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SPI Performance (2000-2004) The place to chat about any 2.0L Split Port Injection engine performance, tuning and exhaust related upgrades.

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Old 01-02-2012, 06:30 PM   #101
LugNut
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Watching for leaks, etc.

Yes, would have been (not to have the front engine mount installed). But it did seem that I had the tensioner bottomed-out.

Weird issue on the engine -- a small puddle of slightly rusty water forms under the catalytic converter after shutting off the car. Yesterday I thought it might have been from the vehicle that was in the space just before. But no -- today it appeared again (but smaller).

This time I watched where the dirty water was coming from, and it's the exhaust manifold's heat shield! It was very heavy when I reinstalled it. I think what has happened is that I scrubbed it with soap and water, and whatever is sandwiched between its two outer layers of metal sucked up lots of water. And now it's coming out because of the heat -- maybe as it cools off and is squeezed? Weird ...

Reinstalled the grille, after first checking to make sure the hood release (new cable installed) would work. Used a similar-sized screwdriver shaft in the latch to simulate the hood closing. Release then worked fine.

Trans (iB5) was down almost half a quart -- not bad for 10+ years and 132K miles. Changed-out the questionable spark plug wires -- they looked good, but something seemed fishy. Two finally fell apart when being replaced.

Then mainly worked on other stuff on the car today, to get it ready to go out the door. Vac'ed it out well, touched-up the paint, greased all the hinges, and lubed the locks. License plate lights were out; found a good how-to here since it's not documented in the FSM or OM how to get at them. Ordered two new key fob housings for $10 total including S&H. Worked on the fuel door latch; replacement was cracked too so went back to Plan A which was to fabricate a new detent (glue drying now).

Front brakes look excellent, but rear drum is rusted-on so didn't pull it. It's "odd" how the drums don't have the two little tapped holes over each hub, like most others, that work really well as built-in pullers via tightening two bolts through the holes on each drum.

Ran the car again, this time to better observe if the cooling fan kicks on as it should. But ... it is too darn cold today! Couldn't get it warmed up enough (past mid-way on the gauge), in 20 minutes or so, to cause the primary fan to go. Yesterday (much warmer) I got anxious and turned the AC on which activated both fans.
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including rebuilding the SPI (see my threads)

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Old 01-03-2012, 08:36 AM   #102
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Where are the pics? Planning on putting a new head on in March durring spring break. Going to get a new aftermarket head:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-2-0-FORD...item3f0c5351d8
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Old 01-03-2012, 10:51 AM   #103
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Wink Patience, Grasshopper!

Pics: Should be coming soon -- gotta finish the work on the car, then should have time to add pics and a parts/tools list.

New head: I considered those, but they all seemed to be low-cost imports from asia. I decided to go with the remanufactured original head instead. But let us know how it goes!
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Old 01-03-2012, 06:34 PM   #104
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Thumbs up No kaboom

FF to hit the road tomorrow!

This afternoon, first removed the bad window tinting. Big job -- about 45 minutes each window. Wallpaper steamer worked well for getting the film off, but then a heavy glue was left behind. Had to use lots of paint thinner, rags, and elbow grease to get that stuff off.

Then tackled replacing the fuel filter -- the last planned significant job. Had to jack up the car high onto four stands; very dangerous! And then there's the leaking gasoline! About a cup came out. It was very difficult to get the filter's inlet clamp off; undoing the filter bracket-to-floor pan bolt helped.

Then really dirty, very-brown gas came out of the inlet side of the filter. Glad I planned to replace it! New one went in easily, as compared to getting the old one out.
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Old 01-04-2012, 06:21 PM   #105
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Smile Ah .... yes!

Drives nicely!

The reused cam and lifters have 132K miles on them, so they do make a slight bit of noise. Very acceptable though, and it will be interesting to see if it changes as the engine is broken in.

The battery was out of the car for over a month, so the computer, I assume, has to relearn things. But accelerates, gently for now, very nicely. I really like that five speed trans and light-weight feeling of the car! I do need a stock shifter-pattern insert for its knob though -- have a spare?

A bit warmer today, but still couldn't get the temperature gauge above halfway. Was using the heater core a bit though. Again, no first radiator cooling fan operation observed after the test drive; both fans again did work with the AC switch activated. A bit of an odor as the oil and engine paint baked, but no leaks still.

Not a single CEL in this whole thing! Is there an OBDII connector in this car? I wonder if any error codes have been thrown; I have a scanner.
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Old 01-04-2012, 06:26 PM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LugNut View Post
Not a single CEL in this whole thing! Is there an OBDII connector in this car? I wonder if any error codes have been thrown; I have a scanner.
The connector is under the dash near the fuse pannel.
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Old 01-04-2012, 09:15 PM   #107
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It has a flipdown cover.
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Old 01-04-2012, 09:38 PM   #108
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yeah its right below the fuse box access panel behind a trim panel. FYI the only OBDII port I could never find a was in a volvo because it was in the center console/armrest box.

glad it works well... the car wont run quite as well until you put about 20 miles on it. At least its not like another car I had that went to redline when started. I had to put the AC on and sit on the brake a bit while I drove it until it finally learned how to run again.
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Old 01-05-2012, 08:51 PM   #109
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Thumbs up Pics arriving

Thanks --- hopefully will read the codes, if any, on Saturday.

Late January 2012 update: finally did hook up the scanner. The OBDII port was accessed through the lower-left dash bezel (U.S.) -- remove the fuse block cover, then the port's cover is just below it. The connector's block easily pushed out though, and unlike other cars, the engine had to be started (not just with the key in the run position) to read the codes, at least on this car. One error code stored -- idle speed set too high; don't know if it is an old or newly thrown code.

Here's the first of the promised pics, but it made sense to put them in a new, more specific how-to thread on redoing the IMRC:

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=276543

But come back here for the engine rebuild pics! It took a long, long time to do that write-up, so again, don't hold your breath ...
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Old 01-06-2012, 09:44 PM   #110
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Exclamation Whopper of a parts list

OK - use with great caution! You must research your own parts -- don't blame me if any of these are wrong.

Most of the parts were mailordered for decent prices, but some had to be bought locally due to time. Mailorder had no sales taxes, and here's a 5% discount code for RockAuto.com, good through February 26, 2012: 79572341842995

What were "necessary" for the engine rebuild vs. maintenance parts? I'll let you decide. There's a few other little hoses I would have replaced too if I could have found them. And if I had made the decision on the pistons earlier, I could have saved $50, but hey, I have a spare piston!

I'll put it up for sale soon, as well as a couple of wrong parts.

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Specifically for the engine:

Remanufactured cylinder head, eBay, YS4E, $250 (S/H included, both ways)
Piston ring set, DNJ, PR420, $37.79 (for second generation piston design)
Engine rebuild gasket set, DNJ, FGS4039, $145.79
Remanufactured crankshaft kit, Standard, 412 16410, $169.79 (included all bearings; includes $25 core charge, not worth returning)
New piston, pin, and reman. rod, eBay, $95 (only used the rod; free S&H)
Pistons and pins, DNJ, P420, $141.79 (set of four)
Oil pump, DNJ, OP420, $90.89
Water pump, Cardone, 55-23615, $27.79
Timing belt and tensioner, Cloyes, BK283, $39.79
Cylinder head bolt set, Fel-Pro, ES72672, $29.99 (local purchase)
Spark plugs, NGK, 7159, $9.64 (set of four)
Spark plug wire set, Duralast, 4679, $19.99 (local purchase)
PCV valve, OEM, 9887, $3.97
Thermostat, Stant, 14990, $1.64

Category subtotal = $1063.86

Outside the engine:

Heater hose, Gates, 19153, $6.67
Heater hose, Gates, 19746, $8.47
Heater hose, Dayco, 88424, $16.37
Radiator hose, Gates, 22501, $8.01 (the one near the oil filter)
Serpentine belt, Dayco, 5060680, $13.32 (w/AC,PS)
Idler pulley, Dayco, 231081, $17.99 (local purchase)
Fuel filter, Fram, G8018, $6.15
Breather element, Motorcraft, FA1693, $1.33
Air filter, Pronto, PA5324, $4.11
Cat-to-flex pipe gasket, Fel-Pro, 60924, $2.99 (local; required mod)
Radiator fan relay, OEM, ER13, $5.13
Oil filter, Fram, Toughguard, $5.94 (local purchase)

Category subtotal = $96.48

Shop supplies:

Workshop Manuals (Factory Service Manuals, FSM), Ford, $30 (From a member! w/S&H)
Engine assembly lube, $5.49 (local)
Synthetic gear oil, Valvoline, $8.99 (local)
5W20 motor oil, Quaker State, $13.97 (local)
Fuel injector cleaner, STP, $2.77 (local)
Carb cleaner, $1.97 (local)

Category subtotal = $63.19

Other parts:

Clutch kit, LuK, 07-166, $151.99 (eBay; free S&H)
iB5 transmission gearshift cable set, Ford, XS4Z7E395BA, $125.53
Hood latch release cable and handle, Ford, YS4Z16916AA, $40.37
Antenna mast, Ford, 98BZ18A886AA, $25.77
Battery tray (lower half), Ford, 3S4Z10732BA, $30.75
Trunk lifts, Monroe, 901447, $27.34 (for two)
Remote replacement cases, eBay, $9.21 (for two, w/S&H)
Shifter knob - used, eBay, $10 (including S&H)

Category subtotal = $420.96

Shipping $57.74+45.41+13.86+26.24 = $143.25
Discounts -$12.67-19.87-8.16 = -$40.70
_______

Grand total = $1747.04 (plus some sales taxes for local parts)

---

So, including the purchase price of the car, and the tow back here and the parts cost above, it's just under the bluebook value of the car. I get basically no credit for my labor, as is typical. Again, I'm glad this is my hobby! And that the car is going to a good cause.
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