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Old 06-03-2013, 08:51 AM   #111
redzone
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do you think adding a relay is such a manner would cause a volt drop? im sure the relay would have some resistance but i would think it would be very minor.

This is all theoretical for me cause i cant see adding them untill im out of the 3 year warranty which is in 3 years! lol.

well if no one else has tried by then i will find out !
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Old 06-03-2013, 09:00 AM   #112
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I wouldn't worry about the relay adding a voltage drop, but I don't know what the "trigger" wire for the main headlight relay is.

That said, Chaddz3 has an elegant solution for the 2012 S that would also work for the 2013 SE.

Your method only saves one relay, a switch, and a few splices over his method.

I.e. - if you used his method and left the switch in the ON position at all time (or didn't bother with the switch), the fogs come on when the ignition is running and the parking lights are active.

The only advantage to your solution would be if you ONLY wanted fogs when the headlights are on and NOT when the parking lights only were on. That might be your intention, but I don't think the factory lights work that way (i.e. factory lights, you would have to manually turn them on with the headlights and then off with the parking lights if you wanted to do that).
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Old 07-14-2013, 11:15 PM   #113
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Could I just tap them into my headlamps without adding a relay? I would only want them on when I have my lights on at night or in the rain.
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Old 07-15-2013, 07:28 AM   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fmoose View Post
Could I just tap them into my headlamps without adding a relay? I would only want them on when I have my lights on at night or in the rain.
You can, but I wouldn't recommend it.

However, if you just want them to come on and off with your headlights, you could use the headlight trigger wire to activate the relay and do all your wiring under the hood without needing to install a toggle switch.
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Old 08-01-2013, 06:01 PM   #115
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Absolutely great write up!
I'm looking forward to do this to my 2013 Focus S
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Old 08-05-2013, 06:36 AM   #116
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Not sure if 2013's have the BCM to bumper wiring installed, but yes, the guide should be a great help overall.
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Old 08-11-2013, 08:04 PM   #117
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The only way to make the 2013 SE BCM run the fogs (assuming you already have a high level BCM to begin with) is to have both the Volvo and DET engineering software to properly reprogram and flash the BCM. You will need a Ford engineer to do this. No if and or buts. Only other option is the previously documented stand alone wiring system and toggle switch. I've been chasing this issue since last Thanksgiving and finally got in touch with the right people to make it happen. As most of you already know, VERY frustrating!!!
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Old 08-11-2013, 08:09 PM   #118
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I was thinking in two possibilities
1. Tap the fog lights into the headlamps wire with some kind of relay, so if I turn the HL on the FL will go on too.
2. Tap them to the battery and ground, using a toggle switch.

Warranty issues?
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Old 08-11-2013, 08:15 PM   #119
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An ST owner modified his Foglights to always come on with power, and to switch off with high beams. He bypassed his original switch and harnesses so his custom build relays and harness would be powering his fogs. I would assume this option would work for people that don't have factory fog lights.

If you google search "ford focus constant fog" it should be the top link. He as pictures and a diagram of his relay setup.

https://www.google.com/search?q=ford...hrome&ie=UTF-8
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Old 08-12-2013, 07:20 AM   #120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CunFFS13 View Post
I was thinking in two possibilities
1. Tap the fog lights into the headlamps wire with some kind of relay, so if I turn the HL on the FL will go on too.
2. Tap them to the battery and ground, using a toggle switch.

Warranty issues?
People get confused on warranty issues.

Technically, the dealer can only deny coverage if your action caused the warranty issue.

So if you tap into the HL and you get a HL out warning, the dealer can refuse to fix it or just disconnect your wiring to make the light go out.

Now - in reality - the dealer can look under the hood and see a bunch of quick-splices and CLAIM that that is what caused your oil pump to quit working and deny the claim and then you have to find another dealer or go to small claims court (or escalate it to a regional manager) to prove that it should be covered.

General rule is a warranty is only worthwhile to the level that the company is willing to stand behind it.

Key example would be a road hazard warranty on tires - some places will say if you hit a curb, it was a road hazard and will cover it, and some places will say a nail in the tire was caused by you driving in a construction area and would not be covered.
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