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Old 01-19-2014, 02:47 PM   #1
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P0507 High Idle/Hanging Idle

Hi all, anyone know how to fix this? Thought it was just the TB sticking but I put it back to closed manually and that makes no difference. Car runs fine but the idle is hanging and then when it comes back to where it should be, it will not go down to 750...more like 900. changed out the IAC and the air filter (was dirty) still having same issue. Reset the PCM by disconnecting the battery and draining as well. Smoke test shows no leaks. Just at a loss.


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Old 01-19-2014, 06:04 PM   #2
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Moved to "General Technical Chat".
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Old 01-19-2014, 06:26 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NemesisEnforcer View Post
Hi all, anyone know how to fix this? Thought it was just the TB sticking but I put it back to closed manually and that makes no difference. Car runs fine but the idle is hanging and then when it comes back to where it should be, it will not go down to 750...more like 900. changed out the IAC and the air filter (was dirty) still having same issue. Reset the PCM by disconnecting the battery and draining as well. Smoke test shows no leaks. Just at a loss.
Im having simular issues, i can start my car cold, and idle will be at 1800 (normal for a cold start) and not touch the throttle, and slowly drop down to 1000, but as soon as i give it gas it hangs up at 1800 rpm... and i have to wait 5 seconds for it to come down.. it wont return to its original 800rpm mark either.. it sits at 1000. Mine is manual so when i shift, the rpms just hang there until i release the clutch.. if im in 3 cruising down, and let the rpms dip below 1500 push the clutch in to shift to 2nd the rpms shoot up to 2000, if i release the clutch above 2000, they hang there or higher depending on where i release it, and get yanked down but they clutch. I can tap the gas in nuetral and it hangs for a bit.. then drops.

I have replaced IACV,TPS cleaned TB no vacuum leaks and PCV is functioning correctly.. both cruise and throttle cables are fine.

The kicker for me is, once my car is warmed up, if i pop the hood and unplug the IACV it idles fine and doesnt hang.up between shifts. So something is commanding my IACV to open when it shouldnt be open...

Here is a link to a video of what mines doing. Same thing with you? Mine is also a 2005


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0fVC...e_gdata_player
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Old 01-19-2014, 07:20 PM   #4
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yes that is basically it. I ended up getting a code too. I took it to dealer and they could not find anything wrong either...they did replace the thermostat as it was not getting up to temp quickly enough. this is driving me nuts.
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Old 01-19-2014, 08:26 PM   #5
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yes that is basically it. I ended up getting a code too. I took it to dealer and they could not find anything wrong either...they did replace the thermostat as it was not getting up to temp quickly enough. this is driving me nuts.
What code did you get? Im taking it to the dealer tomorrow.. hopefully they find something... ill report back if they do.
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Old 01-20-2014, 11:05 PM   #6
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the P0507 one in the title. notes a few items, IAC being main one.
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Old 01-21-2014, 09:54 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by NemesisEnforcer View Post
the P0507 one in the title. notes a few items, IAC being main one.
Yea, maybe something is triggering that code, meaning your IACV is fine but you might have a bad power steering pressure sensor or a bad VSS( or operating incorrectly but still within spec which is why its not triggering its own code) thats triggering your IACV to open when it shouldnt be.. for some reason i have a feeling mine is related to my TPS.. I took the old one out, there was the right amount of resistance (.97 closed throttle- 4.73 WOT) but the old TPS spun freely..and the inner mechanism was all worn and wobbly. the new one i got springs back when turned.. i put the new aftermarket one in and it was worse! So i pulled that one out to put the old one back in and when the new one came out it was in peices... i have a appointment at ford for friday at noon. Ill let you know what happens
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Old 01-21-2014, 01:34 PM   #8
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brady2005 - There's a note on TPS installation you may have missed. The shaft that goes into the TPS doesn't line up right when you line up the TPS with it's mounting holes. The TPS needs to be twisted slightly to line up & engage the shaft as it's installed, then twisted back to line up the mounting holes after it slides onto the shaft.

One possibility for the new one not working/broken when removed.

Luck with your PITA of a problem.
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Old 01-21-2014, 02:29 PM   #9
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brady2005 - There's a note on TPS installation you may have missed. The shaft that goes into the TPS doesn't line up right when you line up the TPS with it's mounting holes. The TPS needs to be twisted slightly to line up & engage the shaft as it's installed, then twisted back to line up the mounting holes after it slides onto the shaft.

One possibility for the new one not working/broken when removed.

Luck with your PITA of a problem.
Hi sailor,

I did install it that way, i aligned the shaft on the TPS to the shaft on the TB,pushed it all the way in to seal it against the TB, then twisted it to line the holes up... i think it was just a faulty aftermarket TPS sensor....

Thank you! hopeully the dealership can figurr ot out...
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Old 01-21-2014, 03:59 PM   #10
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Junk parts don't help. You did it right by the description.

Longest day/most frustrating job I can remember was a tune-up on my then new car. Finished & it wouldn't start.
Much re-checking & hair tearing later, tried an old part (condenser) and it ran perfectly.

Makes it difficult on the occasions when the only "test" is listed as "substitute known good part"!

Luck!
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