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Old 07-16-2014, 07:11 AM   #21
Tiger-Heli
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Which load resistors are you using and where?

I don't think cruise control will engage without load resistors on the rear brake light circuit.

Not what you want to hear, but try temporarily replacing the front side marker light with a 194 bulb.

If that fixes it and you want an LED in the side marker, you might need to add a 25-ohm resistor across the side marker light circuit.

There is additional discussion here - http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/s...=289297&page=2 - and I will be posting some more info there.
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Old 07-16-2014, 08:06 AM   #22
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I want to do this conversion on my 07 sedan but am worried about the hyper-flashing and worried that my car will not be within DOT regulations/fail inspection.

Ideally, I planned on getting only LED's for the back (reverse & brakes/blinker) with the load-resistor kit:

http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...r-kit/190/831/

Anyone just use this load-resistor kit, with the LED's for the back only, and everything works w/out hyper-flashing?
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Old 07-16-2014, 08:57 AM   #23
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I haven't installed them yet.

The back should be less problem - but I think you will need load resistors on the brake circuit to retain the cruise control.

I changed out the HMSL bulbs with no problems and tried to change the tail and turn signals, but the turn signals hyperflashed and the cruise control didn't work and at the time, I didn't feel like bothering with load resistors.

You car will be outside DOT regulations anytime you install an LED bulb in a non-LED housing.

I wouldn't worry about failing inspections though - most LED's will be brighter than stock and I highly doubt the inspector is going to pull the housing off to see what kind of bulb you have installed.

If you are THAT worried about it - mount the resistors inside the trunk (good idea anyway) and swap the LED's for standard bulbs before the inspection (but I think that is overkill).
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Old 07-16-2014, 09:05 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tiger-Heli View Post
I haven't installed them yet.

The back should be less problem - but I think you will need load resistors on the brake circuit to retain the cruise control.

I changed out the HMSL bulbs with no problems and tried to change the tail and turn signals, but the turn signals hyperflashed and the cruise control didn't work and at the time, I didn't feel like bothering with load resistors.

You car will be outside DOT regulations anytime you install an LED bulb in a non-LED housing.

I wouldn't worry about failing inspections though - most LED's will be brighter than stock and I highly doubt the inspector is going to pull the housing off to see what kind of bulb you have installed.

If you are THAT worried about it - mount the resistors inside the trunk (good idea anyway) and swap the LED's for standard bulbs before the inspection (but I think that is overkill).
I'm not that worried about the inspection, as I take it to a family friend who owns a shop and makes sure I don't get screwed over on inspections (like if I were to take it a major chain shop like Pepboys).

I don't have cruise control in my car, so that is another less worry on my mind. I just planned on getting some plastic washers to place between the mounting tabs on the resistors along with some metal screws and mounting them on the walls behind the lenses on the side. That way there is metal contact for the load resistors and sufficient room from other materials.

Right now, I have a shopping cart on superbrightLEDs.com for the 4 LED's I want (reverse and turn/brake) along with the two load-resistor kits. The total comes to $127.... Not really crazy about that. So I'm thinking about getting reverse lights on ebay. I bought my instrument cluster LED's from str_led_lighting and they are awesome. Thinking about looking at them for those four LED's.
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Old 07-16-2014, 11:41 AM   #25
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What inspections are you talking about?

Some states used to have DMV safety inspections.

If you use plastic washers, you don't have metal contact for the resistors - although a turn signal is intermittent so I don't think it's a huge deal.

Not sure what you are going with, but $127 sounds high for four lights.

BTW - the turn signals are single filament, the owners manual says 3157, but I would probably go with 3156's for LED's.

Personally, I've been impressed with Diode Dynamics:
http://www.diodedynamics.com/store/l...size/3156.html

Note that their prices are per pair and for the HP60's you are still close to $120.00, but they are Cree and Epistar (bright LED's).

Personally, if I were doing this, I would go with:
http://www.amazon.com/Jtech-3156-Hig...Jtech+3156+red

http://www.amazon.com/Jtech-3157-Pow...Jtech+3157+red

http://www.amazon.com/Jtech-Resistor...+load+resistor

ends up around $60 and they LOOK the same, but might be generic or fakes - should work fine for just a brighter than stock light, though.
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Old 07-16-2014, 11:56 AM   #26
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Tiger,

The amount is so high at superbright as they are about $30 per bulb.

We have yearly inspections in PA for emissions/inspections of the vehicles. They need to pass a battery of tests to be legal. If a single bulb is out in the brake light (on the trunk) it fails unless it is replaced.

As for the 3156 vs 3157, I would rather have the 3156's. I prefer having the turn signal go from off to on on the single filament than dim to bright when turning on the double. Plus I think that it would look better when you are at a light and stopped. One light being steady state bright and the other simply going off and on is more preferable to me. But I will honestly be fine with either look in the end. I just want what LED's provide in terms of brightness.

I've just purchased the following from std_led_lighting on ebay. I've dealt with them before for other LED's and they are awesome, plus many other members here use them too. Fast shipment and will go above and beyond to fix any issues with their products:

Turns:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/270751797527...84.m1497.l2649

Reverse:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281127244158...84.m1497.l2649

Load-Resistor Kit:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/270657820288...84.m1497.l2649

Total came out to $47.26 with free shipping.

Yeah, I don't know what I was thinking with the plastic washers. Forget that idea. I need the load resistors to be in direct contact with the metal of the vehicle to help dissipate heat.
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Old 07-16-2014, 12:40 PM   #27
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Looks good - let us know how it works out.

We only have emissions inspections here. Growing up, the DMV used to require annual inspections, but they stopped doing that.

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As for the 3156 vs 3157, I would rather have the 3156's. I prefer having the turn signal go from off to on on the single filament than dim to bright when turning on the double.
One of us is misunderstanding 3156's and 3157's, but the ebay add isn't clear either.

On the 2002 Focus, the lower bulbs are 3157's and are used for parking (dim) and brake (bright). The upper bulbs are turn signals and are single-brightness. The manual says the turn signals are 3157's, but when you put a 3157 in a 3156 socket, it doesn't matter b/c only the main filament illuminates and that is the same brightness either way - but that is with incandescents.

With LED's - the ones you ordered have 18 5050 modules with 3 LED's each - so there are 54 LED's per light. But there isn't a "Free" filament with LED's.

I don't know how it breaks out - but ...

If you have 3156 LED's in the turn signals - all 54 LED's light up.

You have to have 3157's in the brake/tails - maybe 27 LED's light up for the brake and 27 for the tails - more likely 18 for tails and 36 for the brakes.

LED's aren't really dim to bright - they tend to be instant on regardless - unless the light circuit varies the voltage to them.

For argument, let's say the 3157 LED's use an 18/36 LED split.

If you use 3156's in the turn signals and 3157's in the brake/tail, your turn signals are going to be the same brightness as your brake and tail lights when they are both on (stopped at a light at night).

If you use 3157's in both - your turn signals are only going to use 36 of the 54 LED's. They will be exactly the same brightness as your brakelights during the daytime, but less bright than your brake lights with the parking lights both on at night.

(In reality - I'm over-thinking this as always and it probably doesn't make that much difference, but paying for 33% of the LED's to not illuminate bothers me.)
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Old 07-16-2014, 12:54 PM   #28
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I will definitely let the board know how it goes.

As for your description on 3156 & 3157, I completely understand you.

My '07 sedan takes the double filament 3157-or-4157 for the brake/turn signals and 3156 for the reverse. The note for the red 3156/3157 on the items description states that it is meant for turns, and for brake/turn functionality I will need the load resistor (which we already knew). Now whether it operates the exact same way as the current filament bulbs do, your guess is as good as mine.

I will get them in and see how they look and operate and let you know of course. I, too, want bright turn/brake LED's and want them to operate properly. Either way, they were less than $15 so I can't be too upset if they aren't great. If I would have paid over $40 for the set, then it is another story. I'm sure I can hopefully work something out with the ebay seller for another item should these not work as intended.
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Old 07-16-2014, 01:45 PM   #29
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http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=451033

The manual is probably incorrect.

I'm not sure, but I think the 2002 and 2007 taillights are the same - they just squared them up some for 2007.

I think you will find the upper light only works with the turn signals (doesn't come on with the brakes or parking lights) and the lower light is the brake/tail lights.

OTOH - I think either 27, 36, or 54 LED's are going to be brighter than a 3157/4157 bulb, so it really doesn't matter.

My minor beef is with std_led_lighting's ads on E-bay as none of his lights are shown as 3156 - they are all either only 3157 or 3157/3156. You can use a 3157 in a 3156, but some of the LED's don't work, but you can't use a 3156 in a 3157 - but for LED's it does make a difference - but perhaps all he carries is 3157's ...

Okay - I'm confused now:
3156's have one wire on each side of the bulb: http://www.donsbulbs.com/cgi-bin/r/b.pl/3156.html

3157's have two wires on each side of the bulb: http://www.donsbulbs.com/cgi-bin/r/b.pl/3157.html

The bulbs I listed from Amazon seem to match that, but the ones from DiodeDynamics show two wires in the pictures, but the description says 3156.

The reverse bulbs you ordered as listed as 3156/3157 and show two wires at the base.

The description says "Perfect for reverse lights", but nobody combines a reverse light with anything - there aren't reverse/turn lights or reverse/brake lights, etc.

The question I have is why there are two wires on the base of the bulb, or what doesn't light up when the light is plugged into a 3156 socket.
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Old 07-16-2014, 02:08 PM   #30
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My 2007 sedan is different.

http://www.carid.com/2007-ford-focus...FZRj7AodqnoAlA

The top light is the reverse light. So there is no need for the double filament bulbs (3157/4157). It is only 3156, either on or off.

The bottom bulb has to be double-filament and is my tail/stop/blinker light bulb. I've always purchased 4157 sylvania bulbs for it.
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