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Old 08-18-2011, 12:46 AM   #1
rsvp9146
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How to change the alternator on a Duratec in about an hour.

My alternator went out on me a few days ago and found that there wasnt a lot of info on how to do the job. It turned out to be way easy.

I called my local dealer (South Bay Ford) with my VIN to get the part number for the alternator. Well, they wouldn't give me it. Even a chat with the parts manager yielded no results ever after reminding them I bought the damn car there...

The sevice manager was kind enough to quote me $482 for a new one and $1200 to replace it. After promptly telling them to kiss my ass, I went down to Rotex (local rebuilder in Gardena, CA). They had it rebuilt with warranty in four hours for $140. Slapped it back in and the car runs like a champ now.

After looking at the different alternators for the car, it appears the only difference between the manual and automatic ones is amperage output. The alternator has a "dogbone" type mounting boss cast into it with one hole on the top, and two at the bottom.

Tools needed..

10mm wrench and socket
13mm deep socket
15mm deep socket
15mm wrench
E8 Torx socket
Floor jack and jackstands


Here's the procedure

1. Remove negative lead from battery for safety. You can cause permanent damage to both you and your car without disconnecting the lead.

2. Jack up passenger side of car and remove the splash shield covering the belt pulleys.

3. Take note of the serpentine belt routing around the pulleys. The belt tensioner is the pulley to the very rear and bottom of the engine. You'll see a 15mm nut cast into he tensioner housing. Use a 15mm wrench to rotate the tensioner assembly. This will relieve tension on the belt and allow you to remove it. You can just cut the belt off if you are installing a new one too.

4. Locate the alternator on the back of the engine. You'll see an angled funnel-like air duct on the alternator housing with two tabs on either side. Squeeze the tabs in on each side and pull the duct off.

5. Use a deep 15mm socket to remove the upper and lower nuts holding the black air duct to the alternator. You wont be able to see the bottom nut, but it looks just like the top. Remove the two nuts and pull the cover off. Also remove the bracket holding the wiring onto the studs.

6. Once the cover is off, remove the two 15mm nuts That hold the alternator to the block. At this point, the mounting studs should still be in the block.

7. Now the key to making this an easy job. Use an E8 Torx socket to remove both the top and bottom mounting studs from the block. If you have problems removing them, spray some Kroil on them and let them sit for a while.

8. Now remove the remaining 13mm bolt on the bottom of the "dogbone" piece . The alternator will now be free of the engine.

9. Remove the 8mm screws holding the top exhaust manifold heat shield and pull it out of the way. Also remove the 7mm screws holding the PCV/EGR? hose assembly mounting plate right above the firewall and lift it up out of the way. This will give you clearance to pull the alternator out from the top.

10. Once out, remove the 13mm bolt holding the rear air duct to the alternator. Also peel back the rubber boot over the positive cable connection and remove the 10mm nut holding it to the terminal. Then press the tab on the three wire connector to release it.

11. Drink beer.

12. Get new/rebuilt/junkyard alternator and install it in reverse order.


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Old 08-18-2011, 10:15 AM   #2
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Find yourself a different dealer
I brought my Ford Transit Connect to get the tires rotated, where i bought the thing
and they didn't know enough that the back tires are 49psi and the front are 36psi.
AND I brought a tire gage to double check them

I will never go there again
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Old 08-18-2011, 05:39 PM   #3
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Genious idea..didn't even think about pulling the studs out of the engine. I went about it the hard way at 12am in my driveway.
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Old 08-18-2011, 06:29 PM   #4
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I'd make this a How-To if you'd put pictures with it. Nice description though. I'm sure that will help a lot of people. Was your car an auto or manual trans?

I also always recommend a local rebuilder. Since you typically save about half the cost of the alternator at a parts store, that's usually over $150, so isn't that worth missing either a day of work or bumming rides from someone for a day?
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Old 08-18-2011, 08:57 PM   #5
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manual trans. Yeah, I had to get this done pretty quickly, so pics were out of the question.
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Old 04-27-2012, 10:21 PM   #6
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I just pulled mine doing everything you said minus taking it out the top. I removed the bolt holding lower motor mount and pried the motor forward while raising it with a floor jack. I also used ramps instead of floor jacks. Thank you this helped a lot.
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Old 04-27-2012, 11:08 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whynotthinkwhynot View Post
I'd make this a How-To if you'd put pictures with it. Nice description though. I'm sure that will help a lot of people. Was your car an auto or manual trans?

I also always recommend a local rebuilder. Since you typically save about half the cost of the alternator at a parts store, that's usually over $150, so isn't that worth missing either a day of work or bumming rides from someone for a day?

Agree^, pic's would be good.
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Old 04-28-2012, 06:40 AM   #8
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I did one with pics, exact same procedure, and I provided pics.
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