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Old 03-13-2012, 10:12 PM   #1
bumble21
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torque specs for valve cover bolts?

snapped the head of one of my valve cover bolts into my header...really stupid. (never work on your car when your in a bad mood >.<) but anyways i just got a torque wrench was wondering what the specs were for the bolts. and if anyone had a idea on how to get the snapped heads out? i am planning on using an easy out cause i cant think of any other way to get them out...i just wanna make sure i dont damage my header


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Old 03-13-2012, 10:19 PM   #2
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Valve cover bolts into header?
VC bolts torque to 60 in-lbs (5 lb-fts).
Are you talking about the exhaust heat shield bolts, maybe? Or exhaust manifold mounting studs?
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Old 03-13-2012, 10:26 PM   #3
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Yeah valve cover bolts into header. I changed out the gasket and was getting raises in rmps when i let the clutch in because there was a vacuum leak. The valve cover wasnt tightened enough so air was getting in. My car shut out when i was like 5 mins away from my house. I got pissed took out my ratchet and just tightened em all up a little and without realizing it snapped two of the bolts. I heard the third one snap and flipped out and just drove it home slowly...now the valve cover is off I had to get new bolts from the dealership because no one else sells them. So now i have 7 bolts instead of 10 and 3 heads in the threads of the top of the header
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Old 03-13-2012, 10:33 PM   #4
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I think you mean cylinder head.
You should ask on here for bolts like that (if you don't need them super urgently, I guess.) I have several VC bolts and I'm sure other guys here do from valve cover swaps.
Do you still need them?
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Old 03-13-2012, 10:38 PM   #5
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ohh yeah i do, im sorry i dont know much about engines yet, just suspension, brakes, and easy stuff lol. I do mean the cylinder head, what the camshafts sit in right under the valve cover. Im picking them up tomorrow morning, a buck a piece from ford so not that bad. Just getting the snapped heads out is going to be a pain i think. So the torque specs are 60 in lbs? i just wanna make sure i dont over torque again and have to go through this again...it really sucks
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Old 03-13-2012, 10:51 PM   #6
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Yes, 60 in-lbs i.e. a bit over hand tight, snug, not reefed on (as you found out). If you overtighten, you'll damage the sealing gasket as well.
If the bolt heads are broken flush with the head surface, try an "Easy-out" or something similar.
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Old 03-15-2012, 03:15 PM   #7
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Ive been trying to drill into the bolts but the bits keep burning or breaking. Is there a specific bit i need to use because the bolts are made of a certain type of metal? this has been just another headache lol. I called the ford dealership to see what they'd charge and they said it'd be 200 bucks =/
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Old 03-19-2012, 10:27 PM   #8
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There is no torque on VC bolts, you simply run them in till they hit solid and stop. They are shoulder bolts, tightening them tighter does nothing but break them. That's why the 'torque' number is so low.
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Old 03-19-2012, 11:16 PM   #9
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Getting those small broken bolts out can be difficult, I've got half a drawer in my LARGE toolbox devoted to tools for removing broken bolts....

On the other hand, those AREN'T rusted in - cross threaded - or run in 'till they are "locked" in place. SO anything that will turn them OUT will help...

For example, I have a set of BACKWARDS drill bits that twist LEFT, so as soon as they start to get a grip on the bolt they run it right out...

"Cobalt" drill bits are the MINIMUM these days for actually drilling a hole for an easy out, and you might use up one bit for each stuck bolt...

Sometimes with the small bolts like that you end up with a "crescent" left in the hole, because the bit NEVER seems to drill a centered hole. Picks & pliers will remove the residue, then you need to tap the hole to clean up the threads.

Worst case scenario, the hole gets totally "buggered", so you just drill it out larger for a Helicoil....

Then it's stronger than it was originally, so no worries...

Luck!
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Old 03-20-2012, 01:17 AM   #10
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Yep, generally that type bolt barely in there. Thinking carefully about how to get it started moving out often makes the day. You got plenty of time to just butcher it later. Often the very FIRST move done guarantees success or dooms the job. Once the top bolt thread is seized into the base material you've had it.
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