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Old 02-15-2012, 01:17 PM   #1
nickstewartroc
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Idea for aftermarket HU in a 2011

I hadn't realized until I went to buy an aftermarket HU for my 2011, that you need a 65 dollar adapter since ford decided to use the CAN bus for ACC/Switched power. I found using a google search that the pinout of the original HU pinout is

Code:
2011 Ford Focus Car Stereo Wiring Diagram
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: White/Red
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: This vehicle uses the can data network for accessory turn on.
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black/Blue
Car Radio Illumination Wire: This vehicle uses the can data network for illumination controls.
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: This vehicle uses the can data network for dimmer controls.
Car Stereo Amp Turn-On Trigger Wire: Violet/Red
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Brown
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Violet
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Orange
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Green
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown/White
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Blue


So what I see is that really the only thing needed by the CAN bus is the switched power. Illumination is not needed, nor is the dimmer needed. Is there somewhere to splice in for non-CAN bus switched power? I guess technically you could use a relay on the ignition switch.
Thanks,
Nick



Last edited by nickstewartroc; 02-15-2012 at 03:25 PM. Reason: Added Picture!
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Old 02-15-2012, 02:08 PM   #2
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If you're asking about having a switch you can turn on/off, then just use the constant 12V+ from the HU and run a switch inline with it. I personally use the Pioneer AVIC-x930BT in my 2011 and I love it. I kept SYNC so my adapter was a little more expensive, but I put it in myself and it was actually pretty simple.

If you're asking about how to use it for the HU's wires, then the harness should do that for you. Mine switched all the data wires and everything and put them color-coded for the output to easily wire up my HU, amps, etc.
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Old 02-15-2012, 02:09 PM   #3
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Wait, so you used the PAC Ford Radio Replacement Interface or no?
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Old 02-15-2012, 02:13 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by nickstewartroc View Post
Wait, so you used the PAC Ford Radio Replacement Interface or no?
Yes, I used the PAC Audio MS-FRD1 for the harness, Metra 99-5816 for the dash kit, and Axxess ASWC for the steering wheel controls.
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Old 02-15-2012, 02:16 PM   #5
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Ahh, See I'm trying to figure out if I can basically just use a switch from the constant 12V+ and not have to buy that adapter
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Old 02-15-2012, 02:18 PM   #6
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I used those for my HU. You can use a switch if you really want to turn it on/off manually every time. I was thinking about my amplifiers in the trunk. I used a switch from the 12V+ constant for those instead of the remote from the Pioneer since I have multiple ones.
If you use a switch, you use a constant 12V+. If you do that, you will not be able to use the illumination, parking, dimmer wires either since the device transfers those into usable wires.
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Old 02-15-2012, 02:20 PM   #7
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See that's where I was thinking instead of a switch, if you could run a relay, say from the window motor since it gets power when the ACC is on, and it's straight switched power, no CAN bus
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Old 02-15-2012, 02:25 PM   #8
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I assume you could do that with the window motor, but I wouldn't. You can always wire it to the ignition and that will give you a switched power. Although using it for a HU it will draw more current than the ignition should be providing. In my opinion, the way you are trying to do this is wrong. You will end up with something going wrong just to save a few bucks for the adapter.
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Old 02-15-2012, 02:29 PM   #9
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I wasn't actually going to use the window motor, it was just as an example
As for drawing off the ignition switch, that's where the relay comes in, basically instead of spending $70 on an adapter, I'll pay the 70 cents for a relay
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Old 02-15-2012, 02:34 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickstewartroc View Post
I wasn't actually going to use the window motor, it was just as an example
As for drawing off the ignition switch, that's where the relay comes in, basically instead of spending $70 on an adapter, I'll pay the 70 cents for a relay
I just think the ignition wire could possibly be too small for the current demands of the aftermarket HU. It should work though if you do it that way. I guess if it doesn't you're only out 70 cents and can just get the adapter after that lol
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