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Old 11-26-2004, 07:17 PM   #71
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Gorgeous...now that's a great how-to.
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Old 11-26-2004, 07:26 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally posted by OSSO002
I got only 1 packet of lube, is that enough?
You don't even need to use half of it.. If you look at the stock, it wasn't that lubed up and it ran smooth. I only used 1/2 of it unless you want to take out the stabilizer bracket(PITA!) and lube it up - even then you still don't need the whole tube.
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Old 11-29-2004, 04:57 PM   #73
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WD40-
I printed the text from your write-up to use as a guide - was better than the info that came with the stick!! Thanks!

Install was no prob. I got one tube of lube and it is plenty - the most important place for it is in the little black cup, the upper piece. HOWEVER - I didn't like the feel of that Prothane grease - the stuff is VERY tenacious - sticky so much that the stick, to me, didn't move freely enough. So, after I got it all installed, I took it back apart and used some special bicycle wheel bearing grease I had from when I used to be the head mechanic in a bike shop. I recommend it highly for something like this. It's called Phil Waterproof Grease made by Phil Wood company - http://www.philwood.com/webcatolog/pg16.htm I use this stuff exclusively for bike wheel bearings - it comes out of the tube kind of thick but becomes really smooth once installed in a bearing or on the end of a shifter.

The great thing about it, which may not apply for those of you in souther climates, is that in cold weather it does not get really thick. The supplied Prothane grease out of the tube is really sticky and in cold weather it get worse, in my experience.

ANYWAY - compared to the prothane stuff, the stick now centers very nicely and quickly when in neutral and in no way do I feel like I'm pushing against thick grease.

Just my two cents guys - if you want the Phil grease, check a local bike shop first.

Later, Kevin
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Old 11-29-2004, 06:10 PM   #74
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So, after I got it all installed,
I took it back apart and used some special bicycle wheel bearing grease
I had from when I used to be the head mechanic in a bike shop.
I recommend it highly for something like this.
It's called Phil Waterproof Grease made by Phil Wood company

Thanks for the tip!
Actually, I have two tubes of that in my "Mega MTB Repair Tool Kit".
I like that stuff too.
I'll give it a try if needed, though I haven't experienced abnormal shifting yet.
Coldest I've driven with the STS so far was the mid-teens.
Getting it back tomorrow with the clutch/tranny TSB.
We'll see how it does then, since it was barely 8F this morning. BRRRRRRR!
I'm missing my heated seats!!!!
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Old 11-30-2004, 07:34 AM   #75
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WD-

No problem. I'm actually suprised you have the same grease - I didn't think it was all that common - very cool. I just want to clarify, not a big issue or anything, but here goes - Oh, and I stand corrected on the supplied grease - not Prothane but Energy Suspension grease - a little technicality.

Anyway, I don't think the supplied grease would cause a shifting problem I just think it is, lets say - more restrictive to shifter movement than the Phil Wood grease is. And certainly this matter is one of personal preference too - I like the stick to autocenter into neutral very freely and I found the Energy Susp grease to be a bit to sticky for my likings - for me, if the grease decreases feedback through the shifter it's too restrictive. Now, I didn't give the Energy Susp grease any time to loosen up or anything like that so maybe with time it gets smoother and less sticky - you all that have used the supplied grease for a while can post feedback along those lines.

C-ya!
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Old 11-30-2004, 01:36 PM   #76
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OT: Phil Wood Grease

That Phil Wood grease is the only product that held up for me in the ugly NorthWest mud.
Tried several different types for my MTB wheel, bottom bracket, and head-set bearings,
but always came back to the tried and true Phil Wood.
Good stuff.
Course, now, I've got sealed bearings for everything, so I don't need to worry about the grease.
That's why I've still got 2 tubes sitting around.

Last edited by WD40; 12-02-2004 at 12:12 PM.
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Old 12-02-2004, 11:53 AM   #77
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Just an update.

I like the shifter just fine - similar improvements as everyone has said so far.

My one gripe is that the throw to 5th is as much of a reach if not more than with the original shifter - and my main impression is that it is a bigger reach, just feels awkward and stretched out.

SO.....I took the shifter out one last time and put a bend in it similar to the angle the original shifter has. I just took the knob off, left the little aluminum box thingy and the plastic cups on the lower end. The way I bent it will sound barbaric but it was effective and caused no damage. I just set the shifter rod across two 2x4's set on edge on the floor about 2-3inches apart and persuaded a bend to form with a 2.5lb hammer (pounded it). Just put the threaded end on top of one block and the part of the rod above the ball/aluminum box on the other block. The wood won't mess up the threads, no worry there. Obviously if you have a good solid vice, that is the way to go but I don't have one. I angled it backwards and VERY slightly to the drivers side - maybe 1/2 degree to the drivers side - and now it truly is a perfect shifter. The angle backwards is basically identical to the original shifter. Once it is all installed, you would never know it had a bend (just like the original) but it puts the knob back about an inch and makes the whole shift pattern even smoother and more fun to go through, especially the 4-5 or 6-5 shifts.

My only word of caution is to not put too much bend in it towards the drivers side - if too much, when going into reverse you will be nearly hitting the side of the seat. The safest bet is a straight bend backwards but if you are careful, a minimal bend (less than a degree) towards the drivers side really helps the 4-5 up-shift.

I'm really suprised FRPP/Steeda doesn't but a bend in the shifter because, in my opinion, it really makes the whole set-up perfect - but maybe the extra manufacturing step, however simple, is just not cost effective.

So, for those of you who haven't installed the shifter yet, you might want to consider putting a slight bend in the stick - I wouldn't go more than the original but that amount or less will certainly only improve the feel of this upgrade.

Of course, my 2 cents....

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Old 12-02-2004, 12:17 PM   #78
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Nice job!
I'm glad someone else tried this first, cause I thought of doing the very same thing.
I'm also wanting the top of the shifter to be ~1" further back.

Exactly, where (up/down) did you put the bend?
Approximately the same distance from the bottom of the shifter, where the stock one is bent?

Thanks again. This is great info, onebluemcm.
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Old 12-02-2004, 04:57 PM   #79
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Glad to be of help - most of the time I'm not afraid to try stuff but all the time the well-being of the car is my first concern - I don't fool around with stuff if I'm not pretty darn sure it will work and won't be a safety issue.

The bend is basically just in the middle of the length of the shifter rod from the threaded end to the ball. I couldn't be any more precise about that because I didn't have a vice to put it in. Worked out great, though and I'm not sure the level of the bend is all that important as long as you keep in mind how far backwards the upper end of the stick gets moved.

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Old 12-02-2004, 05:03 PM   #80
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Looks good.

Nice write up and very detailed too.
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