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Old 08-06-2011, 03:21 AM   #1
drysponge
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Caliper bolt torque spec?

Hi all,

Can anyone tell me what the Torque spec is for the caliper bolts to hub?
and if possible would I need to replace the threadlock?

I have a 2007 Ford focus 2.0 petrol

Thanks
Mart


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Old 08-06-2011, 05:50 AM   #2
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i don't think there is thread lock on the bolts. (could be different in australia or it being a 07) if you do use blue, or purple (i think thats the colour of the one weaker then the blue) if you use red you will probably need to torch it to get it out.

as for the torque i'm not sure my shop manual only covers up to 04
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Old 08-06-2011, 05:56 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Mike_Mac View Post
i don't think there is thread lock on the bolts. (could be different in australia or it being a 07) if you do use blue, or purple (i think thats the colour of the one weaker then the blue) if you use red you will probably need to torch it to get it out.

as for the torque i'm not sure my shop manual only covers up to 04
Thanks Mike, Some good advice there on the theardloc

Out of interest, what does your 04 manual state for a torque spec. I'm assuming they shouldn’t be too dissimilar?

Thanks
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Old 08-06-2011, 08:53 AM   #4
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Green, and neither green nor blue will survive forever with brake temps. I change my own brakes and don't use either threadlock or a torque wrench. 35 ft-lbs of torque should be enough to bolt down the caliper bracket bolts. I believe the factory uses a red compound, but it is not the same red that you buy in the stores. The red you get in stores is indestructible- without a propane torch. Blue should be functional enough if it makes you feel better, but proper torquing will do the most for you.

One thing I'm sure of is that you'll know if it's loose. A loose caliper mount bracket will cause a vibration like you've never felt before. I'd keep the appropriate socket and ratchet in the car for week or so just in case. After that you should be fine.
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Old 08-06-2011, 10:01 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drysponge View Post
Out of interest, what does your 04 manual state for a torque spec. I'm assuming they shouldn’t be too dissimilar?
'05 specs
Brake caliper anchor plate bolts 98 lb ft
Brake caliper retaining bolts 21 lb ft
Brake flexible hose to brake caliper 11 lb ft
Brake caliper bleeder screw 71 in lbs
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Old 08-06-2011, 12:13 PM   #6
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I never use any type of lock tight on the caliper bolts, and I've never had a problem.
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Old 08-07-2011, 05:54 AM   #7
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worst case scenario, you overtorque them, strip them. go to napa and get a dorman help caliper self threading one. lol
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Old 08-07-2011, 08:18 AM   #8
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Dayum, 98 lb-ft for caliper bracket bolts!! You certainly don't need any lock-tight at that torque. I know for a fact that mine were not that tight from the factory because I just took them off yesterday. There's no way that was 98 lb-ft, more like 38. I had to have done it when I did the SVT brake change, so those were like that for 80k miles. I can't remember having a terrible time removing them like I'd think you'd have with lock-tite and 98 lb-ft. I'll have to go check my Helms on that one.
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Old 08-07-2011, 08:30 AM   #9
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That's what it is according to my manual- that's totally nuts. I'm seriously starting to think that Ford puts stuff together to frustrate DIY. I'm still working on removing the driver's side CV axle after a whole day of it yesterday. When I've done this on any other vehicle, I'd have that suspension apart and axle removed/replaced and back together in about 5 hours. After more than 5 hours, and the most difficult experience I've ever had with a ball joint- I still don't have the axle out. The ball joint isn't Ford- except that it's tight, which is good. The axle placement and transmission design is. There's no way to use a simply pry bar or pickle fork like with every other FWD transmission I've ever worked on. You must have a special tool. I hate that. The same goes for the placement of the alternator- a commonly replaced part on any vehicle- with the Dtec, you have to pull the axle from the hub in order to have enough room to remove the alternator. That's insane, and irresponsible engineering IMO. I can understand it with vans, but I can't understand it with cars.

I know this is heresy, but if you guys want to see a vehicle that's easy to work on, go pop the hood of a Corolla from about 99 up. The alternator, starter, and intake manifold are at the front of the engine compartment. I haven't looked at everything on that car, but I know when I popped the hood on one, I was impressed with how they had moved accessories around since the 95 model I once worked on where the starter was under the intake which was in the back of the engine compartment.

I just can't see it any differently than Ford simply doesn't want us to work on our own vehicles.
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Old 08-29-2011, 02:59 AM   #10
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Thanks for all the feedback guys.
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