2012 Roof Rack Install - THULE AeroBlades! - Page 8 - Focus Fanatics
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Old 05-16-2013, 12:19 PM   #71
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Wilsonfocus86,

Why did you go with the "x1 Thule 596 6-pack Lock Cores (have to keep it locked up safe )" as opposed to the 544 4-Pack Lock Cylinder are they any different?

I'm asking because on the Thule website, it recommended I use the 544 Locks. Thanks.
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Old 05-16-2013, 12:33 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueByYou28 View Post
Wilsonfocus86,

Why did you go with the "x1 Thule 596 6-pack Lock Cores (have to keep it locked up safe )" as opposed to the 544 4-Pack Lock Cylinder are they any different?

I'm asking because on the Thule website, it recommended I use the 544 Locks. Thanks.
Because in my order bank I had the bike carriers as well so it defaulted/I opted for the 6-pack of locks as opposed to the 4-pack. (Those don't come with locks either haha it's just more ways for them to make an extra buck ) But better safe than sorry.





Ahh this was my 1,000th post!! Took a while, but I finally made it
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Old 05-16-2013, 01:26 PM   #73
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Yayyyy!!!!! Just ordered the Thule Rapid Traverse Roof Rack System
• 480R Rapid Traverse Foot Pack
• ARB53 AeroBlade Load Bar Pair
• KIT1627 For 480/480R Foot Packs only
• 544 4-Pack Lock Cylinder

Just need to find which bike and snowboard rack I want and I'm good to go!
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Old 05-16-2013, 01:34 PM   #74
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Originally Posted by BlueByYou28 View Post
Yayyyy!!!!! Just ordered the Thule Rapid Traverse Roof Rack System
480R Rapid Traverse Foot Pack
ARB53 AeroBlade Load Bar Pair
KIT1627 For 480/480R Foot Packs only
544 4-Pack Lock Cylinder

Just need to find which bike and snowboard rack I want and I'm good to go!
I'm digging it, awesome It's a nice set-up and system hasn't given me an hassle since I got mine. Any questions, just holler.


(Remember, when you go about getting any carrier for the rack, it will need an Xadapt kit to attach to the AeroBlades.)
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Old 05-16-2013, 01:49 PM   #75
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Originally Posted by wilsonfocus86 View Post
I'm digging it, awesome It's a nice set-up and system hasn't given me an hassle since I got mine. Any questions, just holler.


(Remember, when you go about getting any carrier for the rack, it will need an Xadapt kit to attach to the AeroBlades.)
Thanks for the help and info Wilson. It helped greatly!
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Old 05-16-2013, 10:51 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilsonfocus86 View Post
Exactly. Moved everything over and cut off from the right side leaving the left, with the "THULE" logo.
Great thread, getting my setup together as well, but I wanted to mention that Thule recommends cutting from both ends.

From their FAQ:

Quote:
Q: I want to use a shorter bar than what Thule lists for my vehicle in the fit guide, can I do that or can I cut down the AeroBlade bar to a custom length?
A: Thule always recommends the shortest load bar that will fit the vehicle. The Thule Square bars can easily be cut down and the end cap will cover a imperfect cut. To cut down the AeroBlade, it is necessary to cut all four ends in order to keep the bars centered and an imperfect cut will show. Filing the ends can bring an imperfect cut back into square. Additionally, the end cap has a clip that engages into a notch at the end of the under bar slot, if you cut the bar you will cut away that notch, however, the end cap will still press and hold into place without the notch. So, the answer is yes, the AeroBlades can be cut down but it requires more precision and effort. A rotery miter saw with a non-ferrous metal cutting blade would produce the best results.
As a related question, before cutting down the bars, did you have enough room outboard to mount a bike carrier (if, for example, you had a cargo box in the middle).
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Old 05-16-2013, 11:28 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yanner View Post
Great thread, getting my setup together as well, but I wanted to mention that Thule recommends cutting from both ends.

From their FAQ:



As a related question, before cutting down the bars, did you have enough room outboard to mount a bike carrier (if, for example, you had a cargo box in the middle).
Hey thanks, Yanner, for the information that I didn't really look up haha , but honestly I don't think it's altered anything too much. It looks how it was before. But I know what they/you are talking about. It's held up just fine since doing it however. I had a friend at work who had that "tools" to cut it for me, and it's squared off really nicely. The end caps are still "stuck" on it's not like they are going to fall off.

In a picture I have floating around here, I was able to fit a bike carrier and my cargo box in between the feet of the set-up. Another reason I wanted to chop the overhang, because I didn't (ever use) need/want it anymore!



Amazing this is the only picture of that..
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Last edited by wilsonfocus86; 05-16-2013 at 11:39 PM. Reason: Found the picture
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Old 05-17-2013, 06:56 AM   #78
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If I can't fit a bike outboard of the feet (on the overhang), then I'll probably do the same.
Does your roof box sit level? It doesn't seem like it in the picture, but maybe the angle/driveway is misleading.
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Old 05-17-2013, 09:13 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yanner View Post
If I can't fit a bike outboard of the feet (on the overhang), then I'll probably do the same.
Does your roof box sit level? It doesn't seem like it in the picture, but maybe the angle/driveway is misleading.
But then again, I squeezed everything together for a snug fit, putting the box on first then bike carrier to try and eliminate any wind gaps between the two (for the long distance trip this was). Worked quite well.

Correct. Back at my parents house the driveway slopes towards the left/top left of the picture. We're on a slight hill. Apart from that, the box sat quite level for me I was pleased! (I have the Thule Sidekick for reference).
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Old 05-17-2013, 11:04 AM   #80
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I'm having a hard time getting the front clamps to be flush and even along the door jamb. The rear is fine. It's not going anywhere though.

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