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Old 01-20-2012, 01:58 PM   #11
Duratec 2.3
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I got the day off, I will come hang out with everyone

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Old 01-20-2012, 02:02 PM   #12
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I thought I had copied all the rules but I guess I missed a bunch, here it is:

Approved racing slicks are permitted, as well as street legal DOT approved treaded tires, front and rear required on all vehicles. Tires will be inspected for overall condition.

Wheels
All wheel studs, with lug nuts required. Broken or missing studs/lugs must be replaced before racing. Hub caps/wheel covers must be removed for inspection.

Lines & Hoses
All fuel, transmission, brake and power steering lines must be secure and free of leaks. Neoprene fuel lines limited to 12 overall.

Radiator
Overflow catch tank (16 oz. minimum) mandatory on all vehicles and no leaks.
Driver: Must have valid state driver's license. Driver & Passenger: No shorts, bare legs, tank-tops, bare torsos, or bare feet permitted when racing. (Insurance Requirement).

Helmet
Required in all vehicles faster than 13.99 seconds. Helmet must meet SNELL 2000 or better standards (must have label inside of helmet). NOTE: In January 2012 the requirement will be SNELL 2005 or better.

Seats
Must be securely fastened to floor or frame with minimum 4 attaching bolt and nuts. No sheet metal screws.

Seat Belts
All cars and trucks must have as a minimum an O.E.M. type lap belt system, securely mounted to frame or floor.

Batteries & Ballast
Batteries must be secured per O.E.M. or with minimum of two (2) 3/8 diameter bolts (no straps, bungee cords, wire, etc). Loose ballast is not permitted on the racetrack, so be prepared to empty trunks and interiors of all loose items. Spare tires, jacks, etc. must be securely mounted or must be removed. Tools, jack stands, coolers, loose speakers, wheel covers, etc. are considered loose ballast and are not permitted on the track. If you don't need it, or don't want to leave it unattended, leave it at home.

Neutral Safety Switch
All vehicles must be equipped with an operational neutral safety switch. The neutral safety switch prevents the vehicle's starter from turning the engine over unless the transmission is in park or neutral (or unless the clutch pedal is depressed with a manual transmission).

Nitrous Oxide: Bottles must be stamped as meeting DOT 1800-pound standards and must be securely bolted to the frame or floor (no bungee cords, hose clamps, etc.) All fittings, hoses, etc. must be compatible from same manufacturer, vented to outside of driver compartment.

Roll Bars & Cages
Roll bar required in any vehicle running between 10.00 and 11.49 E.T. (convertibles between 11.00 and 13.99). Roll bar/cage structures must meet minimum NHRA standards as found in the 2004 rulebook.

Motorcycles
Must be registered for the street, front and rear brakes, chain guards, ignition cutoff switch, and functioning snapback throttle mandatory. Any pressurized container (air shifter bottles, nitrous bottles) must be stamped as DOT 1800 pound standards. Leather jacket, gloves and leather (above ankle) shoes mandatory (up to 120 mph; over this speed full leather is required).

Convertibles
All racers participating with convertibles that are quicker than 13.99 seconds MUST wear a helmet.

Note: When elapsed times are quicker than 11.99 specialized racing equipment is required. For example, when a roll bar or cage is required, so is an approved 5-point harness assembly. If you know or suspect that your vehicle will exceed these ET limits, we suggest contacting the NHRA Tech Department at (626) 914-4761 with your questions.

After Tech Inspection
Move your car forward and walk to the "Tech Registration booth" where you will sign a release of liability, get your restricted area wristband and run card. Once you have completed registration, return to your car to have your number applied to your windows. You may now find yourself a pit location (10 X 20) max per car.

Hear the Call
Tune your car radio to 104.7 FM for the PA announcements. All categories will be called to the staging lanes in groups of 50. The group number is on your run card. Please DO NOT come to the lanes until your category is called. Be sure to bring your RUN CARD and have all safety items in place with seat belts on. Also, leave all loose items out of the vehicle.

Staging Lanes
When you are called to the lanes, go to the back of the staging lanes and you will be directed to a lane. At the front of the lane you will be asked for your RUN CARD, get it punched and proceed as directed.

Burn-Out/Staging
You will be directed to the water box where a 5 second burn-out is permitted. On the staring line official's signal, roll your car forward until the top two small yellow bulbs on your side of the tree are lit. STOP. You are now staged and ready. When the tree is activated, you will see 3 amber bulbs flash .500 seconds apart then GREEN. Try to leave on the last amber bulb for a better reaction time but be careful not to leave too early or you will red-light.

Finish Line
After crossing the finish line, let off the gas slowly and apply the brakes. Stay in your lane and exit at one of the two (2) exits available, the right lane should exit first even though you may have to wait on them. If you feel you cannot make the first turn off to your right safely, go to the next exit at the end of the track. DO NOT DO A U-TURN ON THE TRACK.

Quiet Please
In our continued efforts to be good neighbors, we will be enforcing our zero tolerance policy for decimeter readings over the limit. Please be considerate of what our neighbors think of us when leaving the facility. Drive Safely!!


Rich
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Old 01-20-2012, 05:18 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by focuztyle View Post
Why? It's fun and you can see where your car stands at and see the changes as you upgrade and how it affects you at the track.


Rich
Maintenance wise, not performance wise. I've got an oil leak, coolant leak, all four springs are sagging, front struts are blown. Hell, my car's in the shop today getting the Brake Master Cylinder replaced which is costing me $400 so hopefully I can even drive down there haha.
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Old 01-20-2012, 05:26 PM   #14
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Oh damn?! I'm sorry to hear that. I just sold TWO sets of suspension in the last week, bruh. Do you need help doing any work yourself? Post it up if you do and have us over with enough time to plan ahead.


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Old 01-20-2012, 05:29 PM   #15
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Well I plan on "riding it out" when it comes to the suspension.. (no pun intended lol) No point in spending $300+ for brand new SVT Springs, Struts, & Shocks when in a couple of months I'll be upgrading to coilovers anyways. Which when I do, I'm definitely gonna need some help!
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Old 01-20-2012, 10:33 PM   #16
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Definetely!


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Old 01-21-2012, 08:25 AM   #17
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I will be there
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Old 01-21-2012, 08:26 AM   #18
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Old 01-21-2012, 08:28 AM   #19
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Hey rich u need to fix that broken wheel stud also!
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Old 01-21-2012, 10:59 AM   #20
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I know, huh? I have 2 weeks todo it, and I already have the part; so I just have get to it one night. It'll be done, cuz I saw that in the rules too lol


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