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Old 04-24-2014, 03:04 PM   #1
alaskanzx5
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advice/suggestuons on picking a clutch

Need to replace my clutch and looking for advice or suggestions.
While I'm in there I want to do a lightweight flywheel as well

As far as engine mods go its just going to be bolt one and a tune, maybe some cams.


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Old 04-24-2014, 04:08 PM   #2
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CenterForce dual Friction with a LuK SVT slave.

Or just use a exedy OEM
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Old 04-24-2014, 04:22 PM   #3
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I've been looking at all the options, I doubt I'll make it to 150hp from basic bolt ons and a tune, don't see cams getting me there either.

From what I read the exedy OEM is good for up to 190ftlbs of torque. And fir the price bit a bad option.

What flywheel though? Anyone ever have ant issued with fidanza or spec flywheels? Then there is clutch master.
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Old 04-24-2014, 09:53 PM   #4
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I am using the CenterForce DF, LuK slave with my OEM flywheel.
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Old 04-24-2014, 09:55 PM   #5
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SVT header conversion, stage 2-3 cams with cam gears, exhaust and a good tune will get you easily to 150... if not 160... your starting with 130 WHP stock.

I have the FS sport aluminum flywheel and Luk Pro Gold clutch. the FS sport alum flywheel is the same as the fidanza flywheel. Some dont like the alum flywheels as less energy is stored in it so changing gears is different. I think my car does rev a bit faster, but all depends on how you drive and what application your using your car.
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Old 04-25-2014, 02:13 AM   #6
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Car has arm intake, light weight pulleys, cfm throttle body, the header is a long tube 4-2-1 don't remember the company but they didn't last long, custom exhaust front to back looks like 2.5", and the bat inc big brake kit up front.
Got it with everything but the tb.
And I thought these cars came stock at 110@the crank.

Either way would an exeedy OEM replacement hold up to basic bolt on, tune and maybe stage 1 cams and cam gears?

As for the flywheel does it make daily driving any different. Car at most might see a drag strip once or twice a year just for the fun of it but its just gong to be a daily driver.
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Old 04-25-2014, 10:28 AM   #7
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Motor produces: 128 hp (97 kW) and 135 lb·ft (183 Nm)

Dont bother with a stage 1... get at minimum a stage 2 or 3 Comp cams... (part # 108200 or 108300) a good tune will allow for it to be just as drivable as the stage 1 but give you better range at the top end.

Most clutches will hold up to a % over stock power. usually its 25% over stock WHP. so 130HP a stock replacement should be able to handle up to 161hp. You should be fine. I dont think I have heard of people who have gone with a quality clutch having issues when they have only bolt ons.

Fly wheel does not really do much from what I have seen. for drag people may want to correct me if I am wrong, but you may want to keep the heavy clutch. Because with more weight rotating when you drop the clutch it will help you better launch. with a lighter weight flywheel you have to be better with the clutch. It does let you rev faster but for drag your usually staged and at a set rev for a few moments before the tree changes green.
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Old 04-25-2014, 12:41 PM   #8
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So I guess I'll stick with the stock flywheel, sound like a flywheel would be more useful on twisty tracks where quicker acceleration is needed. Car already revs fairly quick with lightweight puleys.
And the exedy OEM replacement should be good. Daily driver and I don't take it hard on the clutch at all. I've heard stage 2and up clutches have a tendency to make more noise to.
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Old 04-25-2014, 01:05 PM   #9
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Since you seem to have some knowledge of cams figure I'll go ahead and ask.

From what I see the stage 1 cosworth cams don't need any other modifications. Something I like since I'm new to that kind of work.
If going with the stage 2 it says you need valve springs and retainers. If I remember right those are easily installed and don't take any extra work or machining to do. Is there any valves I could use that are better then stock but not need machining?
And I want to keep a smooth idle. Thinking of replacing the lightweight crank pulley with the stock balance pulley to help take care of some of the vibrations.
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Old 04-25-2014, 01:22 PM   #10
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I notice you are talking about, noise and smooth and such. Leave stock if that's your goal...

I have all 3 poly bushings. the Alum flywheel does make a whine when in first gear (flywheel or clutch not sure really as replaced them together). I have no care about the noise or vibrations of my car.

The reason why I said Comp cams is because they "don't" require upgraded valves and retainers. their lift is not as high but have longer duration.

EVERY thing could require machining. even stage 1 cams. you need to check the valve lash (although on DOHC's with the buckets its really called something else...). you likely can get away with moving the buckets around. You may need to clearance the head so the lobe can fit (thus the comp's say drop in replacement because of a lower lift). The Crower springs and retainers (only upgraded over stock that I know of) I had installed and the head did require a bit of machine work to make sure they seated correctly as the tolerance of the spring seat varies with each head.

Go you YouTube there are videos of people with comp cams stage 2 and stage 3 at idle see if its what you want. Not sure what kind of gains you get from stage 1 vs stock. you will gain more by having adjustable gears on the stock cams and getting it dyno tuned to dial in the cams. a few members picked up around 10whp IIRC.
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