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Old 01-06-2013, 06:51 PM   #21
amc49
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Until you have positively replaced the PCV line at rear of motor that goes directly to the intake do not post you have checked or replaced all the vacuum lines. Way too many do and have not a clue about that line which is generally what does this. In fact, nothing personal, but I have found that many if not most people simply do not have the ability to fully check all vacuum lines/leak points, but they sure say they do and by so doing box themselves into the impossible to solve scenario that has them replacing way too many parts for absolutely no reason at all. Even though it hurts to use it (me, anyway), your brain power is so much cheaper than unneeded parts that do nothing.

No need for smoke test, the EVAP system will post a CEL pretty quick if there is a leak, if no light then no leak. Of course it's your money..........I could easily simply block the entry to intake from EVAP, screw any lights set and simply see if the idle cures. How hard is that?

You can realtime measure the sensor one upstream O2 to see if it reads low/not switching at warm idle, that is the indicator of vacuum leak. Regardless of whether you are SURE you checked them all.

And yes, it is very curious how many think the engine is not running right when on these cars all that's wrong is bad mounts. Shows how hard it is for many to tell the difference in bad running and bad vibration, two different things. Or they buy the crap mounts and then since they changed them are again in that impossible to solve scenario previously mentioned.
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Old 01-06-2013, 10:38 PM   #22
cyfocus01
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I see lots of new post since I was here last, so...

Was in same boat. Did plugs, wires when got car. Helped, was needed anyway- was a factory orriginal 138,xxx when I got it. Then I replaced infamous PVC hose. Better, no stall out but still not perfect. Over thanksgiving, it got a timing belt and water pump- o-ring Leaking on pump. Still no change.

So, I had a good idle, good top end, but stutter and hessitation off line, random chug at most rmp, but it hated below 2,500 for the most part. Then right before x-mas, I lost #2. Ran great on way home from work, 2hrs later a 3cyl zetec. So, I tested plugs and wires with no change. Put in a new coil, and BAMB! All is ok. Idles at 600-750 like butter, snappy with ZERO hessitation or stutter. Who'd a thunk.

Anyway, not saying that is your problem, but really never thought about it. Still amazed it only dropped #2 and #3 still fired. Its like a new car, sort of. Still has list of issues, but now it runs like a gyro and not a top. LOL!
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Old 03-21-2013, 10:13 AM   #23
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lower motor mount

i saw on youtube how to replace it and it was the problem i was having not a rough idle lot of people confuse it with that but its more like engine shaking whole car change that lower motor mount and u will see a change.
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Old 03-21-2013, 10:30 AM   #24
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Since the o.p. has done so much work already I may be beating a dead horse, but I have never really had luck cleaning an 02 sensor and I have actually made IAC valves worse by cleaning (yes even with the specified cleaners). My suggestion would be to replace the IAC and o2 sensors with new ones. At 170k miles, it wouldn't hurt. Even if it isn't the problem. They aren't that expensive and its a lot less troublesome than cleaning and doing all the other work you have gone through.
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Old 02-16-2014, 07:31 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mpcv2000 View Post
I've found the problem this morning.
There is a hose behind the intake ( Vacuum ) that when engine is warm ( hose is warm too ) the hose colaps on itself and the engine start running very rough and then die.
When I reset the ECU it gives time for the hose to cool down and retake it's shape.
When the engine does it , just grab the hose behind the intake and squeez it the other way it is collapsed and the motor will run like it should.
I have put a worm gear clamp over it so it doesn't collaps until I get the hose from Ford.

I had this issue with a 00 ZX3 a while back and I kind of forgot about this "infamous" vacuum hose collapsing on itself .
Omg! This was so easy to fix, that I feel silly now. After seeing your post about the collapsed hose was a pretty common thing that happens over time, my car has 160k miles on it. It just stood out after I raised the hood, you could see it! I replaced the end of the hose with a aftermarket 90 degree hose end-piece. $5.44 from the local auto store, and after installing it, it purred like a new car.

:)

Last edited by djack2112; 02-17-2014 at 11:42 PM. Reason: something additional, information wise
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Old 02-17-2014, 11:46 PM   #26
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One other thing though, my hose that was the issue is solid and very hard plastic of some sort, with rubber ends on it, in which, one end turns and attaches to the area by the backside of the cylinder head, and the other slides over an outlet that protrudes from the bottom side of the intake. It also has some sort of heat resistance rubber sheathing around it too. It does have a part number on it as well.
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Old 02-18-2014, 12:47 AM   #27
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djack2112 - there are actually TWO ventilation hoses on the engine, one from the air intake to the cyl. head area that supplies air to the engine & one from the PCV valve to the intake manifold that recycles crankcase vapors to be burned. It's a flow through system to work more effectively.
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Old 02-18-2014, 07:51 AM   #28
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Just recently fixed my problem.
Changed all 3 mounts back to Motorcraft (The autozone mounts were junk and the automatic didn't like the aftermarket dogbone) which made a huge difference.
But the real fix was.....the coil.
I wasn't getting a CEL but installing a new coil,car idles perfectly and made all the difference in the world.
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Old 02-18-2014, 09:42 AM   #29
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Ah, I see,...well that is good to know that there are two of the possible culprits. Thanks for the post. I just love being able to make minor fixes on my automobile, especially since I am disabled, and on a fixed income. I grew up in a auto/drag-racing garage, so I've been exposed to all sorts of autos, it now comes down to whether or not I can do it with my physical limitations.

thx sailor, :)

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Old 02-18-2014, 09:45 AM   #30
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A intermittent coil firing problem is always a big pain. In the past it would always seem to rear its ugly head at the wrong time, in which, evades being detected. But that would have been the second place I would have probably looked, if the vacuum hose hadn't fixed it.
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