Help me make a How To on Making Your Own Wiring Harness For Cruise Control (smart people with wiring diagrams apply within) - Page 3 - Ford Focus Forum, Ford Focus ST Forum
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Old 12-28-2012, 09:43 PM   #21
Lscman
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After performing this conversion on an 07, not much to add. On ALL Duratec cars '07 and older, I believe the servo mounts in front of the battery behind the drivers headlight. Info is a bit sketchy on 05 and older duratec pzev's, but I believe they are much like 07's. The Duratec throttle body and intake is mounted in front of the engine instead of behind it. The mechanical cable loops downward under the intake and takes a 180 loop back toward the throttle body mounting point.

The servo and cable is unique to duratec cars. The hardware & wiring inside the car is very similar for 00 thru 07. Later duratec cars seem to have a clockspring that's cruise ready. This was always true in 2007. You can buy a '05 to '07 steering wheel with cruise switches on ebay. I paid $50 for a leather ST wheel and it fit nice on my strippo 07 S car. The wiring harness is fairly simple, about 12 wires. My '07 already had the green interlock switch on the pedal assy.
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Old 12-29-2012, 10:41 AM   #22
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I would like to note an error in prior documentation that needs corrected for later year applications.

A running change was made in the clock spring that affects pin outs. I don't have enough wiring diagrams to determine the year that this change was made. It may be prior to 2005, I don't know. In any event, my 2007 clock spring uses pin 3 to feed battery positive power to the steering wheel cruise control switches. It is not pin 6 in a 2007 Focus, as might be assumed from reading the posted wiring diagrams and tables. The color of the pin 3 wire is still green with yellow stripe, so folks splicing wires based upon color and ignoring pin#'s should have no issues. Of course, a green-yellow color is also used on both sides of the brake switch and this doesn't help much lol.
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Old 12-30-2012, 01:07 PM   #23
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wondering if you guys could tell me if my cruise control buttons/switches gets power or is routed trough the factory stereo? I installed a aftermarket deck and lost cruise if i put the factory deck back in and get cruise back this has led me to believe that my cruise must be getting power from my factory deck if so is it possible to just cut that wire and power the cruise from another source any help would be great.
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Old 01-10-2013, 03:50 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackzx4 View Post
wondering if you guys could tell me if my cruise control buttons/switches gets power or is routed trough the factory stereo? I installed a aftermarket deck and lost cruise if i put the factory deck back in and get cruise back this has led me to believe that my cruise must be getting power from my factory deck if so is it possible to just cut that wire and power the cruise from another source any help would be great.
sounds more like you wired the stereo wrong because the power sources are totally separate. A $3 voltmeter can confirm power to the cruise system. The original radio has a vehicle speed input to provide dynamic volume and you probably wired the stereo wrong causing it to short. This will kill the cruise because this same circuit is used for cruise. Maybe get a wiring diagram on ebay for $10 and you will see every wire the two circuits have in common
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Old 08-21-2013, 07:21 PM   #25
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For those like me that bought the factory kit only to find out that your cruise control light does not function after it is installed, I would like to share what I did about it. I just couldn’t accept my light not working. In fact, I consider the light not functioning to be a safety issue…but maybe that’s just me. Here’s how I did it:

1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Unhook the speed control cable from the throttle body (this makes it easier to get the cable off the servo). Leave the cable housing attached to the bracket.
3. Remove the speed control actuator cable from the servo by pressing in on the lock and rotating counterclockwise about 1/8 turn. Pressing the spring holding the cable onto the actuator pulley will help to get the cable completely off.
4. Disconnect the servo wire harness.
5. Remove the servo from the firewall.
6. Drill a 1/8” hole in the back of the servo harness connector at the pin 1 position. You will feel the drill go through the black plastic and then through the inner white plastic.
7. Pry outwards on the red locking bar on the servo connector with a small screwdriver and remove.
8. Trim off the tab on the red bar and also the black tab in the pin 1 position (an X-Acto knife works well for this). This makes room for the wire in the next step. Insert the red bar back into the connector.
9. Run the end of a wire (18 to 22 gauge should work fine) about 7 ft. long through the back of the servo connector pin 1 position. Pull enough wire through the connector to do the next step.
10. Solder the wire to pin 1 on the servo on the side next to the connector latch. You can bend the tab down slightly to make this easier, but straighten it back up after soldering. Don’t wrap the wire around the tab because there is not enough room.
11. Reinstall the servo on the firewall.
12. Reattach the servo wire harness to the servo. Pull the wire attached to pin 1 of the servo out the back of the connector while doing this.
13. Feed the new wire down the harness going through the firewall and into the interior.
14. Apply sealant (i.e. silicone) to the back of the servo connector around the new wire.
15. Reattach both ends of the servo speed control cable.
16. Remove the instrument cluster.
17. Solder the new wire to pin 4 on the instrument cluster connector as shown at the first of this thread (I attached mine on the backside of the board on the trace next to the bulb instead of on the connector, but either will work). Tie-wrap the wire to the instrument cluster and leave enough slack in the wire to allow for servicing the cluster.
18. Reinstall the instrument cluster.
19. Reconnect the battery.
20. Enjoy the light!
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