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Old 03-03-2012, 04:40 PM   #11
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This came from Hot Rod magazine-can't remember if it was online or in an issue but you can use 50/50 mix of synthetic oil and STP oil treatment. I have also heard of 50/50 mix of ATF and STP. Anyone chime in on this practice? I used the syn/STP on Zetec cams and never had any issues.
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Old 03-03-2012, 06:11 PM   #12
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The 50/50 STP and oil is kind of old school - like me LOL. The point, as stated above is to have something that will stick to the parts until you have a good oil flow. Also, as stated above, these days I'd just use any name brand assembly lube. You just spent how much on your rebuild; come up with a few more bucks to protect those parts during the first start.
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Old 03-03-2012, 06:36 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drostedrummer89 View Post
Personally I'd use a ford assembly lube, or any standard name brand. I also would not spend oodles of money on ultra high performance race power NOS impregnated assembly lube (lol) but a reputable brand will be fine. Get a cheapo jug of conventional 5w30, you're only running it for a few minutes then draining it all out anyway. I would say any filter other than fram is good for the first few startups, the price difference between fram and motorcraft is negligable, but the difference in quality is almost exponential.

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I have heard stories about the assembly lube not "integrating" into the motor oil and causing blockages in the oil passages. Want to make sure I get something that will work well. I have heard the STP and motor oil but it may be a few months until i get everything put back together and the STP / oil sounds like it will be to thin....

Also you say I am only running the oil for a few min... don't you put 500 miles on the first go around of oil? I have done some big block work before on a 460 drag engine and you let it idle for so long at first start-up, and then a higher idle for so long and then change the oil. do you do the same thing with the focus?

i.e. Turn on engine, let run 15 min at idle, 15 min at 3K rpm. drain oil and filter. Fill with oil, drive "slow" first 500 miles, change oil. Drive regularly till 2k miles. After 2k miles on new engine, O.K to beat on??

Regardless of the assembly lube it looks like you can get most about anything for under $10. so I think I will just get a good name brand thick lube and same brand thinner liquid assembly lube and call it a day.

Also some lubes specifically say not for pistons.... should I use a unique oil for that or just use a thinner assembly lube as I had mentioned above?

Thank you for all the help!!!!
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Old 03-04-2012, 07:21 PM   #14
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i would certainly use that startup technique. Start and hold at an elevated idle for 10-15 minutes, then shut her down and change the oil.

Wouldnt coating the cylinder walls with oil be fine? I don't know all the procedures for fresh startups. I certainly will soon, mine will be installed in the next month or so.

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Old 03-04-2012, 08:24 PM   #15
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Coat all bearing surfaces in whatever assembly lube you can find at a parts store. It really doesn't matter.

Coat the cylinder walls in clean engine oil, not assembly lube.

Prime the engine by cranking it over without fuel/spark as described above till oil pressure is built

Run engine till it is up to operating temperature.

Take car out and drive it being sure to take it up to 3-4k RPM (not racing it, just slowly taking it up to that point) and once at those RPMs releasing the throttle fully and let the engine slow the car down. This builds vacuum in the cylinders and helps seat the rings against the cylinder walls.
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Old 03-22-2012, 03:30 AM   #16
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Most of the above ideas will work fine EXCEPT for the one guy who wants something like 'thick' grease. That is a mistake. You want something that is tough while being thin, it blocks oil holes until it gets blown through them. Think about thick grease plugging oil passages. Great way to blow your stuff up and quick. The lube must be thick enough to not run out of a bearing by itself yet thin enough to easily pump through small oil holes and the last quality, it must break down to oil itself virtually instantly so it becomes transparent to the oil system. You don't want clumps of it clogging your fresh clean oil pickup tube. I've used #105 Lubriplate in tube for many many years and no need for anything fancier. The STP/oil mix is good too.

Moly lube goes on cam lobes and tappet wear points. It was made specifically for that sliding scrubbing contact encountered there. No need anywhere else in motor. Left in oil it causes detonation so go light if turbo motor. On the many drag cars we built we ran it for the cam break-in period (20 min.) then changed oil to get it out.

ALWAYS if possible prime oil pump up to pressure before lighting the sucker up. We made priming tools out of old derelict distributors for the motors we did. Pump run up and motor turned over by hand on engine stand to fully fill all oil galleries. I guess on these motors you have to motor engine with starter to get pressure up since crank drives pump.

Last edited by amc49; 03-22-2012 at 09:12 PM.
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Old 03-22-2012, 03:39 AM   #17
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Looking back over thread I see an error. You NEVER let a brand new motor idle! Bring it up to say 2500 rpm and leave it there for at least 20 minutes. A lot of camshaft lubing is by splash only and idle is too damn slow for that. If your engine building skills are in order the most failure prone part of a new engine is the camshaft lobe to tappet interface............I have seen more cam failures than I care to count simply because someone let it idle before cam wore in right. It's almost certain death with bigger flat tappet cams. We would pull 2 of the 3 springs out of spring stack and break in cam with just one spring, then assemble the other 2 back after the 2500 rpm 20 min. run. That to prevent cams going flat with say .650" lift. That's whopping huge for a flat tappet cam.
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Old 03-22-2012, 03:57 AM   #18
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Yes use regular oil on pistons. I've heard stuff about people doing 'drystart' on rings to help them break in. That's sheer stupidity. I lube up every part touching area. You don't need moly lube unless higher sprung cams used. The valvespring load is what kills the cam. DON'T let it idle though. If moly in oil, change after 20 min. run, if not, first oil change around 50 miles then second at 500. Look at the oil in strong sunlight and all the gold glitter you'll see is from motor parts getting familiar with each other. You don't want that first startup oil in the motor for 500 miles.

Take car out and load rings like jetrinka says above. Don't run high rpm and don't stay at a constant rpm either. Alternately load motor off/on, getting into throttle pretty good but not full power. You're loading ring to wear in then back off to flood them with oil splash to cool off the extra friction of still being new. Consider the rings bedded in 90% after first 30-40 min. of operation, if not the ending hone job was not right.

I lost count of motors built at 100+ long ago, and have never lost one to break-in problems.
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Old 03-22-2012, 07:21 AM   #19
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I would like to add that it is very important that the bearing surfaces be COMPLETELY free of any oil before installing the bearings. Same goes for the connecting rods. I use brake parts cleaner and spray the block and connecting rods to remove any oily residue. I also wear surgical gloves and only touch the bearings while wearing these. After you plastigage for clearance, pull crank out of block and apply your assembly lube. Any brand is o.k all others are just hype. I personally use a moly based lube from NAPA. I like to run the engine for about 50 miles and then dump the oil and put some mobil one and a new filter. Amsoil is crap. Motorcraft filters ONLY!
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Old 03-22-2012, 08:15 AM   #20
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pbfoot, so to make sure and this is what I had thought.... block to bearing no assembly lube, bearing to crank assembly lube (after plastiguage). Then crank to rod bearing assembly lube (after plastigauge) bearing to connecting rod no assembly lube.

AMC49, I am using the stock cams on the stock tappets so I am not sure how much more of a brake in on the cams are needed with the re-install....
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