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Old 01-25-2013, 01:25 PM   #1891
Dysan911
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Here's the sound of a bad Drop Link Bar/Rod. This is EXACTLY the sound I'm having.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6c1r869BV3o
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Old 01-25-2013, 02:08 PM   #1892
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Originally Posted by Dysan911 View Post
...This is EXACTLY the sound I'm having...
Dysan911,

Iím able to include this when I escalate the concern to your regional customer service manager. So I can do that, please PM me your phone number, full name, dealer details, approximate mileage, and VIN.

Cory
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Old 01-25-2013, 02:29 PM   #1893
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Dysan911,

Iím able to include this when I escalate the concern to your regional customer service manager. So I can do that, please PM me your phone number, full name, dealer details, approximate mileage, and VIN.

Cory
Cory, Thanks but I'm not sure if you realize I've already taken my car into my local dealer's service dept and they've made an attempt to repair it already. When I told them it didn't fix the issue I got told basically that they want to see I'm completely satisfied and that I have plenty of warranty left, they will talk to the technician who worked on my car and get back to me. This was Wed. I guess it takes a while to talk to a technician. If sending you anything can do anything more for me than I've already done let me know.

Thx.
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Old 01-25-2013, 02:44 PM   #1894
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Originally Posted by Dysan911 View Post
Here's the sound of a bad Drop Link Bar/Rod. This is EXACTLY the sound I'm having.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6c1r869BV3o
remove the sway bar and end links. don't just disconnect it, as it may be hitting things or vibrate more.
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Old 01-25-2013, 03:00 PM   #1895
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remove the sway bar and end links. don't just disconnect it, as it may be hitting things or vibrate more.
thats about a 3 hour job ,have to lower the subframe to get the bar out,just talked to my dealer about cost yesterday(for a steeda bar) since no dealer(4) will even look at my car(car leans right front and bad steering,clunk)
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Old 01-25-2013, 03:16 PM   #1896
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Z,

When you said you dropped the sway bar or (End links). You were referring to the drop link right? Thats the same thing correct?

I removed the endlinks entirely and ziptied the sway bar tight with heavy duty wire ties, with tension in both directions (up and down). That thing wasn't moving anywhere.

Regardless of what I did, the noise didn't improve when I removed the endlinks or mass dampers.

The last thing I did prior to trading the car was reinstall the stock dampers, strut bearings, mounts, and associated hardware. The noise got worse after reinstalling the factory bits.
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Old 01-25-2013, 03:34 PM   #1897
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I removed the endlinks entirely and ziptied the sway bar tight with heavy duty wire ties, with tension in both directions (up and down). That thing wasn't moving anywhere.

Regardless of what I did, the noise didn't improve when I removed the endlinks or mass dampers.

The last thing I did prior to trading the car was reinstall the stock dampers, strut bearings, mounts, and associated hardware. The noise got worse after reinstalling the factory bits.
Well then it's gotta be the LCA where it mounts to the frame. I mean wtf else can it be?
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Old 01-25-2013, 04:16 PM   #1898
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Well then it's gotta be the LCA where it mounts to the frame. I mean wtf else can it be?
aren't there 3 or 4 bushings on it?
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Old 01-25-2013, 04:19 PM   #1899
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aren't there 3 or 4 bushings on it?

yeah I think so and I'm leaning more towards the bushing where it attaches to the subframe. This could be another part that sensitive to extra weight in the car, braking and turning (Extra stress on the bushing during these conditions)
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Old 01-25-2013, 04:26 PM   #1900
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yeah I think so and I'm leaning more towards the bushing where it attaches to the subframe. This could be another part that sensitive to extra weight in the car, braking and turning (Extra stress on the bushing during these conditions)
if the bushing is too thin or the bolt hole too wide, i could see it being a suspect. you'd have to measure the bushing dimensions and call around to find an aftermarket one to fit in (or cut one to size).

if you jack up the car on one side and try to shake the wheel, it should be reproducible. it's the same trick when checking the wheel bearings.
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