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Old 10-18-2011, 09:12 PM   #21
GoodwrenchEG
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I blew the motor at 80k miles-ish it since the first few months had a tick, I guess was the fuel infectors, but the hydrolock gave it a different tick.

I am sure I can get a 2.3 L engine in there if its as easy as you guys say, but I do not anyone to tune it.. I cannot swing all the motor labor and parts and still buy the tune tool from SCT for another $400 to $800.

I figures $800 for motor if I get the 2.3L, $200 for the odds and ends..
then labor.



so lets get this check list out of the way..

2007 Ford Focus 2.0L Engine swap.

1 Take all accessory and other parts attached to block
2 Put 2.0 intake manifold on 2.3
3 Buy 2.3 pass motor mount(or buy 1/2 inch worth of washers) and acc belt
4 Redrill dip stick from 2.0 to fit 2.3 ( not 100% sure whats involved but sounds cheap enough...
5 Tune Engine to 2.3L specs ( not sure where to go in Vegas for that )

washers to raise the engine mount will run you about $6, the accessory belt about $25, drilling the hole in the dipstick tube will run you 15 minutes of labor max.


Using the 2.3L IM has a benifit? I would just use the 2.0L IM if that works just as good. I would like to keep this simple.

I assume tranny can handle the engine. My CAI and Mass air flow sensor is same.



Will the car run ok without the tune till I find someone if I just pop all that in there

?
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Old 10-18-2011, 09:53 PM   #22
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#4 - see that bolt that holds your dipstick tube to the IM, just drill another hole half an inch above that.

The 2.3 IM is probably more restrictive overall because of the tumble flaps, and the only benefit to it is that it supposedly helps with low end torque. Honestly it's not worth the effort to use it, since its will require a new wire harness and ECU. If you ever get an aftermarket IM like Cosworth, it would be a complete waste of time anyway.

Also it should run OK as long as you don't WOT (floor pedal) till you get a tune. The ECU is able to make adjustments to the A/F ratio up to %23 off from the manufactures settings, however at WOT the adjustments are disabled.
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Old 10-19-2011, 12:07 AM   #23
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Then the only issue I have is finding someone in Las Vegas to do a tune...
and finding a cheap enough engine...
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Old 10-19-2011, 12:10 AM   #24
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will any D23 2.3L work or should I get a certain year, seeing how my 2.0L is 2007?
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Old 10-19-2011, 06:32 AM   #25
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When it comes time to just the long block (engine by itself) all the D23's are the same from 03-07. The 03-04 PZEV models will have an aluminum valve cover however.

As far as a tune is concerned, Turbo Tom will be your best bet. For $400 he'll ship you out an xcal 3 with a base tune to start with. Then he'll have you data log the car and email the results back to him so he can send you a final tune with any precise adjustments that need to be made. He also gives free update tunes for life unless you go F/I later.


He's pretty big on the forums so just look for him and PM him with any questinos.
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Old 10-19-2011, 06:05 PM   #26
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I ordered the 2.3L today from a yard, $1000 2003 38k miles on it..

I hope it works... Any reason it should not ?

Big jump from the $550 motor 2.oL 35k miles

Anything else I should know... ?

got me scared lol never thought I would drop in a 2.3L in my car



Now I need to talk to Turbo Tom i guess..

Last edited by GoodwrenchEG; 10-19-2011 at 06:07 PM. Reason: added info
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:01 PM   #27
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I would tell the seller, that for that much money it better work. Just make sure you get a warranty with it.

Since it doesn't have a lot of miles on it, just make sure it rotates fine and isn't leaking any fluid. You never know where it was sitting in the salvage yard, so do be sure to look for any physical damage to the outside of the long block.

Since you're not planning to rebuild it, there isn't much for you to replace other than the spark plugs. You could replace the pcv valve and water pump, but those are optional. With the low mileage that it has, there is no need to change the timing chain, and as long as the previous owner did oil changes at regular intervals, the oil pump should be fine too. However I would definitely recommend that you change the oil after the first 20 miles, to flush out any old dirt and gunk that has been in the engine since the last time it was ran.
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Old 10-20-2011, 12:51 AM   #28
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Comes with a 6 Month Warrenty or 6000 miles.
Its a fresh pull off a car, infact it was removed today.

Is everyone sure the 2.3L engine 2003 will fit in the 2.0L 2007?
with ONLY the parts mentioned...?
are the fuel rails and all be an issue?
my old engine is Half way out, tomorrow is planned to buy the 2.3L

I do have a new Issue, the exause manifold is cracked, so I need a new one... what will fit? What will be best? the 2.3L another 2.0L or a ST?

Last edited by GoodwrenchEG; 10-20-2011 at 12:52 AM. Reason: added info
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Old 10-20-2011, 08:04 AM   #29
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Yes it will fit; the only difference between the two is that the 2.3 has a taller short block to equate for its longer stroke. Also the fuel rail will not be a problem, just use everything from your current engine minus the stuff I mentioned earlier.

If your exhaust manifold is cracked, it's best to just get another one or either get a patch welded on your current one. The exhaust manifold from the 2003 is the PZEV version which is more restrictive, so you wouldn't want that. Going aftermarket is also a choice, but then we're talking more money.
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Old 10-20-2011, 09:05 AM   #30
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this Header seemed cheap enough...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/160656679790...84.m1436.l2649
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