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Old 06-26-2013, 08:47 PM   #421
Woggy64
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Dunno whether it's me or the full synthetic I switched to, but I've gained about 3 to 4 MPG on my city driving. Usually only got 23 in city driving, now getting 26.

Anyone see any changes switching to full synthetic?
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Old 06-26-2013, 11:04 PM   #422
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Originally Posted by Woggy64 View Post
Dunno whether it's me or the full synthetic I switched to, but I've gained about 3 to 4 MPG on my city driving. Usually only got 23 in city driving, now getting 26.

Anyone see any changes switching to full synthetic?
I went from 18-19 to 23-24. But not only did I switch to Full Synthetic, but switched to using 93 vs 87 oct.


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Old 06-27-2013, 07:09 AM   #423
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You will never convince the "all oils are the same" guys in this forum that a true synthetic actually does increase engine efficiency. In a 2008 Mustang GT with the 4.6L 3V engine, I used Mobil 1 5W-20 for 30,000 miles. After switching to Amsoil AZO 0W-30, the engine averaged 1 mpg more. Viscosity increased, yet efficiency increased. That's the testament of a true synthetic base stock. It's scientifically proven that PAO (group IV) and Ester (group V) base stocks have a lower frictional coefficient, when compared to petroleum (group II) and hydrocracked petroleum (group III).




Waiting for the haters and non-believers. They can come here to argue that Amsoil Signature Series is a waste, however.....it can be scientifically proven that my Focus, when driven the same as another Focus with the exact same options (using Motorcraft 5W-20), will achieve better fuel efficiency, result in lower wear metal ppm, and run cooler.
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Old 06-27-2013, 09:52 AM   #424
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woggy64 View Post
Dunno whether it's me or the full synthetic I switched to, but I've gained about 3 to 4 MPG on my city driving. Usually only got 23 in city driving, now getting 26.

Anyone see any changes switching to full synthetic?
Mobil1 AFE (0w/20, 0w/30) makes the most aggressive fuel economy improvement claim of which I am aware, which is a "potential" 2% when switching from a higher viscosity, non-synthetic oil. So while synthetics are more efficient, I doubt very much if the improvement is enough to be noticed by users - certainly nothing like the 15% you're seeing.

On the other hand, requiring an 0w/20 oil like Honda and Toyota do can help a manufacturer meeting CAFE targets, or at least allow rounding to a higher mpg number, but these are lab results, not real-world ones.
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Old 06-27-2013, 10:01 AM   #425
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UnleashedBeast View Post
You will never convince the "all oils are the same" guys in this forum that a true synthetic actually does increase engine efficiency. In a 2008 Mustang GT with the 4.6L 3V engine, I used Mobil 1 5W-20 for 30,000 miles. After switching to Amsoil AZO 0W-30, the engine averaged 1 mpg more. Viscosity increased, yet efficiency increased. That's the testament of a true synthetic base stock. It's scientifically proven that PAO (group IV) and Ester (group V) base stocks have a lower frictional coefficient, when compared to petroleum (group II) and hydrocracked petroleum (group III).




Waiting for the haters and non-believers. They can come here to argue that Amsoil Signature Series is a waste, however.....it can be scientifically proven that my Focus, when driven the same as another Focus with the exact same options (using Motorcraft 5W-20), will achieve better fuel efficiency, result in lower wear metal ppm, and run cooler.
All that may be true. But the technicians at Blackstone Labs (the guys that do used oil analyses) mostly run conventional oil because they just don't see a difference in wear metals between Group III, III and IV oils. And there are a gabillion cars out there that have reached 200-300,000 miles on conventional oil.

If you want to run really extended oil change intervals, have a high-perfomance or turbocharged car, tow a trailer, etc. syns are the only way to go. I use syns exclusively, but not because I think the outcome will be measurably better. They just make me more comfortable.
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Old 07-11-2013, 06:48 PM   #426
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Just did my 30k oil change myself, in my 65 years it was one of the easiest. And to start this topic again I pre-filled the filter, and had a quite start up. This crap about unfiltered oil, the oil is unfiltered when you pour it in the valve cover and that is 4 quarts.
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Old 07-11-2013, 06:54 PM   #427
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I know they really did a knock out job on this one and I don't get that either how can new oil in a sealed jug or bottle be dirty...
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Old 07-11-2013, 09:06 PM   #428
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Just did my 30k oil change myself, in my 65 years it was one of the easiest. And to start this topic again I pre-filled the filter, and had a quite start up. This crap about unfiltered oil, the oil is unfiltered when you pour it in the valve cover and that is 4 quarts.
Not saying I buy into the concern, but the theory is this oil passes through the filter before it hits the bearings under pressure, which is where contaminants would do the most harm.
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Old 07-19-2013, 09:38 PM   #429
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Haven't been back here in a while, just got my Blackstone oil report after wife let her daily driver'12 FoFo go 8,850 miles on the original factory oil and filter...
Blackstone said we could've gone 10,000. TBN was still 1.1
Gotta love these new motors and oil.....
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Old 07-24-2013, 03:09 AM   #430
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I have been using Fumoto engine oil drain valve on my last 3 vehicles, and they work great, not to mention a real time saver. The one I got for my 2013 titanium is F-107N. You can hook a tube onto the nipple, so it drains with no mess.
Picked mine up on amazon. Worth every penny.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003VC...I1JDI67U81W60Q

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