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Old 06-30-2013, 02:26 AM   #1
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What does heat soak feel like?

Okay, I know what heat soak is and understand why people try to avoid it, but what exactly does heat soak feel like? I recently purchased a 2004 SVTF to replace my wrecked '02 SVT, and the PE had installed a Steeda SRI. When ever I'm driving through town the car feels very laggy and unresponsive, and sometimes seems to have the occasional hiccup of sorts. All the Focus' I have owned previously had either stock airboxes or CAI's on them. My '02 SVT had the AEM CAI and my original '00 zetec had an Injen CAI, never have I before experienced a Short Ram Intake or its heat soak issues.


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Old 06-30-2013, 02:38 AM   #2
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First off , I need to know what heat soak is .
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Old 06-30-2013, 02:41 AM   #3
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^mentions it here http://www.redline360.com/garage/col...hich-is-better
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Old 06-30-2013, 03:00 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burnie View Post
First off , I need to know what heat soak is .
From that particular article
Quote:
What is heat soak?
Heat soak is when your intake piping becomes so hot, the piping heats up the air going into your engine, decreasing engine performance. A good intake system is built from material such as aluminum that doesn't allow the piping to get hot enough to hurt performance.
However it does not go on to explain what heat soak feels like, which is what I would like to know.
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Old 06-30-2013, 03:40 AM   #5
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I know- sorry- I was answering for burnie. I have no idea what it feels like... I was trying to look it up after you asked. I can't imagine it would be much different from how a car feels on a reall hot day in moderate traffic though. Bit rougher, perhaps a touch sluggish. Just a guess, but I wouldn't think heat soak could be the main culprit of what you discribed. I'm sure someone who knows more will chime in bevause i could be completely wrong... But it sounds more like an air restriction... Not sure where from- did the filter need to be treated or some such? Perhaps something with the MAF put it in limp mode?

In my experience, what you discribe is limp mode... I've had that on a completely different car because of the MAF sensor- a VW TDI, it acted the same way... Could be a bad connection, or faulty MAF... On the TDI I never had a CEL because of it either.
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Old 06-30-2013, 04:04 AM   #6
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you've pretty much described it, the engine looses power with the hot air it pulls in and you mix that with everything going on in the engine, spark, detonation etc
and your timing will change

which will make your car sluggish

prolonged heat soak will give you engine grief down the road
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Old 06-30-2013, 04:14 AM   #7
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Oh... Well there you go. Now I know too...
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Old 06-30-2013, 04:41 AM   #8
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loss of power due to high heat. higher heat = less dense air = less air = less combustion = less power. it feels like driving down the road at 30 mph on a really hot day and the limit increases to 40 and you pound it down to open throttle and all you get is put put put put.
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Old 06-30-2013, 01:14 PM   #9
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Pretty damn silly to say aluminum is a good material to use there, aluminum absorbs heat VERY quickly, or why used on motorcycle engine castings. Plastic is better there by far, conducts heat slower. Or insulate the metal pipe even better.

TRUE heat soak means taking a vehicle up to full temperature and then parking it for a certain time and then coming back to restart and see what effect the 'soaking' in heat with no movement of vehicle has on restart and the vehicle running right after that. The term developed by manufacturers for purposes of carb testing for fuel boiling in bowls and vapor lock and cooling system pressure test issues. A misuse of the term if describing normal running around with no stops. The stop is what makes it a soak. Or if you have a mechanical water temp gauge, watch the gauge for the few minutes after car is shut off. The water temp goes up a great deal, the soak is happening then. Note how many old radiator hoses can pop right then.

You use the word 'soak' for when you walk off for a while to let something sit, usually in a liquid. It sits still while doing that, not moving. In this case you're soaking the car in its' own heat.

Just goes to show you, you can claim to know your sh-t and still be full of it. A great internet website does not change that.
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Old 06-30-2013, 02:13 PM   #10
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Heat soak is when an object has become charged with heat to the point that it can't effectively reduce the temperature of fluid/gas that flows through it. It is generally most applicable to intercoolers on FI cars. The reason that aluminum is good for this is because not only does it build heat quickly-it dissipates heat quickly. This is mostly notable when compared to metals such as steel, which hold heat for a much longer period of time. There is a reason that manufacturers have gone from steel blocks/heads to aluminum-and heat soak is it. It allows the dissipation of heat to occur much more quickly and makes it a durable, efficient, and inexpensive option for cooling purposes.

In NA cars, people use heat soak to describe the sluggishness feeling of a car after it has been running at operating temperature and is stuck in stop-and-go traffic (or similar), where the vehicle cannot cool itself effectively. As the temperature under the hood builds up, these fluids/gases/solids lose efficiency in their ability to combust fuel. The higher temperatures cause combustion chamber temperatures to rise, which essentially causes the fuel to become closer to combustion earlier in the compression cycle. The only combatant to that is to remove timing and/or fuel introduction in order to reduce knock/pinging and leads to the vehicle feeling sluggish. The vehicle can run safely, but not optimally, which results in lag, sluggishness, and an overall 'unresponsive' feeling.

Generally speaking, a SRI isn't feeling heat-soak per se-it is simply drawing a higher temperature air into the inlet. They are a cheap way to dress-up an engine, but far from being 'optimal' in helping an engine run correctly and/or efficiently. It is better to have a SRI with a heat shield than just an open SRI, but in normal everyday driving it is always better to either have a true CAI or a closed-system box (which is usually still technically a CAI as it usually draws its intake charge from ambient locations).
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