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Old 11-13-2003, 11:37 AM   #41
BIGBADWORM
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OK, just a quick question to make sure I got this right........if you're supposed to put in 5/30 in your car and you go to synthetic, you put 5/30 synthetic in, right?
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Old 11-13-2003, 11:55 AM   #42
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Typically, U use the same weight of synthetic as you used with dino oil.
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Old 11-13-2003, 10:56 PM   #43
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ok geeze nobody found my remark funny.....im disappointed, time for bed....
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Old 11-14-2003, 08:41 AM   #44
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The 2000 to 2002 Ford Focus with the 2.0L engine has a recommended oil of 5w20. This, according to Ford "is an improved formulation to improve fuel economy". The exception to this rule is for the 2002 Ford Focus 2.0L Zetec which should use 5w30. Again, this is the
'Recommended' oil. If you check your owners manual, you won't see a 'WARNING' or "CAUTION' next to the oil recommendation. I do not believe that tolerances in the engines were changed to accept only a thinner oil, if so, Ford would not be recommending 5w20, but requiring it, likewise they say specifically the thinner oil is for fuel economy in their TSB.

Before a warranty can be voided, according to Magneson Moss the manufacturer must give clear evidence and proof of what you did to void the warranty. Changing from a 'Recommended' oil to something else reasonable is not grounds to void warranty. Likewise, how can Ford only 'Recommend' one specific oil, but continue to call it a recommendation? Normally in owners manuals they will list many oils that are recommended in relationship to temperature. You might check Ford TSB 2002-01-21 and TSB 99-8-16.
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Old 11-14-2003, 09:47 AM   #45
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OMG, I haven't been on in two days, and i'm amazed that this thread is still going . Didn't think it would be as big as politics or religion Guess when it comes to car peps, it is as big as either of those two.
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Old 11-14-2003, 10:01 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally posted by wangel
they say specifically the thinner oil is for fuel economy in their TSB.
Do you know where this documentation or TSB can be located on the web ?
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Old 11-14-2003, 11:29 AM   #47
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by wangel
[B]The 2000 to 2002 Ford Focus with the 2.0L engine has a recommended oil of 5w20. This, according to Ford "is an improved formulation to improve fuel economy". The exception to this rule is for the 2002 Ford Focus 2.0L Zetec which should use 5w30.

I own a 2000 2.0L and under the hood it says 5w30.
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Old 11-14-2003, 08:08 PM   #48
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It specifically says 5w30 on my 2000 focus as well
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Old 11-15-2003, 12:30 AM   #49
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OIL? Let's Talk about the engine!

Not to poke my nose in where it's not wanted, but: I have been questioning the 5w 20 bit myself. I have rebuilt over 1500 engines, a large number of them DOHC 4 cylinders. I have never found the need to use anything other than SAE30 (preferably Castrol GTX or Kendall, no synthetics) There are only about 5 or 6 refiners of Automotive motor oil worldwide. Bad news for Penzoil users: If not changed religiously penzoil has catastrophic effects on engines. Castrol far exceeds the life of other oils and is even quite competitive with synthetics. I have been using the 5w 20 CastrolGTX. Weight based on Ford reccomendations. I believe SAE30 would be fine for the Focus (depending on climate) There are a couple of key factors in which viscosity to use. One of them is the bearing clearance. Another is pump pressure, and another is piston design (BTW Pistons don't splash oil to cool. Oil is pumped through the connecting rod to the wrist pin and forced out of a couple of small holes in the side of the piston in order to lubricate the oil ring which in turn transfers the oil evenly to the cyliner wall) There are also the factors of oil galley diameter to the cylinder head and whether or not the head has bearings and/or rocker arms relating to the camshaft. Ok so there's a lot of factors. For example: racing pistons often have grooves scored in a spiral manner around the outside of the piston to keep the oil from disappating at high temperatures (viscosity/thermal breakdown) Another trick on cylinder heads is very similar: If you are building a high performance engine, it is often wise to run a tap down each oil galley in the head to slow the flow of oil back to the sump. Oil pump placement is also critical. Engines that have the oil pump placed at the rear main frequently exhibit a knock on start up, as well as engines that have a front mounted (crank driven) pump. The reason for this is that the engine literally sucks air for a 10-30 seconds when it fires. There is only the leftover oil film on the bearings to lubricate for that time period (another good reason to use SAE 30) The most effective oil pumps are placed at the front of the engine (#1 or #2 Main bearing, ford is usually pretty good about this) These are most effective with a bearing tolerance of .0015 with a running pump pressure of about 87lbs. Cylinder head galleys should also be no less than 4mm and no more than 6.5mm indiameter. Machined journals with a tolerance of .001-.002 should also be used as opposed to bearings. Rockers should not be used (because of flex), cap and shim assemblies are preferred. (Please note that this ALL refers to oil viscosity, thus providing some insight into manufacturer's reccomendations) So, in conclusion, I can' tell you what oil to use without actually tearing one of these engines down and doing some examination and measurments. From experience I would recommend SAE30 once you've surpassed 30,000 miles (except in colder climates. which would be below 10 degress F, then 5w30 would be applicable) As for 10w oils (mineral oil), this is the equivelant of hydraulic oil, or Dextron II. The thermal breakdown on this stuff is ridiculous. It will carbonise at no more than 5000 miles and ultimatley cause premature bearing failure. 10W cooks at about 175 degrees. It's great for Diesels (most V-8 applications run about 160 degrees for correct atomization), but stinks for anything that runs a thermostat of 180 or above (newer Chevy 350's run a 220 degree T-stat, so you wouldn't use it there) Average four cylinder uses a 197 degree thermostat. If you change your oil regularly, and use a good quality oil, then synthetic are not neccesary. Amsoil (FYI) only requires filter changes. You can also do this with a standard oil filter on any engine. The filter picks up most or all of the sediment. you could use a good quality oil or synthetic and change your filter every thousand miles or so and have the same effect as AMSOIL. Weigh the cost difference. Some other things not mentioned above are itmes like: Do the engines have Chrome-Moly or cast iron rings, or a combination of both? Is there a splash guard in the oil pan? Anyhow, I've bored all of you enough, Gone for another 90mph Jaunt in my ZTS. Don't care what kind of oil it's got in it right now, as long as it goes when I step on it, I'm Good!
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Old 11-15-2003, 12:58 AM   #50
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(BTW Pistons don't splash oil to cool. Oil is pumped through the connecting rod to the wrist pin and forced out of a couple of small holes in the side of the piston in order to lubricate the oil ring which in turn transfers the oil evenly to the cyliner wall)


Not all engines have that. In fact most don't. Example, small block Fords in the early 60's had the sqirter hole in the rod. Mid sixties on up don't have the sqirter hole. It uses splash from the crank to cool the pistons with oil

As for 10w oils (mineral oil), this is the equivelant of hydraulic oil, or Dextron II. The thermal breakdown on this stuff is ridiculous. It will carbonise at no more than 5000 miles and ultimatley cause premature bearing failure. 10W cooks at about 175 degrees. It's great for Diesels (most V-8 applications run about 160 degrees for correct atomization),

don't confuse 10W mineral oil with 10W engine oil. It is a totally different composition.

You can also do this with a standard oil filter on any engine. The filter picks up most or all of the sediment. you could use a good quality oil or synthetic and change your filter every thousand miles or so and have the same effect as AMSOIL.


You still need to change the dino oil regularly... it breaks down.


I am sure your info works good for a race engine that sees quarter mile time, but I think it is irresponsible advice for a daily driven street car. Straight 30w oil should never be used anymore. The good ole days when straight 30w oil was used produced engines that didn't last very long compared to todays engines
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