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How to cut a fuel pump access panel/door.

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249K views 83 replies 40 participants last post by  Twofeathers  
#1 ·
Here is how i decided to do it and more importantly how i was able to make a door to cover the hole afterwards.

This is what the area looks like. It is located under the passenger side of the rear seat.

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Area marked off to be removed.

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For cutting i used a Dremel and their reinforced cutting wheels. Only used 1 1/2 wheels to cut the panel out, just have to go slow. I just marked my lines then went over them slowly working through the metal. In the above pics you can see i already started cutting the one side.

Here is the piece once all cuts are made.

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Take notice to the slit cut from the harness hole to the side. This allows the harness to be removed from the panel you cut. Had to do this because you won't be able to reach all the connectors to pull the harness through the hole.

Take note to this evap line which was not snapped into the groove on top of the tank were it suppossed to be. i knicked this and put a small hole in it that i patched with some rtv sealant.

Not in the groove.
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In the groove after i snapped it back in there.
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Here is the hole itself and as you can see the fuel pump module that you now have easy access to.

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Now you will need to clean all of the dirt and grime off of the whole area before opening it up. Don't want to get any of this into the tank. For this i used a nylon brush and shop vac.

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Now to make a door i went to a local salvage yard and cut out the floor pan area above the fuel tank. I cut it over sized so that i would be able to trim it to fit.

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There is some under coating/sound deadner on the underside that will need to be removed. I just used a propane torch and burnt it off.

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I then used the piece i cut out of the car as a template and traced that onto the piece i got from the salvage yard. I trimmed it 1" bigger than what i cut the piece out of the car. this left me with a flange area that i could then use to re-secure it to the car. i ordered some 1/4-20 rivet nuts from mcmaster-carr. Layed the cover piece in the car and drilled 1/8" holes through the cover and just let the bit hit the floor to mark it where to drill. i then used a stepped drill bit to drill the holes for the rivet nuts. Riveted those in and the drill the holes in the cover bigger to allow the 1/4-20 bolts to slide through.

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Please take note that the above pics are from both of my Foci. I did this mod to both of them. I did it this way because the cover has the exact same grooves and angles as the floor in the car and makes for a nice tight, flush fit. I'm not done with it yet. i plan to sandblast my covers and paint them. I'm also going to use some rubber edge trim and urethane weather stripping to seal the cover to the floor. i will edit and update the post as i do.

Disclaimer: Do this at your own risk. This is just for reference.
 
#84 ·
In a bayliner? I would imagine 1 time would be too much. I have a 42ft Meridian, if I tried that my wife would probably shoot me before I cut the decking. Bad enough putting a 300gallon bladder on the fore deck on real long trips. I wonder if I did, would they kill my captains license?? Nope not going to try that. I would just drop the tank. But then im in the desert, a bit of dust on top would all i would have. Who knows, maybe I can find a spot that has rust. One thing about the desert. No salt on the roads, no ocean next door, no rust.
 
#7 ·
Nice job.

I like the way you used the flooring from another Focus to make a cover.

I wish I had cut my access panel, used a nibbler - too worried about the wiring underneath, a littler larger because that BLUE screw lid can be a b!tch to get back on and the cut sheet metal will slice up your hands. Probably won't have to open this up again on this car.

The other nice thing about cutting a opening for the fuel pump assembly is - it also provides access to the fuel filter hose connection in the pump assembles lid (black hose with the red male connector). In the case where that hose gets damaged when changing a fuel filter and needs replacement.
 
#9 ·
What a time and life saver! Thanks

cwczx3,
Your my hero!!! I followed your photos and did this on my sons 01' Sedan, and it worked perfectly it took about 1hour to open the floor, pull the sender and replace the pump. I hinged the metal piece that I removed and sealed it with Gorilla Tape. I also used a Dremel and the thick cut of wheels, spot on it took me about 1.5 wheels to make the cut. My Evap line was were it was supposed to be, so no damage at all!!!!
 
#10 ·
Thanks for the write-up and especially the photos. I followed your instructions, and started out with the Dremel. The Dremel took about 20 minutes to cut one side of the square. Next I switched to a grinder with a cutting wheel. Much quicker - about thirty seconds per side. I was VERY careful not to cut too deep. I had a fire extinguisher handy because sparks were flying everywhere. Great deal of good the extinguisher would have done had anything gone wrong - probably I would not have had time to use it. I'm not a safety expert, so I don't know how safe this whole thing was. Sparks flying next to a fuel tank.

I knocked the lock-ring loose with a flat-head screw-driver and a rubber mallet. I don't think it matters much what you hit it with.

The pump assembly in my 2000 Focus SOHC SPI is held down with four flat tabs in the base - rotating the assembly engages the tabs into the bottom of the tank. It's different from any of the pump assemblies that were available at my local parts stores or anywhere online.

To remove the pump assembly, I had to firmly grab it and rotate it counterclockwise. This disengaged the tabs from the bottom of the tank, allowing the pump assembly to be lifted right out.

The assembly itself can be disassembled to access the pump. The assembly is held together by four push-in tabs near the top. Popping them open gives access to the pump inside the assembly.

Neither of the two strainers that came with the new pump would fit inside the assembly. But I was able to pop the old strainer off the old pump with a small flat-head screw-driver. Then I pressed the old strainer onto the new pump.

To put the plate that I cut back in place, I bolted some plumbing strap material across the plate and onto either side with 12x1/2 sheet-metal bolts. I drilled pilot holes with a 1/8 titanium bit.

PS. Another interesting note. Before disconnecting the fuel line from the top of the pump assembly, I disconnected the pump's electrical harness on top then started the engine to de-pressurize the fuel lines. I thought the engine would die after a few seconds. Five minutes later, with no power to the pump, the engine was still running! Go figure.
 
#11 ·
^^ Yeah, that leads to some issues for some reason- just like removing the fuse to de-pressurize the lines. The best way is to unplug the fuel cutoff switch. I don't know why it's different, but my car would run- lean, rough, and horrible- when I simply removed the fuse. Apparently the fuel cutoff does more than simply cut power to the pump.
 
#13 ·
Thanks for the comments guys!

I'm new to the Focus, so can you tell me exactly where the fuel cut-off switch is located and how it is operated? I've heard that this is a feature on these cars, but I just don't know anything else about it.

There is a good inch or maybe two of space between the floor and the top of the tank. The things is, as pointed out in the original post, there are all kinds of lines running underneath. If you are not extremely careful, something could get nicked!

With the plate bolted back in place, and gorilla tape (thanks previous poster) over the cuts, and with the interior carpeting and the seat back in place over the plate, you really cannot hear much additional road noise.
 
#14 ·
Take note: in picture number 5 there is a small wire conduit with two wires running straight back from the pump to the back of the car (in the picture, the direction is vertical). Probably these wires go to an evap control valve/solenoid (just my guess). There is very little clearance between the wires and the sheet metal above. If your blade penetrates by more than 1/4 inch, chances are you will cut the wires and have to splice them back together (speaking from experience). Not a big deal, but if you can avoid cutting deeply in that spot you are better off. On the first car that I did, they were spared, and on the second, they were cut.
 
#15 ·
exc post and pictures , so yesterday i replaced the fuel pump on my 2005 zx5 with 60,000 miles on it .

i cut the hole as the layout showed , used a dremal with reinforsed fiberglass cutter , cut 3 sides and folded it back , there was nothing there but the top of the gas tank .

i dropped the gas tank a couple inches and looked thru the hole i had cut , i could see the pump cover / hole . if looking at the hole i cut from the passenger side back door the pump location ( center of pump cover ) was about 6 inches toward drivers side back door and about 6 inches back toward the trunk , another way to think about its position , in the orginal post pictures if the center of the pump picture is at 6 o'clock ( looking at it from rear passenger side door ) the location of the 2005 zx5 2 liter pump is at about 10:30 o'clock .

one thing helped by cutting the hole as the orginal post said was it helped moving the wires rubber gromlet to move wires and gain room to remove pump . also easy to change the fuel filter .

this may help someone , as i think it would have been a tough job if only one hole above the pump was cut . i will add i cut the 4 wires going to the pump then connected them back when done , be carfull as the wires are-- black--black white -- red --brown , note the brown to some people may look dark and look a little black .

my advice is because of the pump location i don't think lowering the tank to replace the pump on the 2005 zx5 will work , you may have to complety remove the tank . cutting a hole is the way to go , i think you should make the hole much bigger to make it easy , 12in x 12 inches at least .
 
#16 ·
Hi,

New to forum.

Decided to do this to my focus as the fuel pump was becoming intermitant. Have bought new pump and seal. My only concern is the removal of the fuel pipes ( I have an inbound and outbound not shown in pic )

How do these unclip from the red/white section at the top of the unit? I heard something about 'one time connectors?' or do you just push all the red tabs in and withdrawal the pipe?

Any help would be great at this point.

Cheers.
 
#17 ·
the gas line pipes are healt on with plastic clips , just get them out the best way you can , when you get the new fuel pump it should come with plastic clips , there is 2 different sizes , make sure you use the correct size , when you put the fuel lines on just pust in the clips , they work fine .

which focus model , mine was a 2005 zx5 .
 
#18 ·
Cheers for reply.

Probably pic 6 is the best to discuss. The fuel pipe connects to a white part then goes into a red part. The new pump I bought has the red bit which look like you could squeeze together and remove the red part. Hope that makes sense.

So is whats on the end of the fuel pipe 'pushinable' to the red part?

Hope that makes even more sense ( probably not )
 
#19 ·
google- ford fuel line clips -, look at the pics , they will all be the same width but have different thickness , look at pic 10 , the clip has been removed , it will go in the empty white part windows , it just slides in . measure the thickness of the one you remove from yours and when you put the fuel line in just slide the clip in .

also take pictures of thinks as you take it apart , also the fitings on the fuel pump as one of the is the fuel out , the other is a breather , they have to be put on correct or it won't work . the lines on the fuel pump use the same type clips to hold the lines on .

believe me pic's will help get everthing back together correct .
 
#20 ·
Cheers.

Would you mind if I put up some pics off the new pump and whats there and my old pump?

Is there anyway to load pics on here from your own pc?

PIC 10 looks like the red part is still in the white part unless Im being dim here. Im not sure that uk and us focus's may have different fittings as its suggested that you push the red clip towards the pump and then pull the line out.

Wish this wasnt so complicated.

Thanks for the assistance.
 
#21 ·
if you google the ford clips you will see what they look like , the line in pic 10 has the clip removed and the line is ready to be pulled from the white part . the clips will push into the window in the white part .

the clips will be about .040 ( 1mm) wide , but you may get different widths with your fuel pump so you must check the width of the ones you remove .

i don't know how to download pics to the forum .

i just use picasa and download to my pc .
 
#22 ·
Hi.

Would you mind having a look at this ebay pic. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-focus-mk1-fuel-pump-4-pin-for-petrol-model-98-05-/300953169035?hash=item461234ec8b
Are you telling me you would press down the red tabs on the old one and withdraw the whole piece ( so the white thing has no red bits left inside ) then slot it again into the new pump ( again use same ebay pic ) and wait for it to click in? That would make some sense.

Tjhe only strange thing with that is why would the brand new replacement come with new red peices? see later ebay pic http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-FOCUS-MK1-MK2-PETROL-INTANK-FUEL-PUMP-ASSEMBLY-98AP9H307AK-0986580402-/251244071484?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a7f504a3c

Again thank you.
 
#25 ·
I became involved in trying to resurrect a dead Focus quite some time ago - it had been driven to its location 2 years previously and left in a garage and simply refused to start. I haven't worked on a petrol engined vehicle since they had carburettors so I was completely at a loss but it had to be moved so it was transported to its new location.

I was recently asked to try and get it running so looked up all the forums to look for clues to try and diagnose it. I found that there were plenty of big fat sparks so I knew it wasn't ignition, so I tried listening for the fuel pump priming - nothing heard! I checked the #12 fuse (which was intact) and the cutoff switch by the offside door which was also OK. I lifted the back seat and unplugged the fuel pump electrical connection, my multimeter showed that there was power up to the pump so I guessed the pump itself was shot.

A secondhand pump was obtained, the electrical connection was made and the pump came to life in my hand when the ignition was switched on. So far so good.

Access to the car is difficult; there is very little space around the sides and rear; it's wet and cold and I couldn't get in to jack the back end up to drop the tank so I cut an access hole in the back seat area. Mostly because there is no power there, I used a Goscut hand nibbler and finally got access to the top of the tank. It's the same as the one in Purplefocus's video, with feed and return lines secured by the red and white clips. I did what I had to to get them out but fubar-ed them in the process.

Fitting the replacement pump was a straightforward job but I discovered that it came without the clips, so I'm unable to finish the job - about 2 minutes work.

When I removed the lines from the old pump there were *some* O-rings around the end of the probe which goes in the pump body - they fell off and I collected them as best I could but I'm not sure how many were on each connector. I have them in brown, yellow and white but I think there may have been some in the new pump so I have quite a lot . . . [???:)]

Can anybody please tell me if the clips for the fuel lines are even available to buy, or do they *always* come with a new pump? And how many O-rings of which colour should there be? Any particular order?