How-to: DIY Urethane-filled right side engine mount - Focus Fanatics
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Old 12-17-2011, 01:08 AM   #1
illinipo
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How-to: DIY Urethane-filled right side engine mount

My passenger motor mount broke. The rubber separated and all the goo is all over my engine bay. Including on my accessory pulleys :(



Tousley has them for $80. There are several cheap brands around $25 but the reviews all say they break within a few months' time. Being that my car has 213,000 miles on it and has officially achieved honest-to-goodness beater/project car status, I needed to fix this as cheaply and reliably as possible. So these options were not going to work.

User mellephants was my inspiration here. He just got done with the same job with the same financial constraint. In fact, somehow all three of our motor mounts have broken at about the same time, despite way different mileage on our cars... Thanks to the internet, we found a couple of options in this area of motormount repair. McMaster sells a few hardnesses of 2-part liquid urethane, the most typical ones being 60A and 80A. Each comes out to about 40 bucks after tax and shipping.

The vibrations in mellephants's car with the 80A is a bit much for me so I wanted to try the 60A. But then I found threads talking about 3M Window Weld, which is 55-60A and supposedly $10. Perfect! But when I went to look for it online, it was $20 or $25 at my local stores. Bummer.

Finally, I found other threads where guys used a Loctite roofing sealant, P/N 1402254. The data sheet on the Loctite website says only 27.5A hardness... but the internet people were saying it is not squishy. And it was $5. So, no brainer!



On with the how-to.

1. Support your engine then remove the bracket and mount from the car (there is another how-to about this, I'm sure) (15mm, deep 18mm sockets). Then remove the mount itself from the bracket (deep 18mm socket).

2. Gently pry off the top plastic piece and cut the rubber seal. If your mount was not broken, there will be a bunch of goo in there you need to get out.



3. Cut and remove one piece at a time the rubber baffle between the two valves. I just slit it once and pulled it out, involuntarily breaking it in pieces as I pulled it through.



Sidebar. This fluid-filled mount works exactly like a shock absorber. The motion of the fluid is controlled by a baffle between two valves. In the upper right of this pic is the orifice that controls "compression" movement of the mount. "rebound" is controlled by the baffle covering the bottom valve.



4. Clean the goo out. A healthy serving of flowing brakleen will help.



5. If your mount was already broken, tape up the edge so the urethane doesnt simply leak out. Take note here of the locating pin on the base of the stud. It is very important to align this properly so it fits back in the bracket. It should be on the opposite side as the motor.



6. Grab plenty of towels you don't care about and wear gloves you are willing to throw away. Cover your workspace with cardboard or something. Warm up the mount and sealant to at least room temperature but no higher than about 90F. I used a male 3" PVC adapter to hold the mount. It fits perfect and I had it lying around from a bushing install on another car, but they are only a couple dollars if you want to buy one.

Steps 7-9 should all be done within 15 minutes to avoid setting the urethane in the wrong position.

7. Cut just the very tip off the tube, and break the inner seal of the tube with a long screwdriver or something. Then, try to jam the tip of the tube down into the side of the mount. Here we are trying to get the urethane to go under a metal ball inside the mount. Sorry, I don't have pics of that but you will see it. Squeeze a bunch in on both of the larger opening sides of the ball. then work in a circle. Eventually it will start to come out the other holes, and you can jam it back in. Just get as much in there as you can, I used about half a tube.





8. If I've learned anything from placing concrete, it's that vibration is your friend if you want to reduce voids. Go around in a circle and tap the mount with a hammer.



9. Load the top of the mount so the bushing part of the mount is compressed. This will give you the best range of motion after everything cures. I used 50lbs. Speaking of curing, the recommendations range anywhere from 1 day to 7 days. Most people wait 2 days. I think I will go 3 days.



So that's where I'm at right now. I'll report back once I get it installed and running.


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Old 12-17-2011, 01:25 AM   #2
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I may have to try this. I've always wanted poly mounts but didn't want to spend the money.


*Edit*

My company makes a 2 part urethane caulk. I got some sample tubes laying around so I may test it out and see how it goes.
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Old 12-17-2011, 01:47 AM   #3
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A+ would read again ;)

So did the sealant flow down into the mount without additional heating, or did you have to squeeze it down there? One thing I definitely like better about the two part urethane casting compound is that you can *pour* it.
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Old 12-17-2011, 01:59 AM   #4
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Very nice. +1
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Old 12-17-2011, 02:02 AM   #5
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I "assume" it flowed down there. It took a really long time before I started to see the urethane come up the sides of the ball.

The benefit of this method over the liquid stuff is it is $35 cheaper. And locally available (Home Depot).
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Old 12-17-2011, 02:16 AM   #6
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Agreed on that.

As I said before, worst case scenario, this stuff falls apart, and you have to blowtorch it out and do what I did. Oh I guess a picture of that monstrosity would fit in here.

Passenger mount, all rubber burnt off, and wirewheeled clean. (Ignore the junkyard wheels)


IMG_20111121_100437 by mellephants, on Flickr

After using duct tape and 80A urethane casting compound to create a new, completely solid polyurethane mount:


20111123_30D_3939 by mellephants, on Flickr


I have since whittled it down to a normal looking shape using a common knife, and installed it. I've also filled the driver's side mount, so that the two would be equally stiff. My whole car vibrates with every movement of the engine, but nothing ever hops skips or jumps when driving the car hard, throttle input is incredibly direct, and you can barely notice the vibrations at highway speed.

Drove it for 6 hours straight (o'hare and back) on Wednesday with zero complaints.
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Old 12-17-2011, 10:32 AM   #7
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Got any pictures of the drivers side mount? I would really like to see how you filled it in.
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Old 12-17-2011, 11:09 AM   #8
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Not sure on the roof sealant. but I have made them in the past for escorts & the rear lower for our cars. I us 3m windsheild urethane. it has been really good & from all the DIY i found on google it seems to be great to work with & strength.

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Old 12-17-2011, 11:11 AM   #9
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on my old computer i had a chart. i will look to find again. it showed from rubber to poly & the strength of the products. so a person can ake there own as hard as they like or even a bit soft but still better than rubber . this way not rough on a DD car

The mount you are doing I have been planning on. so interested to see how this works out. i never thought of putting weights on it to compress it.
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Old 12-17-2011, 11:19 AM   #10
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here is a limk i jst found

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sp?prod=DIYMMI
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