Yet another SPI knocking -- Will Fix It!

[mikebontoft]

you gonna trust a ford service manual? haha... but no Im sure its fine if thats what they had you do.

[LugNut]

"Page 303-01E-141 0f the Ford workshop manual"

Yes, my 2000 FSM does too! Possibly a case of the left hand not knowing what the right hand is doing? Awful advice -- we've known this for many decades (someone forgot, or didn't tell the tech writer?). I wonder if Ford's engineering/quality control folk are aware of this problem in the FSM.

My other project went long, and a couple of other things came up, so I only bled the clutch actuator today:

A couple of nice things, 1) the LuK set has an easy to use bleeder screw, knurled knob and all, and 2) gravity worked well on moving fluid from the shared brake/clutch fluid reservoir through the new clutch slave cylinder and then out. Used about half a pint of new DOT4 fluid to flush out the air and old fluid (until clean). Then, for the first time on this FF, used a helper -- in this case to do a traditional pump and bleed, like for brakes. Got almost no new bubbles.

Then checked the pedal, and got almost none!

After a brief freaking out , came back to the forum and found some mostly excellent advice from user Paul??? in the Technical forum -- run the drain tube back to the reservoir and pump the heck out of the pedal. Pic coming; my tube is about four feet of vinyl 0.25 in. O.D. x 0.170 in. I.D. Got lots of air, and eventually a good pedal. Then used the other half of the pint to do another gravity bleed since some gunk was stirred up by this technique ("mostly" excellent advice).

Worked some more on the pics, and uploaded nine more. Each "album" has a limit of 30 pics, and lots are coming for this engine job, so I started a new one just for the IMRC resto. Each pic should be no bigger than about 95kB according to this site, so after cropping and sometimes adjusting the brightness and contrast I run each pic through Hemera which is a good graphics optimizer/reducer.

Part 2 of the other project will consume tomorrow early-morning, but I hope to then make significant progress on the FF after that. Reassembling the now black-goo-less IMRC is up first.

[LugNut]

Good news! The first two batches of pics have been "moderated", so I will start adding them soon as well as uploading others. But first, must get some real work done!

[LugNut]

Only had a few hours to work on the FF today, but did make some good progress. IMRC assembly resto completed, and more pics uploaded for vetting.

Exhaust manifold and its heat shield, IMRC, intake manifold, throttle body, and even the oil dipstick reinstalled. EGR, valve cover, and rightside engine mount should start off tomorrow. Then lots of plastic parts. If things go swiftly and smoothly ...

[alz focus]

This should be the smoothest running SPI out there.

[LugNut]

Well ... we'll find out, hopefully soon!

That serpentine belt -- what a royal pain to install! My new one might even be a hair longer than the original, but even with the tensioner bottomed-out the belt still wouldn't go on.

After nearly an hour of trying different things, took a break. Always a good thing when stuck on something. And had an idea (after searching here and not finding a solution easily) while in the deep-thought room:

Put a deepwell socket on the hub-nut of the power steering pump, looped the new belt correctly (figure in the FSM), and then used the deepwell to hold the belt for installation (last) over the power steering pulley.

Loosened the bottom (of three) screw for the power steering pump, and removed the top two. This allowed the pump to rotate ever-so-slightly forward.

Then used a 3/8 ratchet on the tensioner, but from the left side (down near the water pump). And after getting the tensioner moving a bit, then slipped on the ratchet's handle a tight-fit socket and three inch extension to give more leverage.

Then, still with significant effort, slipped the belt over the PS pulley, and made sure it was centered in all the pulleys' grooves. The loosened the belt again via the tensioner to carefully reinstall the water pump's bolts. Done! And a good time for a lunch break.

Plastic parts now going back on the engine, but I still need to crawl underneath to tighten the intake's vibration bracket, the cat-to-flex exhaust pipe flange bolts, and to secure the rear O2 sensor's pigtail.

[LugNut]

CLICK THIS LINK AFTER TURNING ON YOUR SOUND HIGH!

[meteor545]

congrats! i hope the car provides reliable transportation (or a good profit, if it's to be a flip)

[LugNut]

Thanks. Actually, it's a gift for the in-laws.

One of the best/easiest start-ups ever for me -- one brief crank, it fired, then died. Then on the second crank it started and ran fine. Only about 10 seconds of mild lifter noise until the oil pressure built up. Adjusted the idle speed and then ran it for about 20 minutes to get it nice and warm. Clutch working great, but only tried it in the driveway in first and reverse.

More general work on the FF tomorrow, then hope to get it licensed, insured, and back on the road -- hopefully for at least another decade.

[alz focus]

I find it easier to install the belt with the motor mount off. Gives much more room to leverage the tensioner.

Gene Wilder is awesome in that role. Congrats.