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View Poll Results: did you buy an extended warranty?
Nope. Included warranty only. 73 47.10%
Yes. PowertrainCARE (29 key components covered). 1 0.65%
Yes. BaseCARE (84 key components covered). 1 0.65%
Yes. ExtraCARE (113 key components covered). 5 3.23%
Yes. PremiumCARE (500+ key components covered). 75 48.39%
Voters: 155. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 09-24-2012, 01:22 PM   #231
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Has anyone price-checked ESPs recently?

When I first looked about 9 months ago (when I bought the car) it seemed to be running around $850 for a 7yr/100k, $100 deductible PremiumCare plan.

As best as I can tell, the same thing's up to around $955 now. I've checked Zeigler, Flood, Anderson, and Lombard. Haven't been quoted by Troy, Hunt, or Warrick yet since you have to call those guys.

My fault for not buying sooner but I'm close to 12K and need to pull the trigger soon. Just wanted to see if anyone's been able to do better before I go ahead and do so!
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Old 09-24-2012, 03:09 PM   #232
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We went with Anderson-Koch in MN last time, but they are showing $955 also - and they show a price increase on Oct 2 - not sure exactly what that means in $$$, though.
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Old 09-24-2012, 04:04 PM   #233
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Is it worth buying if I purchased a certified used? The Power Train warranty is extended for 100k. Not sure if I will be keeping this car or not so I would kind of hate to plunk down the coin for stuff I may not use. Dealer sold me on it for 3k + service plan, but I canceled that one. If anything I will get the same warranty with cheaper deductible for about 1/2 the price elsewhere.
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Old 09-24-2012, 04:22 PM   #234
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@JustIntoxicated - Really hard to follow what you are asking?

How many miles are on your car?

Did you buy the 100K PT warranty, or it came with it?

Is that 5-years/100K - and if so, will you put that kind of mileage on the car and/or would a 7-year be better for you for the calendar time.

Is it 3K for the warranty you have or something else?

If you say it is cheaper elsewhere with lower deductible, is it still the Ford ESP warranty?

Things to remember - you have 3/36 BTB and either 5/60 or 5/100 PT anyway. The extended warranty just covers beyond that and if you won't keep the car, it is less of a deal (although I think it is transferable for $100).

Also - there are lots of expensive things on the car outside of the powertrain.
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Old 09-24-2012, 05:44 PM   #235
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tiger-Heli View Post
We went with Anderson-Koch in MN last time, but they are showing $955 also - and they show a price increase on Oct 2 - not sure exactly what that means in $$$, though.
Yeah, I was wondering the same thing. But I'll cross 12K within a few days of 10/2 anyway (with the accompanying increase in ESP price) so I need to get this done by then regardless.
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Old 09-24-2012, 11:11 PM   #236
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I would check around too (not with ford, but other companies). I got mine through my insurance company for about $700. 6yr/100k warranty. It isn't as extensive as Ford's but when I purchased my car, the only other warranty that made sense was the $1500 (all-inclusive).

The only reason I got an extended warranty was because of my concerns with the transmission issues everyone's been complaining about. Me personally, radios, window motors, etc, aren't that much of a deal because you can technically use the car without that stuff. You can't without a trans or engine or major engine component.

But I would look around first. You may have a small grace period where you can go back within 7 days and get the warranty as long as nothing happens to the car in that time.
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Old 09-24-2012, 11:15 PM   #237
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justintoxicated View Post
Is it worth buying if I purchased a certified used? The Power Train warranty is extended for 100k. Not sure if I will be keeping this car or not so I would kind of hate to plunk down the coin for stuff I may not use. Dealer sold me on it for 3k + service plan, but I canceled that one. If anything I will get the same warranty with cheaper deductible for about 1/2 the price elsewhere.
This is a call you will probably need to make. If you don't plan on keeping the car for long, don't get it. But do realize that anything can happen at any time. IN a way, you're buying piece-of-mind of not having to fork out large amounts of cash should your trans decide to quit, etc.

This was a tough call for me, but I eventually bit the bullet and realized that I planned on keeping my car for at least 6 years / 100k, so the warranty makes sense over that time frame (to me). For me, it will be less than $100 per year, which is "cheap insurance" in case something major does go wrong. And after the 100k is up, I may trade it in, or keep it... I'll have to make the decision when that time comes.

This is something you'll have to weigh out. But if you do get one, I would suggest looking around, and not just taking the Ford one off the bat. For certified used, depending on what you paid for the car and how much the insurance is in relation to that. If it's 10% or less, it may be worth it. think about where you drive, could you afford to repair the car if something broke (like a radiator, or the AC compressor, etc). Maybe get a second opinion on the condition of the car from someone else to see if there is any signs of things that may be of concern. It's really a personal preference. Some people like the insurance, and not having to worry about how to pay for a major repair. Others have faith in their purchase and assume the risk that if something does break, they'll have to pay out of pocket without assistance from a warranty. It's really your call. I did it mainly so that for the next 6 years or so I won't have to worry about major repair bills. My car expenses are pretty much set and predictable for the most part (at least in terms of maintenance and repairs).
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Old 09-25-2012, 06:18 AM   #238
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I'm a big fan of the extended warranty for two reasons:
  • If the car is acting up - I simply take it to the dealer and say "Fix it" (especially with the zero-deductible warranty). Even if I could do the work myself - for example - I have a minor overheating issue with my car - it isn't the resistor, it isn't the relays, but I replaced all that without fixing the problem (I'm out of warranty now).
  • Whether it's worth the cost depends on perspective. The hood release cable failed on my 2002 under warranty. I think the part was around $50 or $75 and labor was around $200 - ate up a lot of the warranty price. But it still worked, so without the warranty, I would have either lived with it or installed a junkyard part myself. I either saved $275 or $10 depending how you rationalize it.
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Old 09-25-2012, 12:04 PM   #239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tiger-Heli View Post
@JustIntoxicated - Really hard to follow what you are asking?

How many miles are on your car?

Did you buy the 100K PT warranty, or it came with it?

Is that 5-years/100K - and if so, will you put that kind of mileage on the car and/or would a 7-year be better for you for the calendar time.

Is it 3K for the warranty you have or something else?

If you say it is cheaper elsewhere with lower deductible, is it still the Ford ESP warranty?

Things to remember - you have 3/36 BTB and either 5/60 or 5/100 PT anyway. The extended warranty just covers beyond that and if you won't keep the car, it is less of a deal (although I think it is transferable for $100).

Also - there are lots of expensive things on the car outside of the powertrain.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sirhawkeye View Post
This is a call you will probably need to make. If you don't plan on keeping the car for long, don't get it. But do realize that anything can happen at any time. IN a way, you're buying piece-of-mind of not having to fork out large amounts of cash should your trans decide to quit, etc.

This was a tough call for me, but I eventually bit the bullet and realized that I planned on keeping my car for at least 6 years / 100k, so the warranty makes sense over that time frame (to me). For me, it will be less than $100 per year, which is "cheap insurance" in case something major does go wrong. And after the 100k is up, I may trade it in, or keep it... I'll have to make the decision when that time comes.

This is something you'll have to weigh out. But if you do get one, I would suggest looking around, and not just taking the Ford one off the bat. For certified used, depending on what you paid for the car and how much the insurance is in relation to that. If it's 10% or less, it may be worth it. think about where you drive, could you afford to repair the car if something broke (like a radiator, or the AC compressor, etc). Maybe get a second opinion on the condition of the car from someone else to see if there is any signs of things that may be of concern. It's really a personal preference. Some people like the insurance, and not having to worry about how to pay for a major repair. Others have faith in their purchase and assume the risk that if something does break, they'll have to pay out of pocket without assistance from a warranty. It's really your call. I did it mainly so that for the next 6 years or so I won't have to worry about major repair bills. My car expenses are pretty much set and predictable for the most part (at least in terms of maintenance and repairs).
I have currently have 3/36 BTB and 5/100 PT it came with the certified used purchase.

I bought the car used with 2k miles on it, 2 weeks later I'm just over 3k miles. I found the warranties are much cheaper elsewhere so I went and canceled the one I had signed up for. Whats keeping me from the warranty is that you pay more for a "certified used" with the extended 100k 5 year warranty on the drive train, and then when purchasing an extended warranty your basically having to buy that coverage again.

The dealer said they were giving me $1500 off the FORD ESP because it was certified used with the already extended drive train warranty but they were still more than twice the prices I found online, so not a great deal.

I have MFT, so I do worry about electronics going out, but isn't that what junkyards are for, or would this be a huge project? I'm somewhat mechanically inclined but you won't catch me changing clutches or doing engine work. What scares me with this car is the crazy pressures needed by the fuel pump for the direct injection, and the fact that the fuel pump is inside the gas tank....so if that goes out I'm looking at something like 2k in repairs.


I think I could certainly grab the warranty if I had purchased new on this particular vehicle, but since I already have the typical "certified used" warranty it makes the purchasing decision harder.
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Old 09-25-2012, 12:37 PM   #240
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Okay - First off - you put 1000 miles on the car in 2 weeks - if that is typical driving for you, you will put 25K miles a year on the car and be out of warranty in 5 years, regardless so 5years/125K is the most warranty you should be looking at.

Unless you bought the car on the east coast and won't put that much mileage on it routinely.

Second - the dealers can reasonably charge what they want for the warranties, so it's not uncommon the for $1500 off price to be higher than the online prices.

Third - oddly, I don't think CPO comes into the warranty or that you have to be the original owner - the price goes up about $100 after the car is 1yr/12K miles from the original date of service and again after the original 3-year/36K warranty runs out.

Fourth - check the various plans - but there is a LOT of things the PT warranty doesn't cover. MFT you can probably deal with at a junkyard, but think about things like power steering, suspension, brakes, ABS modules, alternators, AC compressors, heater cores, etc.

Fifth - I really doubt it would be $2K to change a fuel pump. PITA to drop the tank, but most cars are that way these days.

Basically, it's going to be your call how much coverage and deductible you want, and yes, some of the coverage does overlap what you already have.

Quote:
I think I could certainly grab the warranty if I had purchased new on this particular vehicle, but since I already have the typical "certified used" warranty it makes the purchasing decision harder.
I can see this both ways.

On the one hand, it sucks to pay extra for coverage that you may never need b/c you already have it (in essence, rather than a 7-year/125K warranty, you're buying a 4-year/89K warranty in all cases, b/c the factory warranty covers the first 3/36 BTB.)

OTOH - the car is essentially new (barely broken in), so if the ESP warranty made sense to you on a brand new car, it should still make sense now.
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