2012 Titanium Front Strut Low Speed Noise (Clunk/Rattle) - Page 147 - Ford Focus Forum, Ford Focus ST Forum, Ford Focus RS Forum
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Old 11-02-2012, 01:36 PM   #1461
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Yep. Mounts are only 12 bucks, and the bearings are only 8.

Another option would be to go with M9 bolts, though I'm not sure how common those are. What would be the torque limit and strength of an M9 bolt vs the stock M8 and the larger M10?

I'll try to check the size of my bolts and the size of the holes in the strut tower tonight, just see how much room we have to play.

Also, if you're going to head down the route of machining a strut mount to accept larger bolts, I would go with the ST strut mount. It's a bit more robust than the regular Focus mount.

Depending on what happens after more people try the 'fix' this weekend, I'd be willing to give it a shot, Praton. I appreciate the offer.
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Old 11-02-2012, 02:11 PM   #1462
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zillon View Post
Yep. Mounts are only 12 bucks, and the bearings are only 8.
Do the bearings come with (pressed into, I assume) the mounts? I don't see the bearing listed on the ford parts illustration.

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Another option would be to go with M9 bolts, though I'm not sure how common those are. What would be the torque limit and strength of an M9 bolt vs the stock M8 and the larger M10?
Good luck ever finding an M9.

HOWEVER... since we're drilling these out anyway, why limit ourselves? You might be able to get a extra fine 3/8" bolt to fit in there!

With grade 8 bolts, it gives us more strength than the M8 but less than the M10 - which might be overkill anyway. I think we're on to something... I just hope bolt stretch is the issue before we start throwing (more) money at the problem. haha
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Old 11-02-2012, 02:18 PM   #1463
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The bearings are Motorcraft #AD-1094/Ford #CV6Z-18198-A, and separate from the mounts.

The ST strut mounts are Motorcraft #AD-1098.

Personally, I'd rather stay metric, simply out of a desire to maintain uniformity amongst the hardware on the car. Also, I'd like to keep the number of sockets in the tool bag I keep in my car to a minimum.
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Old 11-02-2012, 02:20 PM   #1464
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Quote:
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The bearings are Motorcraft #AD-1094/Ford #CV6Z-18198-A, and separate from the mounts.

The ST strut mounts are Motorcraft #AD-1098.
Thanks

Quote:
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Personally, I'd rather stay metric, simply out of a desire to maintain uniformity amongst the hardware on the car. Also, I'd like to keep the number of sockets in the tool bag I keep in my car to a minimum.
True, but I don't think we're in a position to be picky... heh. If Ford makes a change on future vehicles, they can use M10. But if a 3/8" bolt fits in the frame and an M10 doesn't, that's our best bet for getting others to try the modification. Plus, it's easier to find extra fine threads for non-metric threads for some reason...
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Old 11-02-2012, 02:24 PM   #1465
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Unfortunately, I have to come back on and state that my clunk is back as bad as before. I know it wasn't placebo; my car was a lot quieter at the beginning of the week.

I'm going to try and get a decent look around my suspension this weekend. It has gotten bad enough now that I am starting to be able to hear a clunk by simply turning the wheel, without the car even being in motion. To me, that normally signifies tie-rod ends, and I'm really curious as to what some snooping may find. I don't have chassis ears but I do have a stethoscope, and now that I no longer have to be moving to hear something I can try and check it out a little more.

My only concern is whether the initial clunk is possibly causing more premature failure in my front end.

As for torque and bolt stretch, I have to remind (or at least mention) people that if you walk into most automotive shops that you will see the majority of work being done with an impact driver (average guns are rated around 60 ft. lbs). I'm not slandering auto mechanics or Ford, but when the tech came out and hit my wiper arm nut with an impact gun I wanted to lose my mind (hence why I attempted my retorque without taking the arm off, as I'm sure my wiper arm is not permanently affixed to the car). I am truly glad to see that people are not only concerned with figuring out our non-Ford sponsored fix, but the fact that they are doing everything within their means to locate actual tolerances and values in an attempt to keep it from just being a redneck duct-tape fix.
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Old 11-02-2012, 02:29 PM   #1466
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Quote:
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As for torque and bolt stretch, I have to remind (or at least mention) people that if you walk into most automotive shops that you will see the majority of work being done with an impact driver (average guns are rated around 60 ft. lbs). I'm not slandering auto mechanics or Ford, but when the tech came out and hit my wiper arm nut with an impact gun I wanted to lose my mind (hence why I attempted my retorque without taking the arm off, as I'm sure my wiper arm is not [sic] permanently affixed to the car) .
Tell me about it. I once had someone tell me he used a large cordless impact wrench to put on lugnuts but couldn’t take them off later that day (the battery likely lost power). I was like ARE YOU CRAZY!? THOSE LUGS ARE RATED AT 100FT-LB!
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I am truly glad to see that people are not only concerned with figuring out our non-Ford sponsored fix, but the fact that they are doing everything within their means to locate actual tolerances and values in an attempt to keep it from just being a redneck duct-tape fix.
Best part is: I don’t even have the clunk. haha
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Old 11-02-2012, 02:32 PM   #1467
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Mine seems to have quieted back down a bit with the arrival of temperatures in the mid-40s. It's still there, though, and was getting progressively worse on a long drive I took last Saturday.

I'll run home and grab my calipers after I get out of work, and measure the size of the holes in the strut tower.

My one big question is: Why aren't the STs having this problem? What did they change?
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Old 11-02-2012, 02:38 PM   #1468
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zillon View Post
Mine seems to have quieted back down a bit with the arrival of temperatures in the mid-40s. It's still there, though, and was getting progressively worse on a long drive I took last Saturday.

I'll run home and grab my calipers after I get out of work, and measure the size of the holes in the strut tower.

My one big question is: Why aren't the STs having this problem? What did they change?
It's not just the ST's, there are thousands of cars out there that also don't have the clunk. My buddies Ti, outfitted EXACTLY like mine but built I think 30 days later (ok, so Job 2 difference, but identically painted and optioned), does not have the clunk.

What is different, suspension-wise, between my car and his?
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Old 11-02-2012, 02:40 PM   #1469
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Quote:
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My one big question is: Why aren't the STs having this problem? What did they change?
They haven't been out that long...? :-\

EDIT: True, STs use the same M8x32mm.... When you guys replaced mounts, etc. Did you replace the bolts? Do you think it could be a bad batch (or several..) of bolts? If Ford/the bolt company throws all the bolts in a vat - who would really know which build date got which batch of bolts?
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Old 11-02-2012, 02:47 PM   #1470
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Quote:
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It's not just the ST's, there are thousands of cars out there that also don't have the clunk. My buddies Ti, outfitted EXACTLY like mine but built I think 30 days later (ok, so Job 2 difference, but identically painted and optioned), does not have the clunk.

What is different, suspension-wise, between my car and his?
Idk, since the mass dampers don't seem to be a definite sign of a clunk free ride, but I was told that I don't have them by everyone since I only have an SEL and a Job 2 build, but I've taken a picture of the suspension to prove that I do have them, but some one else on here had a car built a few days before mine and does not.
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