Info about motor mounts - Page 2 - Focus Fanatics
Ford Focus Forum
HomeContact UsAbout UsGalleryDiscussion ForumsMarketplace


Go Back   Focus Fanatics > Ford Focus Tech Discussions > General Technical Chat

General Technical Chat This section is for technical discussions relating to general maintenance, electrical issues, engine trouble, and recalls.

Search This Forum | Image Search | Advanced Search    
Ford Focus Tire & Wheels FocusFanatics Merchandise

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 09-26-2012, 09:00 PM   #11
amc49
Focus Fanatic
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Fan#: 96610
Location: Fort Worth, TX
What I Drive: 00 wagon, 02 sedan both zetec atx

Posts: 4,247
FF Reputation: 23 amc49 Great Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)
When the dogbone is removed the motor/trans rotates because gravity pulls it down dead straight. In normally bolted up configuration it is rotated backwards slightly out of the center of gravity. You MUST push the motor around to get the parts lined up, it is impossible to not do so.

The aftermarket pass side mounts blow out because they have an incompetently configured pressfit in the top retaining plate. If the pressfit was tight to spec then the tops would not blow out. The pressfit is what seals the fluid chamber too, leaking brand new parts in box show how well they do it. The aftermarket parts also go bad early because the top metering plate on Ford parts is bolted solidly in place, the cheaper part uses a rivet edge rolled over to do the same thing. That edge is not substantial and it loosens up as the repeated up/down hammering occurs on the metering plate from normal hydro mount operation. Once the rivet rolled edge loosens up the hydro portion of the mount is essentially not working anymore so non-deadened vibrations then go to work on the top plate pressfit. They do that by beating the metering plate against the plastic feed plate above, that transfers the load to the top cover plate to knock it out. Take apart a few of them and look how they are made. The aftermarket top cover comes out easily, you have to really work on a Ford one to get it out.

Ford branded mounts allow for as much as 1 inch off error in all positions. The holes all have super big slop in them. You muscle the dogbone in and out sometimes because differences in thickness of the replacement mounts mean that an earlier thinner one pinches in the metal opening of the crossmember, you have to muscle that opening back wider to get a thicker mount in. That has nothing whatsoever to do with the alignment of major parts.

I've gone to looking for bad pass mounts that have that stud for plate in them and still have good bottom rubber. I modded one using another 1 inch thick 4 inch diameter rubber bushing on top, the idea seems to work really well. No idle in gear vibration at all. Waiting till winter to see how it works in stone cold conditions when it is worse. So far I love it.

My view is when top hydro portion goes, then damping can only occur on the bottom 180 degrees of crank rotation, the remaining rubber in bottom of mount does that. There is no rubber to stop vibration in an upwards direction, or the top 180 degrees. Vibration is worse there because of secondary imbalance forces. Think of the big aluminum ring of the mount that motor is bolted to, that ring moves up and down with the vibration moment. The top hydro part of mount deadened the upward moment by reflecting part of it back downwards also at different frequency to interfere and deaden more I think. There is a molded steel bowl plate in there that is hanging in space once the hydro portion is gone, putting rubber against it and piloting in the center using the factory stud should allow for damping upwards too. It seems to work pretty good, did it for like $15 in parts, finding a suitable rubber grommet that big was the big issue.

So yes, I seem to have an answer to no longer available parts. Gonna cobble up another for my other Focus. I'd certainly like to see a DEA mount, never heard of them.
amc49 is offline  
    Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 09-26-2012, 09:31 PM   #12
total_telecom
Focus Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Fan#: 83049
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
What I Drive: 2004 se wagon 2.0L

Posts: 66
FF Reputation: 1 total_telecom Good Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)
AMC, Excellent post! Very helpful. I'm going to keep all of this in mind and reference this later when problems do occur.
total_telecom is offline  
    Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2012, 03:19 PM   #13
Dizle
Focus Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Fan#: 103998
Location: Huntington Beach, CA
What I Drive: 2006 Black ZX3

Posts: 53
FF Reputation: 1 Dizle Good Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)
UPDATE

Went from annoying vibrations at idle and throughout the rpm range while driving to buttery smooth like a new car with no vibrations!

I inspected the passenger motor mount and it looked to be in fairly good condition. Went ahead and replaced it anyways and the vibrations are COMPLETELY GONE! Feels like a brand new car at idle and while driving, it seems like she's not even running it's so smooth.

Anyone with vibration issues at idle I would say change the passenger mount, took like 20 mins and fixed all my vibrations issues. After much research on here I went with DEA brand motor mount, didn't want to spend 2x that for a Ford part. Hoping the $60 mount lasts a few years, if not at least I know it'll be worth it to buy a Ford part and it WILL solve my annoying vibration issues if the come back in the future!
Dizle is offline  
    Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2012, 04:16 PM   #14
total_telecom
Focus Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Fan#: 83049
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
What I Drive: 2004 se wagon 2.0L

Posts: 66
FF Reputation: 1 total_telecom Good Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)
If do the mount under the air box as well and the dog bone mount under the car. Your call but I wanted to have fresh mounts everywhere so I didn't prematurely wear out the passenger mount

Sent from my SCH-I535 using FF Mobile
total_telecom is offline  
    Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2012, 08:53 PM   #15
Dizle
Focus Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Fan#: 103998
Location: Huntington Beach, CA
What I Drive: 2006 Black ZX3

Posts: 53
FF Reputation: 1 Dizle Good Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)
Ya I'll inspect/ replace those too, just very happy that the vibrations are gone and the car feels like new!
Dizle is offline  
    Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2012, 09:29 PM   #16
thehypeisreal
Focus Rookie
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Fan#: 102002
Location: Ellenwood, GA
What I Drive: 2005 ZX5

Posts: 17
FF Reputation: 1 thehypeisreal Good Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)
Did this job over the weekend on my 05. Dogbone and passenger were trash, but when I pulled off the old driver side mount I compared it to the brand new mount from ford and just couldn't see enough wear or damage to warrant changing it out so I'm getting a refund for that one. New passenger and dog bone made mine feel brand new also.
thehypeisreal is offline  
    Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2012, 07:42 AM   #17
amc49
Focus Fanatic
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Fan#: 96610
Location: Fort Worth, TX
What I Drive: 00 wagon, 02 sedan both zetec atx

Posts: 4,247
FF Reputation: 23 amc49 Great Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)
The driver side is easy enough to diagnose, it will have the metal part that nut goes on shifted to one side from the rubber underneath and will look sheared at that point from what rubber is underneath it. Fine rubber crumblies and dust are an indicator of shearing and rubber grinding to dust too.

You don't necessarily have to change all of them at once, 90% of the vibration comes from the passenger side one. The dogbone is bad when you feel any cluck or knock when putting in gear or rolling off and on power while driving. The bump you feel is slack allowing motor/trans to slap back and forth inside that slack.
amc49 is offline  
    Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2013, 04:53 PM   #18
choate
Focus Enthusiast
 
choate's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Fan#: 103130
Location: Saint Charles, MO
What I Drive: 2006 maroon zx4

Posts: 107
FF Reputation: 3 choate Good Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)
Quote:
Originally Posted by total_telecom View Post
By all means change the plugs and wires, I have seen Coil issues with some as well. For plugs i really like bosch+2 and the Motorcraft wires are dirt cheap at rockauto. Does your valve cover leak oil? theres a lage vacuum line on the rear of the motor that goes to the intake manifold they always go bad and compress, then you get too much positive pressure in the crankcase and get a valve cover gasket leak.

It can also be motor mounts, I did all 3 of mine!
Hey, I think this may be why my valve cover gasket leaks. Mine just barely leaks and I bought a new gasket but haven't installed it yet but if that line is bad/compressed it's just going to put too much pressure on the new gasket too. I'm gonna look when I get out to my car at 7pm.

Do you just buy a new vacuum line, replace and that solves the problem?
__________________
06 maroon ZX4 2.0 Duratec - MTX75
35% tinted windows - plasti-dip wheels & grill
lunchbox delete - stealth CAI w/ AEM filter
Team Duratec #29
choate is offline  
    Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2013, 05:35 PM   #19
total_telecom
Focus Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Fan#: 83049
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
What I Drive: 2004 se wagon 2.0L

Posts: 66
FF Reputation: 1 total_telecom Good Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)
Absolutely! Esp if the car runs rough. Rough idle is a dead giveaway. And I agree on the Bosch Platinum 2 and Motorcraft wires, IT is a smooth combo in most fords. This is common with the Zetec 2 Liter. poor crankcase ventilation from this part collapsing causes rough idle and valve cover oil leaks. It also contributes to your oil getting dirty pretty fast. My explorer for example jsut starts getting dirty at around 4500 miles. The Zetec can run dirty if crankcase ventilation inst a part of your maintenance. You have a Zetec Motor? the ford part number you want XS4Z-6N664-BA this runs from the intake manifold back by the firewall, around to the side of the motor under the thermostat housing. The end under the thermostat housing takes some serious coaxing, this hose diameter is very small in comparison to the tube it covers. so work it on there, with some careful lube, you should get it on.

i cant recall if i did
F8CZ-6N664-AA. good idea, the pcv is a pain, its under the exhaust manifold on the drivers side.

If neither of these take care of your rough idling Zetec, Replace all of the motor mounts. There are 3 and threads on here detailing the job
total_telecom is offline  
    Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2013, 05:40 PM   #20
choate
Focus Enthusiast
 
choate's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Fan#: 103130
Location: Saint Charles, MO
What I Drive: 2006 maroon zx4

Posts: 107
FF Reputation: 3 choate Good Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)
Quote:
Originally Posted by total_telecom View Post
Absolutely! Esp if the car runs rough. Rough idle is a dead giveaway. And I agree on the Bosch Platinum 2 and Motorcraft wires, IT is a smooth combo in most fords. This is common with the Zetec 2 Liter. poor crankcase ventilation from this part collapsing causes rough idle and valve cover oil leaks. It also contributes to your oil getting dirty pretty fast. My explorer for example jsut starts getting dirty at around 4500 miles. The Zetec can run dirty if crankcase ventilation inst a part of your maintenance. You have a Zetec Motor? the ford part number you want XS4Z-6N664-BA this runs from the intake manifold back by the firewall, around to the side of the motor under the thermostat housing. The end under the thermostat housing takes some serious coaxing, this hose diameter is very small in comparison to the tube it covers. so work it on there, with some careful lube, you should get it on.

i cant recall if i did
F8CZ-6N664-AA. good idea, the pcv is a pain, its under the exhaust manifold on the drivers side.

If neither of these take care of your rough idling Zetec, Replace all of the motor mounts. There are 3 and threads on here detailing the job
I have a duratec. Idle is good. Thanks. I'll look and report back later tonight if the hose looks limp. It didn't leak until I changed the oil btw. Don't know if that matters but I used mobil 1 5w20 instead of standard oil. It just leaks enough to coat the engine and sometimes you can smell in the vents but not always. Doesn't drip or anything..

Def gonna do the passenger motor mount. Hopefully this weekend
__________________
06 maroon ZX4 2.0 Duratec - MTX75
35% tinted windows - plasti-dip wheels & grill
lunchbox delete - stealth CAI w/ AEM filter
Team Duratec #29
choate is offline  
    Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks & Social Networks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:59 PM.


Copyright 2002-2014 FocusFanatics.com. All Rights Reserved : Terms of Use : Privacy Policy : Advertise Information : Site Map

Focus Fanatics Ford Focus Forum offers many fun ways for you to engage with other Ford Focus Owners from across the world. Whether it be about the aftermarket performance modifications, technical how-to's, European tuned suspension or awesome fuel economy similar to the Acura TLX or Fiesta ST. You can find all Ford Focus and Focus ST related information here. Join our Ford Focus discussion forums and chat with local Focus enthusiasts in your area.