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Old 05-13-2012, 11:38 AM   #1131
sirhawkeye
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Originally Posted by Squirtle View Post
I picked up my 09.02(Feb).2012 build SE four weeks ago with 6 miles on it. I hadn't noticed any bad shuddering that others have experienced. Currently have 1056 miles on it, 98% city, so I guess I've been lucky. This past Thursday I got the FSA 12B37, but I haven't noticed any difference. I guess that's a good thing too.
It only mainly applied to Foci built before 8/1/11 or so. That or if your car did have a problem ,some dealers may have already applied the update.

All I know is that is that my car had 11,000 miles on it when I took it in, and the trans problem was getting worse--not better-- with time, like they told me to wait until 3,000 miles, which I did. Only a slight improvement. But it still bucked, knocked, and stalled a few times during heavy acceleration.

So new 2012's may not have the issues the early models did (models made mid-last year).

I'm glad to hear that your doesn't have this issue, because it was a PITA for me to find a dealer that would actual do the flashing and reprogramming on my schedule, and not try to argue with me that it was "normal operation." Apparently to some, periodic stalling an excessive griding from the clutches between shifts is normal. Not in my book.

Luckily now about 90% of the issues are fixed with the update for me. You still do hear some minor clutch noise, but it was not like it was after every gear. I mainly hear it now if I'm accelerating slowly, but under normal driving, I maybe only hear it between 1st and 2nd, and maybe 2nd and 3rd.
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Old 05-13-2012, 02:32 PM   #1132
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We got the 12b37 update done Friday. It was quick and easy (under an hour). Prior to the update there was, of course, rollback on hills, which is completely gone now. There was frequent "grind/chatter" when shifting, especially at the lower levels, now that is down quite a bit and often gone completely. It still drives like a DCT, but guess what, I still walk like a human. I know what I bought and I'm competely happy with it, but for the grind (that is improving). The grind does not hinder performance, it only hindered my spirit, thinking something was wrong. It seems as if some level of noise is par for the course, so I will continue to monitor it, but am overall quite satisfied.

We are also still at under 350 miles, so it could get even better. If anything serious happens in either direction I will post my update, but for now, I can say it is what I was hoping it would be, and I'm happy with that.
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Old 05-13-2012, 03:45 PM   #1133
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We got the 12b37 update done Friday. It was quick and easy (under an hour).
Mine took 3 hours. Weird.
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Old 05-13-2012, 04:44 PM   #1134
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Mine took 3 hours. Weird.
Several possibilities for that:

a. car was queued up and processed in the order received
b. other issues related to the FSA were found and quietly replaced
c. they preferred to be busy ramping up the car's volume to max and let their ear drums explode to the tune of the bouncy beat (sorry, couldn't think of any viable or serious third option... )
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Old 05-13-2012, 10:03 PM   #1135
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Yes, the car (trans and engine) will take about 1000 miles to fully break in. The transmission takes a bit longer to finish its learning cycle, so to get the best out of it, I would avoid any type of "racing" or abrupt starts and stops. Just drive it normally and everything should be fine. I would recommend an oil change, though, at around 1500 miles (that's what I did just to make sure--used synthetic Mobile One). I probably would not do it before 1000 miles though.
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Old 05-14-2012, 06:44 PM   #1136
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Yes, the car (trans and engine) will take about 1000 miles to fully break in. The transmission takes a bit longer to finish its learning cycle, so to get the best out of it, I would avoid any type of "racing" or abrupt starts and stops. Just drive it normally and everything should be fine. I would recommend an oil change, though, at around 1500 miles (that's what I did just to make sure--used synthetic Mobile One). I probably would not do it before 1000 miles though.
And after the flash imposed by the recent FSA, the transmission needs to re-learn. That's the downside, and others have reported having their car for 5000 miles with zero improvement regarding any DST foibles. (A noise without shudder is probably fine (though to me gears grinding is NEVER something to strive for...) but noise with shudder or a noise that sounds like a loose marble jostling around is never a good thing... that's not break-in, that's broken...)

And some have advocated for abrupt/fast starting (e.g. the opposite of "granny mode") because the DST is said not to like slower RPMs when shifting early on...

I did drive mine normally but ended up with the same gear noise, low idle shudder when warm (driving 20 mins), and the new 'chatter' noise when accelerating (which happens well before any gear shift)...
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Old 05-14-2012, 07:23 PM   #1137
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At my local dealer now getting the trans looked at. The other day, after coming to a stop, when the trans went to shift from 1st to 2nd it acted as if the clutch was re-engaged or it was put in neutral and it revved up to 5k or so, then finally shifted. Felt like it went into third, but didn't verify. As soon as this happened it threw a check engine light (P286F, Clutch "A" Performance Disengagement Too Slow I believe). After that happened the car was almost undriveable, was continuously over-revving when shifting and would not go into "S". This continued until the code was cleared. Unfortunately the dealer had no one available to look at the transmission on Saturday so my car had to sit for the weekend. Prior to this the only symptoms I had seen was the "shudder" in reverse. My build date is June 2011, so I've definitely got one of the older builds on here.

They are doing the update (maybe more) now and hopefully i'll have some good news to report back.
So after a week the car is still driving well, but I have noticed that when putting the car in park and shutting off the engine, it occasionally does one of two things:

Lurches, similar to when you let off the clutch in a manual while it's in gear and it stalls.

Rolls slightly before actually "locking" into park, definitely more than it did prior to the update. This is (obviously) more noticeable on hills, but has occurred even on a slight incline.

Has anyone else noticed either of these things?
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Old 05-14-2012, 07:37 PM   #1138
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Rolls slightly before actually "locking" into park, definitely more than it did prior to the update. This is (obviously) more noticeable on hills, but has occurred even on a slight incline.

Has anyone else noticed either of these things?
If you are parking on anything other than a level surface, it is a good idea to engage the parking brake (after putting the trans. in 'P' but before taking your foot off of the brake pedal).

The parking pawl should be used only as a "backup".
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Old 05-14-2012, 08:01 PM   #1139
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If you are parking on anything other than a level surface, it is a good idea to engage the parking brake (after putting the trans. in 'P' but before taking your foot off of the brake pedal).

The parking pawl should be used only as a "backup".
Why do you have to shift into park first? I always pull the parking brake first and then shift into park.
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Old 05-14-2012, 08:35 PM   #1140
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So after a week the car is still driving well, but I have noticed that when putting the car in park and shutting off the engine, it occasionally does one of two things...
From the day one, when parking my car on an incline, I was told to first use the hand-brake, put the car in N to transfer the weight to it, then to P. This car is acting almost as a manual transmission one and you should always use the hand-brake before putting into P.
I have to say this is my first automatic car and I thought that not using the hand-brake would be just fine, but let me say it isn't true. And it doesn't have anything with the FSA or TSB, IMO. If I don't use the hand-brake, it will stress the transmission when parking on an incline. And yes, it will act as a normal manual transmission equiped car.
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