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Old 07-15-2012, 06:20 PM   #21
Magus2727
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Thanks for the suggestion, i was thinking of doing that, not sure what you mean by "when it comes time for the intake manifold" I had everything all mocked up, basically reassembled the whole top end of the motor for the fit check... are you referring to if I remove the factory intake and go with an aftermarket? Will pick that stuff up when I am at the hardware store finding the correct fitting for the EGR bung. I thought that it would be good to keep as any attachment even with a sleeve would provide some heat sinking, also don't want to worry about touching up the paint.
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Old 07-15-2012, 07:59 PM   #22
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This has probably has been asked or you mentioned before, but your keeping the EGR for emissions reasons right?
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Old 07-15-2012, 08:05 PM   #23
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Yes... long story short I hate Utah emissions and wish I was back in Michigan. I need the EGR to work a few days out if the year were I will remove the block off plate and tune to stock and let the computer know there is EGR get it ODB2 tested and then convert it back...
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Old 07-15-2012, 08:27 PM   #24
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Ah I understand. I was planning on doing the same thing but tried passing with out it and it worked. I guess I'm one of the lucky ones who can pass with a tune. Guess it's much better you thinking ahead about it than finding out later you need to add a egr once it's all installed.
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Old 07-15-2012, 08:59 PM   #25
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Well guess this is as good of a place as any to say why... Don't read if you don't like novels...

Got the car from Boston had it in Michigan, no emissions or safety inspections of any kind. Was going to school out west and it came down to either paying out of state tuition or transfer over to Utah plates and all and become a resident... so to save over $20k a year i switched over.

First year it was a pass as they only do safety and emission inspections on a every other model year for the first 6 or so years so first year was fine. second year ran into problems and tried resetting the computer but no dice. got a xCal2 and a tune from FocusSport.

Worked fine till what now 3 years ago... now needing inspection every year on safety and emissions i went into a shop that I did not have problems with before. However they though my car was a new model and a Duatec which i guess has two cats on it. and since mine only had a single (SVT conversion) cat the flagged my car and failed it. Note it does not need to be CARB or anything it just needs to keep the same number of cats. but because they flagged it they could not retest it and had to be done by the Utah environmental air quality people. Their test came back perfect except for one flaw... the Tune i got just "disabled" the EGR instead of reporting a false reading that all is well.

As they where looking as a more detailed print out sheet they saw this and said.. wait a second this has EGR why is it not reporting. They looked up in a data base (love big brother....) of all my past history of emission testing. They saw that it was not reported on all the tests and said that i need to get that fixed. I knew why it was what it was but guess i played dumb. The work around was if I spent over $300 or so trying to fix it I could by pass it one year but HAD to get it fixed the next year.

So I ordered a new SVT Exhaust manifold (after trying to patch up the old one but after failed welding was a complete lost) and had a shop install it (the thing that irked me was that a shop had to do it to document that work and $ was spent. Michigan dropped emission because of this and shops just trying to pull money of out peoples pockets). The shop put in a "tube" which they said you could connect to the cut EGR tube by means of a high temp silicone tube... needless to say that did not work and I have silicon coating my whole intake and it became very brittle and i ended up just capping it off not using the EGR. Oh and I also had the dealership install a new EGR valve and sensor...

After that I got a pass for 1 year and come may of 2011 I started to work on fixing it (needed to get it emission passed by the end of the month). Well I worked up a real fix of a stainless steel tube bent with some exhaust patch to seal up the ends. and got new tires and was just putting miles on the reflashed computer to get everything up and going.

This is where the rebuild started. Months before getting the EGR working I upgraded all the power wire and happened to route the starter though the intake such that the positive power wire was resting against the EGR tube from the valve to the intake. well after hooking up the EGR correctly it now was hot and melted the insulating material on power wire and shorting. This caused a short and small engine fire got everything off with minimal damage.

The car would no longer start and run, would crank over still but die seconds later, would only stay on if the gas. My then auto insurance would only tow to a dealership and they said they wanted $500+ just to diagnose it (even after I told them the initial cause). I said no and got it tow strapped home and started work. found out that the compression was all over the place varying by more than 20 psi between pistons and low 70psi range... Thus my build thread.
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Old 08-02-2012, 07:35 PM   #26
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Well its been a while since I was able to do anything on the motor since I am still waiting on a high RPM oil pump from C-F-M... but I was able to get a 9 pin D connector for the Xcal2 so I can hook up and datalog an O2 sensor for tuning with top.
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Old 08-02-2012, 09:31 PM   #27
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loosk like things are going ok. too bad you arent in wisconsin. i could weld up that egr stuff no problem.
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Old 08-02-2012, 11:04 PM   #28
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It would be great if I was... or even back home in MI i have friends that are good welders... out here I dont know any one... I have one of those wife's-cousins-aunt's-step-son who teaches welding on a college and high school level but feel weird saying "Hey can you weld a bunch of stuff for me even though I only see you on Thanksgiving and 4th of July...

There is a weld shop that's recommended by the shop that has done all my machine work I am just debating if I should put the O2 bung for my wideband on the SVT header right by the flange or install it on the C-F-M street SVT CAT. I think I am leaning towards the later.

I need to find a fitting still that I can weld into the header for the EGR... The other end of the EGR (i have 3 EGR "tubes" only 1 complete tube) and cut off the threaded section that goes into the EGR valve and its the perfect fit except the threaded shaft is not long enough to bottom out to the tube and make the needed seal.

Does any one know what kind of fitting is needed or thread size? I was going to go to Home Depot / Lowe's to find out if there is anything I can figure out size and such and then find a stainless steel one online. Any one who has this info would be great!!!

After I get the EGR adapter for the header it will be off to get welded and then black ceramic coating at a local company.

C-F-M still says "OUT OF STOCK ETA 07/31/12" for the oil pump... its 8/2/12... any word?

Also what is the best way to clean the oil valleys? With painting the block there was a little that got into the threads which I very carefully cleaned out attempting to make sure that none went into the block. I used compress air to blow the crap out of the passages but worried there is still small gunk. Do I need to care about this as its soft enamel and any small bits is negligible? I was thinking of a rifle / gun cleaning type kit which will allow for me to scrub the whole length of the passages. Are there kits like this specific for motor blocks?

Thanks for answers to all my questions and taking the time to read them!
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Old 08-11-2012, 07:48 PM   #29
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Status: was able to get a bunch of work done, not on the motor but on the rest of the car. I dropped the cross member, pulled the struts and shocks, dropped the steering rack also. However cant figure out how to remove the PS line that connects on the drivers side PS cooler... How do I remove this? Manual says special tool, how do you either make this tool? or buy?


Cross Member:


I thought of leaving it on so I cleaned part of it up and used some POR-15 on it. But then since I am waiting on the Oil pump from C-F-M and still wanting to work on the car decided to drop the whole thing. I will sand blast the whole thing down and depending on how the POR-15 stands up to the sand blasting will either powder coat the cross-member or I will paint the rest with POR-15.

Struts, Springs, and LCR race camber plates:



The Koni Struts are looking worse for ware... wonder how well I can paint match it and with some rustolium spray paint or some other rust resistant paint, along with the springs.... thought of powder coating the springs... the cost of powder coating is just going up as I take more and more off...

How do you best clean the L.C.R camber plates? it looks like they no longer make these so dont want to do anything that will dry out the bearings.

Car with the cross member out:



The bushings for the Eibach sway-bar were a little loose so I will be contacting them on Monday to see if they can send out new ones. I cant find a place to buy them.
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Old 08-11-2012, 08:34 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magus2727 View Post
How do you best clean the L.C.R camber plates? it looks like they no longer make these so dont want to do anything that will dry out the bearings.
the bearing is just an off the shelf sperical bearing. it easily presses out if u need to replace. I've had mine out to clean, they were full of grit, and sounded crunchy. To lube i just used regular hi pressure grease during assembly, been smooth ever since.
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