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Old 08-18-2012, 11:16 AM   #91
svtguy88
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Again, this is going off of what my car is like, but dropping the subframe isn't really that difficult. I didn't want to do it either, but once you bite the bullet, it's not that bad.

The bolts are tight, so air tools are useful, but not absolutely necessary. Back them out evenly, and the subframe will drop down nice and slow. Put a floor jack under it to support it (just in case you back the bolts out too far).
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Old 08-18-2012, 01:53 PM   #92
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You don't need to drop the subframe completely.
Leave the forward two bolts in, tilt the subframe so the rear is hanging down 3".
I didn't find any part of the front swaybar install tricky, very straightforward.
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Old 08-20-2012, 03:12 PM   #93
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oh ok that makes it sound so much better and less stress full then i thought lol thanks guys ill let you know how it goes here pb next month lol
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Old 03-16-2014, 10:20 AM   #94
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So I replaced my stuts with some Konis and it was raining so I when ahead tackled the sway bars. It looks easy enough in the pics and I have air tools so I started. It took every bit of four hours. With air it helps but the sway bar brackets air can't be used. So it took most of the time getting those out. Oddly enough it went back together alot faster. I completely removed all sub frame bolts and it hangs nicely. I actually could have used more of a drop to get more room. Anyway putting all the sub frame bolts back in as far as lining them up with the holes was easy. No issues at all. Maybe 30 minutes after the new sway bar was positioned. Hours laying on concrete takes it toll. My body hurts. Lol.
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Old 03-16-2014, 04:23 PM   #95
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Moved to "Brakes, Suspension & Chassis".

Useful "How To" left behind when the sections were split.

Good to see it helped again, and appreciate the notes on what worked easiest for you.

Rest up the sore back, then have some fun with the new suspension!

Cheers
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