do NOT reconnect this connector to the BCM yet.

Hey Chaddz3, Got two questions for you. Im trying to locate some place inside the car to grab power from. Unfortunately, I may need more than the 10amps that an add-a-circuit can supply. Is the red wire on BCM connector C2280G fused at any point, or is it an unrestricted battery feed? My other question is, isnt the yellow wire thats also on that same connector an ignition feed wire? IE: if i were wanting a location where i could tap both constant hot and ignition hot at the same place... Thanks for your help.
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Old 09-19-2013, 12:21 PM   #124
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I'm having the same problem with BCM not triggering lights and have given up on that option. I had bought the factory switch with front fog light button.
While there isn't much space in the switch I intend to use it to trigger an electronic touch relay which basically triggers the relay on or off with a touch pad button( Like the one inside the switch). Once I receive the parts I'll post outcome / pictures. It should alleviate tapping into the bcm wiring and I'll get to be able to use factory switch for facrory look. Hopefully!!
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Old 10-24-2013, 09:05 PM   #125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheHumbleGeek View Post
Hey Chaddz3, Got two questions for you. Im trying to locate some place inside the car to grab power from. Unfortunately, I may need more than the 10amps that an add-a-circuit can supply. Is the red wire on BCM connector C2280G fused at any point, or is it an unrestricted battery feed? My other question is, isnt the yellow wire thats also on that same connector an ignition feed wire? IE: if i were wanting a location where i could tap both constant hot and ignition hot at the same place... Thanks for your help.
Both Wires in 2280G are Hot at all times, both are fused at the main battery junction fuse block near the battery, Both are fused at 50 AMPS. the red wire i used is tied to MEGA FUSE 4 and the Yellow is tied to MEGA FUSE 9. The only ignition feed wire i could find was the blue wire in C2280D that I tapped my ign feed relay into. Hope this helps, sorry about taking so long to respond, havent been on the forum for a while...
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Old 10-25-2013, 07:54 AM   #126
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Both Wires in 2280G are Hot at all times, both are fused at the main battery junction fuse block near the battery, Both are fused at 50 AMPS. the red wire i used is tied to MEGA FUSE 4 and the Yellow is tied to MEGA FUSE 9. The only ignition feed wire i could find was the blue wire in C2280D that I tapped my ign feed relay into. Hope this helps, sorry about taking so long to respond, havent been on the forum for a while...
THANKS! I dont mind the delay, as the info you provided just answered some questions i had regarding where i can pull power from. Ill have to check those two to make sure they have enough overhead left on the fuses to allow power taps without blowing anything. Just wish ford hadn't decided on power monitoring for the on-board electronics...

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Old 11-04-2013, 03:47 PM   #127
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Just wish ford hadn't decided on power monitoring for the on-board electronics...
Could you explain a bit more what you mean by this?
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Old 11-04-2013, 05:20 PM   #128
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Could you explain a bit more what you mean by this?
Sure! The MK3 focus is equipped with an on-board voltage and wattage monitoring system, as part of the retained power & lighting systems. This power monitoring system allows the car to provide notice via the IPC display if there is a burned out bulb or other lighting fault which causes either a reduced or increased load. It also allows things like the cigarette lighter, interior lights and radio to continue to operate, even with the ignition off and no key present. The car will monitor the power and should the power drop to the point that vehicle starting could begin to be affected, it will shut everything off (at least, thats my understanding from reading the manual).

If i have misunderstood something and someone else can clarify it for me, they are most welcome to do so.

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Old 11-05-2013, 07:02 AM   #129
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I guess my real question is what (if any) effect this has on adding fog lights ...
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Old 11-05-2013, 07:05 AM   #130
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Theoretically, none... However, given that i was asking about places in the car to draw larger power loads (over 10amps), it would affect how I proceed.

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