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Old 04-01-2012, 10:17 PM   #21
Yanner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5.0 Junkie View Post
Can you set the EQ by ear or should you use a db meter and some test tracks? I just want a flat signal coming out so that all frequencies play as they should.
I don't have a db meter and I didn't use test tracks, other than material I've been listening to for years on a variety of systems. So I think it depends on you, your ear, your taste, your experience and patience.
With the EQ flat and the amp's gains and cross overs near their nominal values, I'm finding the sound to be full and dynamic with no dips in the spectrum. It'll be only minor tweaking from here, if any. It's also important to note that I built my sub enclosure exactly to the driver's specifications.
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Old 04-04-2012, 09:05 AM   #22
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Amp Temperature

I was just wondering if you have had any over heating problems after having the amp under the floor mat for a while now
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Old 04-04-2012, 08:24 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Yanner View Post
I find that they sound great, and I still haven't done much tweaking w/ the LCQ-1. Almost anything is a step up from the stockers, but I'm finding the Polks to have excellent range and volume with the power I am feeding them (50rms) crossed over at 80 hz.
Yeah I thought they definitely had the best range for the money. Thanks for the input. Did the crossovers fit alright in the spots Ford gave us?
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Old 04-06-2012, 09:16 PM   #24
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I've currently got a 6-speaker OEM setup in my SE. Unlike the OP, who got a component setup for the front and a simple pair of two-ways in the back, I ordered two sets of two-ways. I was thinking about installing these and disconnecting the tweeters, thus downconverting the 6-speaker to a 4-speaker system (for now). My question is:

1.) Do you think I'd be better off leaving the OEM tweeters hooked up?
2.) If I don't end up using tweeters, will I run into any impedance issues? From the way the wiring is described by other posters, it sounds like the OEM 6.5"s and tweeters are wired in parallel, meaning the head unit is driving 2 ohms of impedance. If I only install the 6.5"s I bought on the front circuit, this would be 4 ohms of impedance and would sound quiet, comparatively. Right? I can't imagine this is an issue because I doubt that Ford modifies the OEM head unit power output specs based on whether somebody chooses the 6-speaker vs. the 4-speaker option-- I would think they just slap the tweeters on there.
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Old 04-09-2012, 12:21 PM   #25
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Hey I love your build, I used to have those shallow mount subs in my Ranger...love em, but now I'm doing something similar in my 2012 Focus sedan....what did you use for the remote input on the LCQ? I can't for the life of me find the remote wire...help!!
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Old 04-09-2012, 03:50 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bwill9886 View Post
Yeah I thought they definitely had the best range for the money. Thanks for the input. Did the crossovers fit alright in the spots Ford gave us?
Yes, tons of room for them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HatWobble View Post
I've currently got a 6-speaker OEM setup in my SE. Unlike the OP, who got a component setup for the front and a simple pair of two-ways in the back, I ordered two sets of two-ways. I was thinking about installing these and disconnecting the tweeters, thus downconverting the 6-speaker to a 4-speaker system (for now). My question is:

1.) Do you think I'd be better off leaving the OEM tweeters hooked up?
2.) If I don't end up using tweeters, will I run into any impedance issues? From the way the wiring is described by other posters, it sounds like the OEM 6.5"s and tweeters are wired in parallel, meaning the head unit is driving 2 ohms of impedance. If I only install the 6.5"s I bought on the front circuit, this would be 4 ohms of impedance and would sound quiet, comparatively. Right? I can't imagine this is an issue because I doubt that Ford modifies the OEM head unit power output specs based on whether somebody chooses the 6-speaker vs. the 4-speaker option-- I would think they just slap the tweeters on there.
Impedance aside, I don't I'd want to mix quality aftermarket speakers with the OEM stuff. Will you be driving these with an amp. It's been reported a few times in this forum (and I experienced first hand before getting my amplifier in) that aftermarket speakers on the stock head unit will do little to improve sound.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blake2012 View Post
Hey I love your build, I used to have those shallow mount subs in my Ranger...love em, but now I'm doing something similar in my 2012 Focus sedan....what did you use for the remote input on the LCQ? I can't for the life of me find the remote wire...help!!
Using speaker level input on the LCQ-1 for automatic turn on, which triggers the remote out to the amp. This is a temporary solution, as I'm getting in turn on/off thump. I posted in RaiderBonez's thread about what his installer did, and also emailed him but have not heard back. This could be of some help (yellow/purple) http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/s...32&postcount=7
One of the things I'd like to retain is the 1 hour mode, being able to use the stereo without the key in the ignition. If anything, it's nice to listen to the radio while detailing the car without it chiming because the driver's door is open!
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Old 04-09-2012, 06:11 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yanner View Post
Impedance aside, I don't I'd want to mix quality aftermarket speakers with the OEM stuff. Will you be driving these with an amp. It's been reported a few times in this forum (and I experienced first hand before getting my amplifier in) that aftermarket speakers on the stock head unit will do little to improve sound.
That was the plan for now. If it still sounds inadequate with just the speakers then I'll need to invest in an amp as well.
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Old 04-16-2012, 06:26 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HatWobble View Post
That was the plan for now. If it still sounds inadequate with just the speakers then I'll need to invest in an amp as well.
So I spent this Sunday installing the Polk db651s coaxials in the front door panels. While there is a marked improvement in the sound quality, it's still not where I want it to be, especially with the lack of low end. I'm thinking I'm going to have to go the amp/sub route. I'll also probably return the other pair of db651s's and grab a Polk component set and move the db651s's I've already installed in the front doors to the rear doors.
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Old 04-16-2012, 09:17 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by HatWobble View Post
So I spent this Sunday installing the Polk db651s coaxials in the front door panels. While there is a marked improvement in the sound quality, it's still not where I want it to be, especially with the lack of low end. I'm thinking I'm going to have to go the amp/sub route. I'll also probably return the other pair of db651s's and grab a Polk component set and move the db651s's I've already installed in the front doors to the rear doors.
Hi HW,
You'll still have volume based equalization (bass roll off) from the head unit even if you add an amp and sub, so I'm not sure if adding an amp and sub will be adequate. This is why many of us are using sound processors meant for OEM integration.
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Old 04-17-2012, 07:25 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yanner View Post
Hi HW,
You'll still have volume based equalization (bass roll off) from the head unit even if you add an amp and sub, so I'm not sure if adding an amp and sub will be adequate. This is why many of us are using sound processors meant for OEM integration.
I'm starting to look at the LC6i to solve this, as it seems others have been happy with it.

Quick question for you--

I'm looking at a the Polk components speakers for the front as well. They are rated at a max RMS of 100W. That Alpine 5-channel amp in your install is only rated at 60W per channel; has that been an issue for you, or does it still sound great?

Thanks for the help. I'm a newbie at all of this stuff.
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