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Old 06-05-2012, 03:09 PM   #1
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MTX-75 Luk Pro Gold Clutch and Power?

I have a Luk Pro Gold clutch (back when they still made it still for the MTZ-75) has about 40k miles on it by now (perhaps more??). friction material looks good and there are not hot spots on the FocusSport Alum flywheel I have.

I was planing on putting this clutch back in and using it for as long as I can before either needing a new clutch (due to ware or slipping from power).

I am not able to find a whole lot of info... and when I do a Google search all i come up with are my posts as I have this part in my signature.

Does any one know what the flywheel HP the LUK Pro Gold clutch can handle? Both when new and what it might have now... I can post pictures tonight of the friction plate and pad material if that helps at all also identify the condition of my clutch.

Thanks.


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Old 02-19-2013, 03:44 PM   #2
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Well I called LUK and they said that the Pro version usually is a 40-50% "safety" margin over the stock TQ rating. With about 120-130 WTQ this means the Pro should be able to handle 168 to 195 WTQ.

Looks like that will work for my initial plans but will definitely need to go to a stage 3-4 once I go boost (but guess I never expected to keep the Luk Clutch once I went FI).
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Old 02-19-2013, 04:21 PM   #3
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Remember the actual stock torque will vary from vehicle to vehicle. And the number you quoted will be lower than that actually. Most of the basically stock cars I have seen dynoed barely broke 110 TQ. Most of them falling under that mark. So that would move your margins down a little bit.
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Old 02-19-2013, 04:32 PM   #4
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Yes, thank you. The Pro Kit I think is a vanish vendor item, i. e. No longer made, and has been for a while... I just looked at the first few dyno charts in the stickie section. They ranged from 105 to 130. With 105-110 being stock and 125-130 having most of the available bolt-ons.
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Old 02-19-2013, 05:45 PM   #5
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Take note that some people who run the Jackson Racing Supercharger also run a stock clutch. If I remember right, the stock clutch could hold up to about 200 HP without slippage. Once you go beyond that threshold it's time to think about moving to the next stage up or higher depending on what your goal is. If all you are doing is having the basic bolt-ons, I wouldn't worry about upgrading the clutch. From what I have seen, you would be fine for now with the Luk Gold series.
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Old 02-19-2013, 06:20 PM   #6
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right, all these clutch companies say their clutches have a torque rating at such a percentage over stock. but that helps very little because we dont know for sure exactly how much the stock clutch will hold. why cant the bastards just say this clutch will hold so many ft/lbs/tq at the flywheel and make it easier on us? ive been fighting this battle for more than 2 months now trying to find the right clutch. any FYI my OE exedy clutch held up to a 125 shot of nitrous on a number of occasions with no slipping. that would put my torque around 230 so its anybody's guess.
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Old 02-19-2013, 06:28 PM   #7
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LUK would have had that information but I could not locate the kit part # for it. That is how they are able to look up the spec. So he said in general terms the regular Luk is usually 20-30% and the pro is 40-50%. If any one can locate the Luk Pro kit # I can call again and possibly find out their actual rating.

Guess its good to know the stock is good till about 200. And the Luk Pro from my readings when i bought it said it was better then stock it should perform well up to 200 ft lbs as well.
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Old 02-19-2013, 06:50 PM   #8
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my personal opinion on it is this. if you have the tranny out right now and you are planning for 250+, i would replace the clutch now. if you are planning to stay under 250 then i would leave the luk in it and run it till i start having problems because i would be willing to bet it can take 250ft/lbs if an OE clutch can almost handle as much.
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Old 02-19-2013, 07:41 PM   #9
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what about 300-350 Ft/Lbs? What stage would you recommend. I don't mind for a firm Clutch pedal.

A Stage 3-4? Would you still stay with a Sprung Hub? Puck style? it looks like it will be a NA build at this moment I am working on built to take a turbo once I get funds. I am just tired of my car sitting for the last 1.5 years and want it to at least move.

Also have the older Focus Sport Red Aluminum Fly wheel. That should still be good right? any good way to check? or just take to a machine shop? I guess I really should open a new thread about this as it is no longer talking about the Luk Pro Clutch.
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Old 02-19-2013, 08:09 PM   #10
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nah this thread is probably fine. all i know to tell you is to set a power goal. know how much you are shooting for and get a clutch to take that power and dont go past that goal. clutchmasters is the best bet for a clutch IMO and massive has the best deal on them as far as i know. ignore what "stage" a clutch is because the torque rating varies so much between companies that its useless to go by.

be careful about that N/A build. if you plan to boost in the future you will need to keep your compression low for that. so dont get high compression pistons or mill the head or block too much.

i know literally nothing about that flywheel so im not going to say anything one way or another about it other than take it to someone that knows what they are doing to have them check it out. also take care to triple check that whatever clutch you get will work with that flywheel. some clutch kits require a specific flywheel to mate with.

also if its going to be awhile before you boost then i would suggest just leaving the clutch you have in the car. you wont get as much mileage out of the upper tier clutches so its better if you wait until very shortly before you boost before you upgrade the clutch
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