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Old 09-12-2011, 06:02 PM   #91
Craig9080
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Quote:
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I would think a black heavy gauge screen would be better than a bunch of random holes in the plastic.
Actually a heavy gauge black screen mesh in to replace the plastic with the added holes. Then set behind that, a second identical screen back a quarter inch. (or even a pattern drilled in a solid block, or vanes tilting UP diagonally to kill direct water intake
This would smooth out the air coming in and it would be an even, higher pressure zone at speed inside the cavity. The random small holes one cannot tell what effect they have at speed. With the air near a hole being pushed one way, and the air at the hole being buffeted by the adjacent no hole area bounced off airflow.. (a mess aero wise)
I honestly think we are all guessing, i'll admit that I am. Newmission got a decent result and im trying to do a tiny +1. I have thought about the screen but wondered as to whether or not it would actually allow more air than the holes, again, I'm basically guessing. With the hole plan I have right now, I can always take out more if I want.
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Old 09-12-2011, 06:47 PM   #92
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Concerning the holes in the grille insert. I've done some research on what has been manufactured for such applications in the past. This insert is for a Scion xB by Toyota Racing Developement aka TRD. The top insert is TRD, the lower is the factory blank, like we are working with. For once I'm actually going to side with Elizabeth. Notice the fins very in angle through out the insert.



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Old 09-12-2011, 08:28 PM   #93
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It looks like they are trying to catch the air as it rolls past that part of the body. They probably had a wind tunnel, or at least someone who knows what they are talking about, to tell them how to angle the fins. I would love it if Ford did the thinking for us but for now we are experimenting on our own. If I where to use a funnel, I would definitely open the whole damn thing up and only use a screen as mentioned. Until then I will go with the modified hole design.
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Old 09-12-2011, 08:45 PM   #94
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...but I would still like to see if their is an immediate appreciable gain in either power or MPG not having the engine suck through the straw that is the stock intake.
If you disconnect the battery, the PCM will have to re-learn the fuel trims.
Until it does, any test results (subjective or objective) are invalid.
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Old 09-12-2011, 09:06 PM   #95
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If you disconnect the battery, the PCM will have to re-learn the fuel trims.
Until it does, any test results (subjective or objective) are invalid.
Thanks for the heads up, but I very much so disagree with your terminology. Invalid is a strong word, the "before" results are very mush so relevant as the system is assumed to be normalized with the ECU doing everything it can with what it has now. The immediately after results will not be as representative as I previously thought, you are correct there, but they will show how the car performs with the factory fuel mixture settings (or close to it) as it begins to adjust to the new equipment.

Remember, fuel trims are constant incremental adjustments to the fuel/air mixture that are derived from a factory default and modified by current engine variables, and historical data, gather by driving the car. So if their is no historical data, and the product is a factor of the default modified by engine variables and historical data, then you have the Fuel trims only responding to engine variables when the battery is first reconnected.
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Old 09-12-2011, 11:25 PM   #96
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I am really looking forward to doing this once I get my hatch! Another question that I have heard of people doing is just taking off the box? Is this possible to provide more air flow?
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Old 09-12-2011, 11:48 PM   #97
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From messing around with my prior SVT, the changes will be adjusted for just as fast whether battery disconnect or not. The ECU is always ready to adjust fuel trim.
Only if it cannot get it perfect, then your check engine light will pop on. and also then you will know you screwed up too much!.
(been there ,done that with polished mass air sensor, had to buy a new one )
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Old 09-13-2011, 12:58 PM   #98
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I am really looking forward to doing this once I get my hatch! Another question that I have heard of people doing is just taking off the box? Is this possible to provide more air flow?
Yes more air. More HOT air. The opposite of what you want. Cold air is denser. Which interprets to more oxygen. Anytime you can get colder air, you're much farther ahead then providing plenty of hot air.

Here is another example. This one taking advantage of a venturi created by placing the fresh air intake hose perpendicular to the throttle body point of intake. Basically what this mod has done. Now I know Elizabeth is going to chime in and say that's what she originally pointed out as a "negative" draw. However if I am correct, you were referring to the venturi "sucking" from air rushing across the fender well area, or perhaps the aerodynamics of the bumper molding. Not inside of the air box itself.

I'm pointing out that the location of my hose is a beneficial venturi.

http://www.jegs.com/i/VaraRam/937/VR...oductId=755816

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Old 09-13-2011, 02:25 PM   #99
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One small but positive point of just sucking air from the engine bay is it actually cools off the whole engine bay. And then some of that hot air you get into the interior when just using the fresh air into the cabin will be cooler...
So the open to engine bay will suck the heat out and send it down the tailpipe.. at least a bit...
It is true you want cooler air because it is denser than hot air....
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Old 09-13-2011, 07:05 PM   #100
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During some R&D today, the intake air temp balanced out at 2.5 degrees above ambient. Not bad, but I'd like to try for better at lower speeds.



So I picked up a 94 cents funnel and slapper her on. Have yet to do a run. But we'll see. Also adding more holes to the grille insert.

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