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Old 06-02-2012, 01:23 PM   #21
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Posted via FF Mobile Found some other threads that may help.

According to this thread your ECU also controls the voltage that is being used depending on what is running. Like A/C on, increase voltage. So yea maybe there is something up with the ECU. Try reseting it, follow the relearn instructions posted above and see if that works, hopefully it does. Easy fix.
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/s...02#post4195402


Also found this about the IAC.

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=262990
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Old 06-02-2012, 07:36 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrkKnight614 View Post
Posted via FF Mobile Found some other threads that may help.

According to this thread your ECU also controls the voltage that is being used depending on what is running. Like A/C on, increase voltage. So yea maybe there is something up with the ECU. Try reseting it, follow the relearn instructions posted above and see if that works, hopefully it does. Easy fix.
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/s...02#post4195402


Also found this about the IAC.

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=262990
I am going to try everything you have said and also, I have to find someone to check the IAC because I think you have to lift the car to get to it....hey I see you are from Long Island...I am originally from Long Island...Patchogue, in Suffolk County..
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Old 06-02-2012, 07:38 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by mikebontoft View Post
Disconnecting the negative (black) cable is safer. When you do the positive first, it lets out quite a bit of sparks and can even ignite fumes if they are present

Tom suggested finding someone in your area to let you borrow it so he can see what's going on.

Have you tried testing the Idle Air Control valve yet? Idle is supposed to raise when the A/C switch is turned on, otherwise it will kill the engine as it sounds like it is doing. If it is in the wrong position (IE letting too much or too little air into the system) it can also cause a sputtering condition from an off-idle acceleration.
Haven't checked the Idle Air valve yet...have to find someone who can check it for me...but that seems to be the most leaned towards as far as what the problem could be....is it expensive to have changed?
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Old 06-02-2012, 07:43 PM   #24
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I had this same prob in my focus it would die if the rpms got too low or stopped at a red light i would have to kick it in neutral and rev the engine to keep it from dying. I bought a tuner from sct and used its stock tune, car idles way better hasnt shut off on me yet. But I also was in a accident which caused the timing to be off a bit. I havent messed with data logging but from what I read can show you what's the prob...


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Old 06-03-2012, 12:27 PM   #25
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I am going to try everything you have said and also, I have to find someone to check the IAC because I think you have to lift the car to get to it....hey I see you are from Long Island...I am originally from Long Island...Patchogue, in Suffolk County..
Yup, Valley Stream, Nassau county (uh oh, now they know where I live ). I know a few people from Patchogue, theyre around 24. What made you move down to the deep south?
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Old 06-03-2012, 04:09 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by DrkKnight614 View Post
Yup, Valley Stream, Nassau county (uh oh, now they know where I live ). I know a few people from Patchogue, theyre around 24. What made you move down to the deep south?
Originally from Queens myself, but I got family in Oceanside/Island Park/Long Beach area, along with Port Jefferson/Coram

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Old 06-03-2012, 04:20 PM   #27
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I was wondering about the plug wires, myself.... sounds too simple, so.....
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Old 06-03-2012, 06:00 PM   #28
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I know someone who can check the IAC, timing and sparkplug wires for me...Hoping it's just a dirty IAC...(saying prayers)

As far as moving to the deep south, I am a single mom who when her parents moved down here would have lost her babysitter...we went halvsies on a house so my parents, my son and myself all live together...besides, most of the rest of my family is down here..just a brother still in Patchogue and a sister in Orlando...
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Old 06-03-2012, 06:43 PM   #29
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I'm voting IAC. My car never threw a code and anytime I came to a stop sign or light I would have to give it a little gas while holding the brake to keep it from stalling. I wasn't able to turn the A/C on either cause it would stall almost instantly if I wasn't moving. Like Mike said if you turn on your A/C and your rpms don't raise up, and your car stalls instead. I'd say it's your IAC. You can reach it by jacking the car up but it's up in there and tricky to get to. Good luck.
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Old 06-03-2012, 07:41 PM   #30
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I'm voting IAC. My car never threw a code and anytime I came to a stop sign or light I would have to give it a little gas while holding the brake to keep it from stalling. I wasn't able to turn the A/C on either cause it would stall almost instantly if I wasn't moving. Like Mike said if you turn on your A/C and your rpms don't raise up, and your car stalls instead. I'd say it's your IAC. You can reach it by jacking the car up but it's up in there and tricky to get to. Good luck.
That's what I am going to do...first have the IAC checked but let me ask you this: would the IAC make the car pop, sputter and backfire under the hood when putting car in park with foot on brake and stepping on the gas ( like power braking I guess) ...it does all that really bad when you do that...
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