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Old 02-27-2013, 04:32 PM   #1891
Tytanium
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So I bought my '12 Ti HB a few weeks ago and being the autochondriac that I am, was wondering if i should take car to the dealership to do the TSB. It didn't have the latest version of sync on it when I bought it, so I'm assuming the PO (leaser) didn't do do any real dealer service on it. Manufactured in August of '11. I don't get any shuddering or grinding, but the trans does seem to hesitate a lot in auto mode, and reversing takes more pedal than I feel it should. Is there a way I can know if it's been done already?
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Old 02-27-2013, 05:54 PM   #1892
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It's all in the sig lol
oops... I should learn to read the fine print.



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I couldn't give you the exact build date.. 6-11 is all it says on the side of my door. Should i put the VIN# somewhere to get the exact date?
The TSB is does not specify a cutoff date but a 6/11 build date is rather early. I believe many people with later builds than yours have had the oil leak and the TSB performed.

I'm not sure if the dealer will check for an oil leak without a specific complaint. By any chance are you due for an oil change? If you do have an oil leak, you can see the oil where the engine and trans meet. There will also be some oil on the inside of the bottom cover.
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Old 02-27-2013, 10:37 PM   #1893
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So when I go to my local dealership, what exactly should i tell them to get this Update done?
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Old 02-28-2013, 07:55 AM   #1894
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Since I got my first update, it improved the driving a lot, however I noticed the car generally revs higher now. For example it would shift into 6th gear around 35-38 mph and now it won't do it until at least 40 mph. Also when in sport mode (auto), it revs up to 4,000 rpms before shifting up, where as before the update it shifted up around 3,000 rpms. I've gotten worse gas mileage since and worse anticipation/speed ratings.
I got the update around the same time as my Steeda CAI install, so my driving habits probably changed after the CAI install, however, like I said the car is reving higher which I think is a result of the update, so I think the lower mpg i'm seeing is due to the update not the CAI/driving habits.
The car is still shuddering at low speeds unless i'm very lightly touch the gas. As soon as you give it more gas at a low speed, the car shudders, even more so when the engine is cold.
I've also been hearing heavy grinding from my transmission and what sounds like metal balls or marbles being thrown around.

i'm considering getting the extended warranty...

Should I take it back to the dealership again? thx
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Old 02-28-2013, 08:55 AM   #1895
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Since I got my first update, it improved the driving a lot, however I noticed the car generally revs higher now. For example it would shift into 6th gear around 35-38 mph and now it won't do it until at least 40 mph. Also when in sport mode (auto), it revs up to 4,000 rpms before shifting up, where as before the update it shifted up around 3,000 rpms. I've gotten worse gas mileage since and worse anticipation/speed ratings.
I got the update around the same time as my Steeda CAI install, so my driving habits probably changed after the CAI install, however, like I said the car is reving higher which I think is a result of the update, so I think the lower mpg i'm seeing is due to the update not the CAI/driving habits.
The car is still shuddering at low speeds unless i'm very lightly touch the gas. As soon as you give it more gas at a low speed, the car shudders, even more so when the engine is cold.
I've also been hearing heavy grinding from my transmission and what sounds like metal balls or marbles being thrown around.

i'm considering getting the extended warranty...

Should I take it back to the dealership again? thx
Was it just the software / firmware upgrade you got? To really resolve this issue you need to have clutches / seals replaced judging from experiences around here.

Sad to hear people considering buying an extended warranty to resolve an issue that starts occurring when the car is brand new.
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Old 02-28-2013, 09:01 AM   #1896
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Was it just the software / firmware upgrade you got? To really resolve this issue you need to have clutches / seals replaced judging from experiences around here.

Sad to hear people considering buying an extended warranty to resolve an issue that starts occurring when the car is brand new.
when I took the car in, they said at first I would need the clutch replaced, which interestingly enough, he said himself even before I mentioned that I had heard people online saying the clutches/seals needed to be replaced. they then called me and said, it didn't need parts replaced - only a computer update. They said this computer update is not the same as just resetting the driving habits.
Like I said in previous post, it helped a lot at first, but now the car revs higher and now is grinding and making some scary sounds.
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Old 02-28-2013, 09:20 AM   #1897
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when I took the car in, they said at first I would need the clutch replaced, which interestingly enough, he said himself even before I mentioned that I had heard people online saying the clutches/seals needed to be replaced. they then called me and said, it didn't need parts replaced - only a computer update. They said this computer update is not the same as just resetting the driving habits.
Like I said in previous post, it helped a lot at first, but now the car revs higher and now is grinding and making some scary sounds.
Well, there are many here including myself who have had the same experience as you but in the end the clutch / seal replacement seems to be the final answer. Given all the evidence, it's clear the 2012 Focuses all have faulty clutches in them, and that many dealers are resisting changing them under warranty for whatever reason. When the grinding resurfaced on mine a few weeks after the computer update, my dealer did not hesitate to replace the clutches / seals under warranty (I got the clear impression they were very much aware of the true nature of this issue - (how could they not be?)). I'm lucky to have a reputable / responsible dealer. My car's been running great since November. The tech who did the work on my car indicated on the work order that the original clutches were worn out (my car had 10k km on it when this work was done). Others here have had similar comments noted on their work orders for clutch replacement (a couple have described the original clutches as "shredded") which is demonstrative of what is going on inside the transmission when this grinding noise is heard. It's interesting how many dealerships are convincing some people that this noise is "normal" when anyone with any common sense would know that a car shifting like a manual being piloted by a drivers ED student on the first day out, is a car requiring some serious maintenance. As has been said countless times here: Ford needs to step up and extend the warranty on these clutches free of charge and fix them under warranty without all the "it's normal" BS. Having said that, there are a number of recent positive examples on this forum of people getting clutches replaced more readily than when the problem initially started to surface. This is a good sign that Ford and it's dealers are more wiling now to recognize the issue. The customer service rep who posts on this forum has helped some folks here get connected to the right people if they are experiencing push back from dealers on this issue.

Edit: Just noticed after I posted the above that you are driving a 13. The grinding issue has not commonly been reported here from people driving a 13 (usually it's the 2012s). Many have assumed the 2013s had revised clutch assemblies that are performing well and that the clutch replacements on 2012s were bringing them up to 2013 spec. I'm not quite sure what to make of your case and if it possibly means that 2013s are susceptible to the same type problem.

Last edited by Sprint; 02-28-2013 at 10:47 AM.
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Old 02-28-2013, 10:34 AM   #1898
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Well, there are many here including myself who have had the same experience as you but in the end the clutch / seal replacement seems to be the final answer. Given all the evidence, it's clear the 2012 Focuses all have faulty clutches in them, and that many dealers are resisting changing them under warranty for whatever reason. When the grinding resurfaced on mine a few weeks after the computer update, my dealer did not hesitate to replace the clutches / seals under warranty (I got the clear impression they were very much aware of the true nature of this issue - (how could they not be?)). I'm lucky to have a reputable / responsible dealer. My car's been running great since November. The tech who did the work on my car indicated on the work order that the original clutches were worn out (my car had 10k km on it when this work was done). Others here have had similar comments noted on their work orders for clutch replacement (a couple have described the original clutches as "shredded") which is demonstrative of what is going on inside the transmission when this grinding noise is heard. It's interesting how many dealerships are convincing some people that this noise is "normal" when anyone with any common sense would know that a car shifting like a manual being piloted by a drivers ED student on the first day out, is a car requiring some serious maintenance. As has been said countless times here: Ford needs to step up and extend the warranty on these clutches free of charge and fix them under warranty without all the "it's normal" BS. Having said that, there are a number of recent positive examples on this forum of people getting clothes replaced more readily than when the problem initially started to surface. This is a good sign that Ford and it's dealers are more wilingl now to recognize the issue. The customer service rep who posts on this forum has helped some folks here get connected to the right people if there are experiencing push back from dealers on this issue.

Edit: Just noticed after I posted the above that you are driving a 13. The grinding issue has not commonly been reported here from people driving a 13 (usually it's the 2012s). Many have assumed the 2013s had revised clutch assemblies that are performing well and that the clutch replacements on 2012s were bringing them up to 2013 spec. I'm not quite sure what to make of your case and if it possibly means that 2013s are susceptible to the same type problem.
thx for detailed response. Yes I do have the 13'. I was told by 2 independent Ford sources (1 tech and 1 cust serv rep) that the clutch/seal issue from the 12's is not an issue in the 13's - that Ford knew of the problem when they built the 13's and made the fixes/changes necessary.
However, like I said, when I brought my car in the first thing the tech said was I needed a new clutch system. So Ford definately knows but they may be still keeping issues with the 13's on the down-low.

In any case, I personally suspect some kind of clutch/transmission issue with the 13' because even though they said it's different (newer) the first thing the tech said is you need a new clutch system.

Not to mention, this IS a new model vehicle afterall, and may take a couple years to work out all the glitches, right?

In any case, I have faith in Ford but it looks like the DCPS transmission might take us on a "scenic" route... lol.
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Old 02-28-2013, 10:53 AM   #1899
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thx for detailed response. Yes I do have the 13'. I was told by 2 independent Ford sources (1 tech and 1 cust serv rep) that the clutch/seal issue from the 12's is not an issue in the 13's - that Ford knew of the problem when they built the 13's and made the fixes/changes necessary.
However, like I said, when I brought my car in the first thing the tech said was I needed a new clutch system. So Ford definately knows but they may be still keeping issues with the 13's on the down-low.

In any case, I personally suspect some kind of clutch/transmission issue with the 13' because even though they said it's different (newer) the first thing the tech said is you need a new clutch system.

Not to mention, this IS a new model vehicle afterall, and may take a couple years to work out all the glitches, right?

In any case, I have faith in Ford but it looks like the DCPS transmission might take us on a "scenic" route... lol.
Interesting...

As you say it does take a couple of years to get the kinks out of a new model. I got fooled a bit because the initial advertising for this car made it kind of look like a tried and true Euro model Focus that was now being introduced in North America. Part of my decision to buy the car was based on that as I'm not usually in the habit of being an early adopter of new models. As it turns out, this DCT had not been in production prior to 2012 as I had initially thought.

Ah well, live and learn I guess. Other than this transmission issue for which (touch wood) I've been treated very well by my dealer, I really do like all aspects of this vehicle from the style to the amenities to the way it drives and handles - it's a great little car.

Nice speaking with ya!
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Old 02-28-2013, 11:42 AM   #1900
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I just got my used 2012 SEL in December and I'm not sure if it'd had the update done, so I have an appointment on Saturday. Shuddering from take off drives me crazy. It's pretty violent too. My passengers even notice and it's somewhat embarrassing. My car will also bog down under hard acceleration. I had to pull out onto a street where the speed limit is 55mph and it's a busy street, so you have to step on it, but my car shuddered really bad, bogged down, and finally took off. It's kind of unsettling. Also, I wanted to see about the washer fluid TSB, because mine doesn't warn me when it's low or completely empty. Other than that, I love the car!
Do check with your dealer to see if you got the Ford customer satisfaction program # 12B37 (trans.reflash).

It's the first step. If you have this performed, you need to wait about a couple hundred miles while the car readapts. If its still shuddering heavy and bogging down after a 1000 clicks, you need to get your transmission as per all the people on this forum referring to an oil leak in the clutch bell housing thingamajig (comment here http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/s...postcount=1877)

My final notes on the shuddering and bogging is that this car has 2 automated manual transmissions and as such, needs to be handled more like a stick shift than an auto when it comes to using appropriate foot weight on the throttle and anticipating shifts ahead of time. There is a slight delay between putting your foot down and getting the car moving unless you're using the rocker arm shifter. Sport mode helps a bit more.

Lastly, i find pushing your foot to the floorboard isn't as effective as a 10% pressure start to 90% pressure finish. Like the reverse of braking (80% pressure start to 20% pressure finish to avoid locking up the tires in a nonABS car)

Hope you get your problems resolved!
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