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Old 05-08-2012, 08:24 AM   #11
HatWobble
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Quote:
Originally Posted by betox69 View Post
where are you planning on mounting the twitters? i want a pair of 6.5" component but i want my twitters to fit the stock location.
I'm gonna use the stock location-- based on other install threads it looks really easy.
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Old 05-08-2012, 08:33 AM   #12
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So I experimented with threading speaker wire through the door boots yesterday. I was disappointed to learn that the door boot isn't a simple rubber tube as I suspected but instead consists of a wire harness at the point where the boot meets the body of the car, meaning you can't pass a damn thing through it.

This leaves me the option of drilling new holes in the metal or using the stock wire runs, like Yanner did. I'm leaning towards the latter. Either choice results in an irreversible modification to the car, and I figure reconnecting some wires is less egregious than trying to patch holes in sheet metal.

I don't think the loss from using the factory wires will result in too much signal degradation, based on some numbers I punched in here: http://www.bcae1.com/images/swfs/spe...rassistant.swf

I'm going to try to run the power wire tonight. I'm planning on running it in through the existing grommet on the passenger side, as others have done. I'd like to be able to cross it over to the driver's side after than and run it down the driver's side doors, but we'll see if that's possible.
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Old 05-08-2012, 08:44 AM   #13
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Did you notice that in the fronts only just under the boot on the frame side there are rubber grommets, can we pass a wire from there into the door boot?

This is not the case in the rear. But if you do drill holes for the rear, be , sure to add a grommets for protection. Let us know,which way you go
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Old 05-08-2012, 08:51 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by voipguy View Post
Did you notice that in the fronts only just under the boot on the frame side there are rubber grommets, can we pass a wire from there into the door boot?

This is not the case in the rear. But if you do drill holes for the rear, be , sure to add a grommets for protection. Let us know,which way you go
Yep, I saw those. I'm still gonna go with using the factory wiring, I think.
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Old 05-08-2012, 08:43 PM   #15
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So I ran the power cable thought the firewall earlier today. It was not without its episode of drama.

I decided to do the "Yanner technique" and run the power wire through the large rubber grommet on the passenger side of the engine bay. First thing I did was remove the glove box to get easy access from the cab. There are five black screws that need to be unscrewed to yank the glove box off-- two inside the glove box, one on the door side that you need to remove the side panel to access, and two on the underside of the glove box. You'll need to remove the felt panel near the passenger's feet to access these, and they're tricky to find, so look hard. You don't need to remove the two silver bolts down there, just the black screws.

While I was disconnecting the positive terminal on the battery, I broke the self-tightening bolt on the terminal. This was some crazily-shaped bolt that I've never seen before, and I ran over to Pep Boys to see if I could find one. No luck. However, I was able to fashion a makeshift bolt out of a hex bolt, nut, washer, and a wing nut.



I have to say, I'm pretty proud of myself for figuring that out.

Here's where I tied the fuse on, using two zipties. Looks like some kind of sensor wiring so I don't think it'll get hot and melt the fuse casing:



Finally, I ran the wire though the grommet. I tried making a cut near the existing wires at the center like you're supposed to, but I couldn't get a good angle on it to do that. Instead, I pulled the grommet to the side and ran the wire on the outside of the grommet. Then, from the inside of the car, I made a notch on the outer rim of the grommet so that the wire would run through the notch and the grommet would be more flush against the car. I know this is completely different than all of the other installs I've ever seen on this site where existing grommets were used, but I was having difficulty doing it the "right" way, and it seems like the seal is adequate.

From the engine:



From the cabin near the passenger's feet (sans glovebox):



I'll run it though the passenger side doors (along with the input and output speaker wires) sometime later this week.
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Old 05-09-2012, 11:58 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HatWobble View Post
Yep, I saw those. I'm still gonna go with using the factory wiring, I think.
Yeah I think thats a wise choice, I'm going to skip running new speaker wire to the doors and go with running 2 15 foot 9 conductor 18guage speed cables and use the factory wire in the doors. That's what 2 install shops told me they would do. One place said they already did that in one of the installs and it sounded good!
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Old 05-12-2012, 02:27 PM   #17
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I ran all the wires to the trunk on Thursday. I decided, after reading what others have posted online, that running the speaker wire and the power wire along the same is not a huge deal. I'll be listening for noise problems once I get everything rolling but I'm hopeful I'll be OK.

Here are all the panels along the right side, pulled up. There are multiple panels to remove, including the cupholders in the rear, which were especially tricky to remove, as they had some of those plastic fasteners. You need to remove the bottom of the rear seat to get that panel off, too. The seat is only held on with two big Torx screws. Just pull up to remove.

I ran all of the wires along the door sill. Looking from the back seat forward:



Looking from the front seat, backward:



Here are the wires running under the carpet under the right rear seat to my components in the trunk. I used two four-strand 18-gauge wire snakes to run from the head unit to the LOC, and four twisted-pair 16 gauge wires to run from the amp back to the wire harness up front.



Wires ready to be soldered into the wire harness, run under the carpet on the passenger side:

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Old 05-12-2012, 02:48 PM   #18
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After running the wires to the trunk, the next thing to do was hook up the components. Hooking up the LOC was easy enough with the wires I used. I have one channel for the front and another for the rear. The LC6i will duplicate the 2nd channel output into the 3rd channel output if there is no 3rd channel input-- this is for routing the rear channel to the subwoofer channel. I made use of this feature. The power and turn-on wires go to the amp, which I will show you next.



Despite Rockford's website, which says that the R600-5 can accept a 4 AWG power wire input, it definitely cannot. It felt pretty lo-tech trimming some copper strands from the wire to make it fit into the terminals, but it worked. I taped them up after the trim job because all of those copper strands straying everywhere freaked me out. I also jammed the power wires from the LOC into the terminals alongside the power wire. The green wire is the remote turn on wire from the LC6i-- once the LC6i senses a signal on its input wires, it sends +12V to the amp which can be used in lieu of the remote turn on wire from the head unit, which is nice.



Here's the final product:

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Old 05-12-2012, 08:56 PM   #19
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I don't think running the power wire outside the grommet is a good idea. Over time, vibration against the metal of the car will cut through the wire jacket and short the wire. This should blow the fuse, but it could cause a fire. You could try wedging a piece of hard plastic between the wire and the metal, like a section of PVC pipe, or you can run it through the grommet. I notice that you made one slice, but you should actually make an "X" which would make it easier to push through the grommet. In any case, for long term longevity, I recommend you fix it somehow.
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Old 05-12-2012, 09:41 PM   #20
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^^^ +1 to this.
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