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Old 09-11-2012, 11:03 PM   #31
1turbofocus
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LOL , Ok if it works for you please keep using it the internet is just as full of issues with WM as there is the ones using it "with no problem" , Problem is people like you (nothing personal) when they do have issues after beating on there chest about how good it is will never post about a failure just like E85

If you run E85 and WM you should be able to do what 10,000 HP ?

Tom
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Old 09-11-2012, 11:19 PM   #32
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I guess we'll have to see what the guy says who designed that handheld you sell. Can't really disput that can we?

And e85. Its not controlled enough. I'll never use it unless its regulated like 110 octane race gas.

And I'm pretty sure the real problem is people like you, who sit on their high and mighty horse thinking they know everything about tuning. You don't. There's a reason you're not on focaljet and nobody likes you over there. Because the people there actually know what they're talking about. I'm not saying its never going to fail. There is a possibility. But that possibility is about the size of a brand new garret/bw/precision etc turbo failing on the first drive. Could it happen if everything is hooked up right? Slight chance. Could it happen if you do something wrong? Hell yeah.
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Old 09-11-2012, 11:35 PM   #33
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If you are that paranoid, then check/make sure the jet is clean every 500-1000miles.
Wire coming loose is a installment error, easily avoidable.
Running out of meth is like running out of gas, plan stupid on the person part. It's not like it uses a whole gallon in two pulls.
I can see the switch not working threw mechanical failure.
Line rubbing a whole is a installment error, easily avoidable. Wrap the lines if it is near something that will rub.
Pump failing can be a mechanical failure.

So two things that you listed can be a part failure, which happens, the others are easily avoidable.

Then you shouldn't even run it bc all you are doing is running the car rich but hey at least the IAT will be a little lower. But what do I know.
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Old 09-12-2012, 08:57 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gimmemoreboost View Post
I guess we'll have to see what the guy says who designed that handheld you sell. Can't really disput that can we?

And e85. Its not controlled enough. I'll never use it unless its regulated like 110 octane race gas.

And I'm pretty sure the real problem is people like you, who sit on their high and mighty horse thinking they know everything about tuning. You don't. There's a reason you're not on focaljet and nobody likes you over there. Because the people there actually know what they're talking about. I'm not saying its never going to fail. There is a possibility. But that possibility is about the size of a brand new garret/bw/precision etc turbo failing on the first drive. Could it happen if everything is hooked up right? Slight chance. Could it happen if you do something wrong? Hell yeah.
What are you 10 , grow up , know the facts before you start making your self look foolish , this was uncalled for

Tom
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Old 09-12-2012, 09:08 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbosvtfocus04 View Post
If you are that paranoid, then check/make sure the jet is clean every 500-1000miles.
Wire coming loose is a installment error, easily avoidable.
Running out of meth is like running out of gas, plan stupid on the person part. It's not like it uses a whole gallon in two pulls.
I can see the switch not working threw mechanical failure.
Line rubbing a whole is a installment error, easily avoidable. Wrap the lines if it is near something that will rub.
Pump failing can be a mechanical failure.

So two things that you listed can be a part failure, which happens, the others are easily avoidable.

Then you shouldn't even run it bc all you are doing is running the car rich but hey at least the IAT will be a little lower. But what do I know.
You cannot check the jet every time you use it , it can and does stop up just after it worked perfectly , say at 350 to 800 miles , yes a lot of issues are installment errors doesnt change the fact that they still cost the guys an engine + the mechanical issues we agree on

You can run WM , cool the charge and NOT run RICH and it works very well , do it this way and you get the benefit from the cooling which is what your after (WM is NOT ment as a power adder) with WM but none of the ill effect of tuning for WM

Tom
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Old 09-12-2012, 07:50 PM   #36
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Number one. I'm 20. Lol

Number two, Chris said you should tune for it, but not run the bleeding edge of the motor in case of failure.

Number three, the only reason I'm posting in this thread is because I knew the facts before posting.

Whether or not you believe what I said chris said, you should always tune for wmi. If you're running w/m and your afr's are not getting too rich, then you already tuned leaner and then added the wmi.
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Old 09-12-2012, 09:23 PM   #37
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Troll^^^^
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Old 09-12-2012, 11:16 PM   #38
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Installment errors happens because some dip shit can't follow directions correctly. It's not hard to install. I have a basic of basic w/m kit, nothing special to it. If I would have had a clog nozzle it would have happen already.
And for it not adding power, putting a big turbo on my srt, just adding w/m and still running stock injectors making 420whp, stock motor ran it for 6 months never had an issue. Before that being on stock turbo for a year never had issues, never cleaned the nozzle nor the filter.

Some people just can't tune w/m to the full potentional. But don't worry at least the IAT will be cooler and add 10hp. That's worth the $400 spent.
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Old 09-13-2012, 06:02 AM   #39
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Its not about following install instructions , WM does NOT att power , tuning for gobs of WM running to an engine you can add more timing and slightly lean out the engine if enough Alcohol is added (above 40-50%) and gain some HP / TQ

Then if the WM for what ever reason stops going into the engine you need to buy new pistons , its just that simple

Run 40 - 50% WM this cools the charge , AF changes very little and you get the safety of the engine increased by a good bit as well as a slight increase in HP/TQ from the cooler air charge WITH OUT TUNING FOR IT

You should NEVER spray the WM across the IAT sensor telling the engine that the air intake charge is running that cool when it isnt , you do this on a Focus (unless IAT is moved ) and you will effect the MAF and it will go super rich and start running bad

In my opinion WM should be installed after the SC or Turbo and after the IAT sensor , On the Focus you have to install WM after the TB because the TPS isnt a sealed unit and it kills the TPS sensor

It isnt I cant tune it , Its I wont tune MW , I have used it enough to know not to

Tom
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Old 09-13-2012, 08:16 AM   #40
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False.
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