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Old 01-07-2013, 10:13 PM   #1771
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My clutch seals weren't leaking but the dealer said one of them wasn't disengaging properly which was causing the slipping while accelerating. I primarily complained about the slipping, but it was also shuddering from a stop. They replaced the clutches under TSB 11-12-13 despite the lack of leakage.
Was the clutch the only thing replaced? Or were there other components? Because if I don't have the oil leak, but it still made the noise that a manual makes when you shift without fully depressing the clutch, perhaps the clutch isn't the only thing wrong with my car?
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Old 01-08-2013, 07:42 AM   #1772
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Was the clutch the only thing replaced? Or were there other components? Because if I don't have the oil leak, but it still made the noise that a manual makes when you shift without fully depressing the clutch, perhaps the clutch isn't the only thing wrong with my car?
It was all the typical parts associated with TSB 11-12-13 that others have posted here.
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Old 01-08-2013, 07:48 AM   #1773
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I don't know if this applies to Ford USA or if it will even help you out or not PratoN, but, when I was getting my 48K (km's) service on Friday, my service manager has stated that FoMoCo Canada has told them very recently that any DCT complaints on any Focus still under warranty to just "do the job under TSB 11-12-13 regardless of the presence of oil or not". So far, everyone is happy, the dealer and Focus owners... LOL.
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Old 01-08-2013, 08:19 AM   #1774
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I don't know if this applies to Ford USA or if it will even help you out or not PratoN, but, when I was getting my 48K (km's) service on Friday, my service manager has stated that FoMoCo Canada has told them very recently that any DCT complaints on any Focus still under warranty to just "do the job under TSB 11-12-13 regardless of the presence of oil or not". So far, everyone is happy, the dealer and Focus owners... LOL.
That may have been what happened to me. They replaced my clutches under 11-12-13 even though they said I had no leakage or shuddering (I had shuddering after the new clutches were installed but that's another story - 5 hard starts cured that). I thought 11-12-13 was specific to seal leaks and their symptoms - e.g. shuddering.
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Old 01-08-2013, 08:26 AM   #1775
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I am curious though what is different in regards to the parts and installation that will make this problem disappear? Same parts will still eventually lead to the same result. As for being happy ... 2 replacements and I have indications of a third leaves me....... quite less than so called happy unless there is medication I should be taken that coincides with the tsb.
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Old 01-08-2013, 09:13 AM   #1776
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I am curious though what is different in regards to the parts and installation that will make this problem disappear? Same parts will still eventually lead to the same result. As for being happy ... 2 replacements and I have indications of a third leaves me....... quite less than so called happy unless there is medication I should be taken that coincides with the tsb.
Supposedly a redesigned seal to keep fluid off the clutch surfaces?

Also early builds should get updated with the rumored "long-rivet clutches" which I haven't seen any detail on.
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Old 01-08-2013, 09:42 AM   #1777
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Supposedly a redesigned seal to keep fluid off the clutch surfaces?

Also early builds should get updated with the rumored "long-rivet clutches" which I haven't seen any detail on.
Those are the only differences as far as I know. There seem to be less 2013s with bad clutches, though there is still an occasional complaint which kind of worries me.
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Old 01-08-2013, 11:26 AM   #1778
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Hello all,
I have a 2013 DCT and that was buit in March 2012. I'm wondering if anyone has experienced any of the issues in this model.
I have put 1800 miles on it in the first three weeks (brand new car). A couple of times it has done a couple weird auto-shifts when I was in sport mode: once when I put it into sport mode it reved up to almost redline (instead of 5-6k RPM, at most, like it normally does. I was on a bit of an incline but it was still really weird. Also I have noticed that the gas pedal vibrates a bit more now than when it was brand new. Also, I drive fairly hard, but do what I can to drive normal/save gas.

Other than that (the weird shift, and the more vibrations) I haven't experienced any significant problems.

Does anyone think I should bring it into a dealership to get it checked out or am I probably okay? Should I try reseting my "shifting strategy", or whatever, that you all were talking about?

And (off-topic) when should my first oil change be?

Thanks.
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Old 01-08-2013, 11:44 AM   #1779
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Hello all,
I have a 2013 DCT and that was buit in March 2012. I'm wondering if anyone has experienced any of the issues in this model.
I have put 1800 miles on it in the first three weeks (brand new car). A couple of times it has done a couple weird auto-shifts when I was in sport mode: once when I put it into sport mode it reved up to almost redline (instead of 5-6k RPM, at most, like it normally does. I was on a bit of an incline but it was still really weird. Also I have noticed that the gas pedal vibrates a bit more now than when it was brand new. Also, I drive fairly hard, but do what I can to drive normal/save gas.

Other than that (the weird shift, and the more vibrations) I haven't experienced any significant problems.

Does anyone think I should bring it into a dealership to get it checked out or am I probably okay? Should I try reseting my "shifting strategy", or whatever, that you all were talking about?

And (off-topic) when should my first oil change be?

Thanks.
It can't be a March 2012 build and be a 2013 MY, 2013 MY builds didn't start until on or after 7/23/12.

If you floor the accelerator it will repeatedly wind out to 6500 rpm or so, although that's less economical than shifting sooner than this.

Its probably ok, the four cylinder engine does shake a touch and it can be felt through the firewall and the pedal assemblies at times. Sometimes higher octane fuels can smooth it out a bit.

First oil change is up to you, you've already passed 1000 miles, some people do their first change before then, others wait until 5000, just change it before 10k miles or 1 year if you want to keep it within the owner's guide to maintain the warranty.
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Old 01-08-2013, 11:45 AM   #1780
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Also I have noticed that the gas pedal vibrates a bit more now than when it was brand new. Also, I drive fairly hard, but do what I can to drive normal/save gas.

Other than that (the weird shift, and the more vibrations) I haven't experienced any significant problems.

Does anyone think I should bring it into a dealership to get it checked out or am I probably okay? Should I try reseting my "shifting strategy", or whatever, that you all were talking about?

And (off-topic) when should my first oil change be?

Thanks.
I don't have the shift issue but my engine does vibrate more at 10k then when new. I took it in and they were going to look at my engine mounts until they decided the vibration was due to the clutches. It wasn't. It vibrates around 1800-2000 rpm, right where I am during most of my commute.

The dealer probably won't do much ("it's normal") but take it in anyway. Can't hurt.

I'd change your factory fill of oil now. Looks like you had a good break in period and now's a good time to get all the metals outta there.
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