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SPI Performance (2000-2004) The place to chat about any 2.0L Split Port Injection engine performance, tuning and exhaust related upgrades.

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Old 12-12-2011, 02:41 PM   #51
drunkyoda
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on xmas you will be able to upload lol

what a great present!
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Old 12-12-2011, 04:03 PM   #52
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Arrow Pre-Wow

First, the engine pull:

This is dangerous stuff, so only a crazy person would attempt to do it.

And I've done it working completely alone.

But if you try too, "read and follow" all safety instructions, etc. "Use at your own risk."

Definitely need the equivalent of a two car garage, with a hard, flat floor. I haven't had to jack up the car, but have slid around underneath it some, especially getting those exhaust and lower intake manifold bolts.

You need a good engine hoist ("cherry picker") and an engine stand. And lots of good metric and general tools, including a Torx(R) socket set. And air tools, especially a heavy duty air gun -- not one of the cheapos. My 700 ft-lbf one barely got the exhaust bolts off at 100 psi. And a couple of oil pans to catch all the antifreeze and oil.

OK -- after all the external parts are off including the head, as described before, it was time to yank the engine. I did _not_ have to remove the:

Dipstick tube
Fuel line and rail
Power steering reservoir
Radiator or fans
Hood
Transaxle (5 speed manual)

or even fully disconnect the starter. They are all laid to the side as shown in the excellent pics (apparently to be posted after the 25th, due to site restrictions on new members). Finally drained the engine oil and removed the filter.

My load-leveler was too big for this tiny block, so I just used a chain and bolts.

Doh! There's no bolt holes on either side toward the rear of the block to which to attach the lift. I see special Ford brackets, but they probably assume pulling the transaxle too. So against my better judgment, I had to use two opposing head bolts. Chose the bolt holes with the most meat, and used spacers to reduce the leverage put on the bolts by the taught chain. Worked well. Already have new head bolts in hand for the rebuild.

Used a bottle jack and a block of wood to hold up the bellhousing, and adjusted it and the cherry picker until they seemed to have proportional loads. Then disconnected the five upper and side block-to-bellhousing bolts. The one on the bottom front started, but didn't want to come out due to corrosion. WD-40'd in the hole and put it all the way back in. More WD-40, out, more WD-40, in, etc., while I worked on the other bolts, then the problem one came out.

Now was time to separate the block and transmission. Popped apart easily, but then quickly hit the right side frame rail with the front end of the engine. Expect, too, to lose some paint here. Started gently turning the block toward the back of the car, and raising/lowering the picker, while also moving the block forward. No problem getting off the input shaft (I think will go back on fine; not worried about losing the clutch alignment), but getting the pressure plate to clear the belhousing's front, and the oil pump to clear the framerail was the challenge.

Kept going back and forth, up and down, gently, until the engine was turned about 40 degrees to the rear. Kept a careful watch of the fuel line and cooling fan as they were the restrictions. The AC/alternator/PS bracket only slightly got in the way; I might disconnect the compressor from it and remove the bracket before I reinstall.

The dust plate, between the block and bellhousing, bent a little bit where the starter goes through it, but it easily bent back without deformation.

Once the clutch cleared the bellhousing, it was up, up, and away! As the pic shows ... oh well, soon will show ... no problem clearing the hood or grille.

Despite looking tiny, the block is heavy, so lower it carefully. Once barely resting on the oil pan to stabilize, I test fit the engine stand's mount (fortunately already had the needed metric bolts from a prior engine) and found I needed to remove the clutch and flywheel. The flywheel bolts needed the impact wrench because the crank turns too easily at this point. I should have removed the dust plate too at this point, but was too eager to see inside the engine.

With the block now on the engine stand ...
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Old 12-12-2011, 04:14 PM   #53
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congrats man! i remember dropping out my old SPI through the bottom and sliding the zetec back in place!

:) gotta love the zetec.
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Old 12-12-2011, 04:29 PM   #54
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Exclamation Now for the wow ...

Forgot to mention that the clutch, flywheel, and pressure plate all show normal wear, and that it's time to replace. The throwout bearing seems to be wiggling badly, so past-due for it. New LuK kit on order -- same brand as was in there, but also was stamped "Ford". Will do a light refinishing of the uncracked flywheel.

Well, with the block on the stand, it was time to rotate it to take the oil pan off. Didn't turn it very far until I heard clunks from inside. Multiple big clunks.

Now just hoping not to find chunks of the block/cylinders ...

Pan came off easily, and the first chunks of metal were visible. The windage tray was bent a bit too under #3. Taking it off revealed more chunks, and the sight of a destroyed piston.

Rotating the block back over yielded a whole bunch of chunks. Cleaned the cylinder ridges (not bad at all, just needed some solvent).

Back over, and removed #3. The piston/rod _dropped_ out of the cylinder -- I've never had that happen. And here's the rest of the wow, in pic form:

Oh well, you get to wait another week or so!

The other three pistons/rods came out normally, as did the crank. All the bearings, including #3's rod's, looked new. Journals too. But that #3 piston was destroyed all the way up to the oil control rings. Rod not obviously bent, but a remanufactured one and a new piston are on order.

Amazing that the cylinder is OK (triple-checked for obvious cracks, scratches, being out of round, etc.). Crankshaft looks fine too, but decided to get a remanufactured one just in case.

All the cylinders still show their final factory honings' crosshatching, and are barely glazed. So I decided to do the light honing/glaze breaking myself, and have the tool on order. Both good and bad how-to videos are on Youtube.com.

The oil dipstick tube is still in the block (not laid to the side ... nor is the hood), but I did a few test taps on its bottom and the tube will come out. Not sure if I will need to remove it fully -- I'll likely wash and paint the block while it is still on the engine stand.
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Old 12-12-2011, 04:33 PM   #55
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hahahahha thats hilarious. when i looked at mine it looked like a dog had been knawing on it for a while.

also my dipstick tube pulled right out...
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Old 12-12-2011, 08:28 PM   #56
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I talked to Melling when I replaced my lifters.They said that as long as there was a groove where the oil hole was, it didn't matter which direction the lifters were in.
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Old 12-12-2011, 09:43 PM   #57
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Lifters

If used and working correctly, then they definitely should go back in the same way they came out so that the lifters' wear matches the cam's.

Yes, mine had the groove all the way around, but I didn't look closer for differences from side to side. I just put them back the way they were in the old head, following the factory service manual directions too.
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Old 12-14-2011, 03:00 PM   #58
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Not twidling my thumbs yet

The parts are rolling in, including the remanufactured crankshaft (looks good), but the cylinder hone tool is the critical item now.

So just installed the new hood release cable and handle. Royal pain, but is done. Now starting work on the shifter cables; console is being resistant -- might have to loosen the parking brake cable to get its handle to point up more.
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Old 12-14-2011, 07:33 PM   #59
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Really yanking the brake handle up worked. Old gearshift cables out, and new ones in. Still need to redo their adjustment (did via FSM way; reverse is not smooth), and put back on the console. Was fairly easy to feed through the cables with the engine out, but did need to bend down that tunnel heat shield. It bent back nicely though.
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Old 12-15-2011, 01:23 PM   #60
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Exclamation Rtfm!

Well, duh ... having not yet driven the FF due to the blown engine, I didn't know the shifter knob needs to be turned slightly to go into reverse according to the Owner's Manual. But since the console is still off, I only have the knob loosely installed and can't twist it. So maybe the cables are properly adjusted; I'm not working on the car today, however, so I don't know for sure.
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