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Old 06-25-2012, 05:10 AM   #81
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I always raise an eyebrow when people tell me that they think a new ECU will solve their engine problems. In 8 years on this board I've only seen like 2-3x when an ECU was needed, and only one time when it didn't display [--------] on the odometer. I'll have to review the thread when I have time and give my opinion.
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Old 06-25-2012, 05:57 AM   #82
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Threads like this make people want to start learning how to work on their own cars. I could throw my vote in there, but y'know internet diagnostics aren't easy. That's why 1TurboFocus wants a datalog before he puts his .02 in. Without some sort of diagnostic- we're just guessing.

The symptoms can be caused by a number of conditions- many have been covered so far. Since you've tried so many things, I have to be careful not to double track. Also, I think your problems must be caused by either a combination of problems or an uncommon problem.

1) The collapsed PCV vacuum line can cause low idle, which could be the stalling part, but not all of your problem.

2) EGR issues including the DPFE failure. The DPFE is what controls the EGR, it measures exhaust gas pressures, and tells the EGR when to open or shut. Usually, odd readings of this device will trigger DTCs (diagnostic trouble code) of some sort. Sometimes the DPFE fails without a code, and I could see where the EGR could be stuck closed and the DPFE not know it. That being said, your symptoms seem to be more extreme than a stuck closed EGR will cause, and symptoms of a closed EGR will go away as the engine warms up. This could be part of the problem if multiple problems are causing this issue. I would remove the EGR, clean, and check to be sure it has it's range of movement. To test, simply put a small hose on the vacuum port, turn the EGR around so you can see the valve, and suck lightly on the hose. About enough breath to fill one cheek is enough to operate the valve. If it seems like you're sucking forever- there's a hole, and the EGR is bad. Other than that just watch to see that the valve opens and closes completely.

3) I don't think the car is really backfiring. Backfiring is nearly non-exisent in computer controlled EFI vehicles that don't have some sort of valve timing failure- which you don't have. Backfiring shoots fire up through the intake, and usually happens after a vehicle has nearly stalled out or stalled out. I think what you're experiencing is fuel popping or firing in the exhaust. This can come from any sort of problem that allows either too much fuel or incomplete combustion- which would allow unburnt fuel to enter the exhaust. If you thought the other list was long, this one is longer. From incorrect spark plug gap, plugs in the wrong heat range, and on to clogged catalytic converters- we've got lots of causes for unburnt fuel. I'd expect a DTC from the upstream O2 sensor, and so I wonder why that one isn't doing it's job. Although the symptoms fit, ehh, I'm a bit reluctant due to lack of DTCs. I really wish you would've gotten the actual number for the DTCs that the car's computer is throwing. That would aid with our internet diagnostic.

4) I'd like to know when this started happening. I assume you didn't buy a car with these sorts of problems. That might help with some diagnostics. I was thinking you might have a throttle plate that is not set properly, but someone would've had to do that at some point. You haven't had any boyfriends who tried to adjust your idle screw have you? (don't do it, there is no idle screw)

That's my first stab at it. I'm late for work now. Maybe later.
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:24 PM   #83
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ok ..so it's been a while but I have an update....First off, this car is throwing absolutely no codes so that is a big problem in itself...I found a local fanatic who used to work for Ford but he too, is stumped...He changed fuel pump , checked the timing ( which is fine), swapped out the MAF with his focus just to see if there was any changed, no change, swapped out fuel injectors, and checked for a clogged CAT ..NO change...Changed EGR valve and gasket, no change. New throttle body and TPS, No change..Car still doing it's thing..so here is a list of stuff that has been checked or changed..
Timing: checked
Fuel injectors : checked
MAF sensor : checked-and cleaned
CAT converter : checked
vacuum leaks : checked
Plugs : changed
wires: changed
fuel filter: changed
Crankshaft sensor: changed
cam shaft sensor: changed
computer : checked
Idle Air control : changed
Throttle body and TPS: changed
Alternator : changed
Battery : changed...I know the last 2 have nothing to do with the problem.. during all of this my alternator went, killing my battery...
So I ask, what else is there...just about everything under the hood is new...WHAT COULD IT BE?? I was so sure it was the EGR this time because a bad egr makes the car run bad at a low idle but good at highway speed...BINGO, I thought. But no..more money wasted...wait, I remember reading someones reply about a DPFE sensor or something like that. Could that be it?? <sigh> How much does that cost and is it hard to change...anybody??
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:28 PM   #84
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ok ..so it's been a while but I have an update....First off, this car is throwing absolutely no codes so that is a big problem in itself...I found a local fanatic who used to work for Ford but he too, is stumped...He changed fuel pump , checked the timing ( which is fine), swapped out the MAF with his focus just to see if there was any changed, no change, swapped out fuel injectors, and checked for a clogged CAT ..NO change...Changed EGR valve and gasket, no change. New throttle body and TPS, No change..Car still doing it's thing..so here is a list of stuff that has been checked or changed to date..
Timing: checked
Fuel injectors : checked
MAF sensor : checked-and cleaned
CAT converter : checked
vacuum leaks : checked
Plugs : changed
wires: changed
fuel filter: changed
Crankshaft sensor: changed
cam shaft sensor: changed
computer : checked
Idle Air control : changed
Throttle body and TPS: changed
Alternator : changed
Battery : changed...
I know the last 2 have nothing to do with the problem.. during all of this my alternator went, killing my battery...
So I ask, what else is there...just about everything under the hood is new...WHAT COULD IT BE?? I was so sure it was the EGR this time because a bad egr makes the car run bad at a low idle but good at highway speed...BINGO, I thought. But no..more money wasted...wait, I remember reading someones reply about a DPFE sensor or something like that. Could that be it?? <sigh> How much does that cost and is it hard to change...anybody??
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:35 PM   #85
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sorry about the double post...I have dial up and I didn't think it posted the first time..
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:46 PM   #86
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Oh , I forgot to mention..the local fanatic, who worked for Ford, is a God Send...He would take no money for doing any of the stuff he did, but of course I gave him some.. Anyway, he is the 4th mechanic to have at it with this car..
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Old 09-07-2012, 10:20 AM   #87
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The DPFE sensor is easy and relatively cheep. But it should throw a code when it fails. I've replaced mine twice now on my 2001 Zetec.
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Old 09-07-2012, 11:14 AM   #88
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Has anyone suggested poor electrical contacts? Especially with grounds. As the RPM drops the Alternator reduces its output. Normally not an issue, but any corrosion or oil caked contacts will.
Also, voltage fluctuations could lead to premature Alternator failure.
Bad ground can be checked for by running additional grounding wire between battery, frame, engine block and alternator frame.
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Old 09-07-2012, 11:30 AM   #89
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There should still be a vac leak, if it is not apparent check the master, booster and check valve. There are tests for all of these, don't keep throwing money in and exchanging parts.
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Old 09-07-2012, 11:44 AM   #90
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I had the same thing happen to me. I found a smal tear in the air tube after the MAF sensor and before the throttle body. Whent he engine flexed under load it would open up the tear and cause "extra" air to enter the engine. the MAF snesor would say one thing and the amount of air would be different.

On car number two same problem, found the seal around the air cleaner box was not sealing outside air and allowing more air by it. changed seal around air box problem solved.

look at your air tube and all its connections between maf and throttle body.
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