|
||||||||
|
Auto Cross, Drag Racing, Car Show, Awards & Prizes - Register Now! |
||||||||
|
|||||||
General Technical Chat This section is for technical discussions relating to general maintenance, electrical issues, engine trouble, and recalls.
|
![]() |
![]() |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|
#1 | ||||
|
Focus Rookie
|
Normal Amp Draw
Hi guys and gals, trying to aquire some information about my 2008 Ford Focus. All the videos I've watched have said that a 50 miliamp draw is the norm for car batteries, but I have also read that some guys get a 1.2-1.4 amp draw out of their Focus. Mine is reading about 1.4, is this the norm or do I need to start trouble shooting a parasitic draw? Thank for your help.
|
||||
|
|
|
|
|
Remove Advertisements |
|
Focus Fanatic
Fan#: 1
|
|
|
|
#2 | ||||
|
Focus Addict
|
I think that it takes a while for the electronics to 'go to sleep' then there will be much less current flow
15 minutes to 30 minutes? |
||||
|
|
|
|
|
#3 | ||||
|
Focus Rookie
|
I checked it 3 hours later and got a reading of 1.43 amps, but after holding the leads on there for about 30 seconds the amps dropped down to 200 miliamps, is that a reasonable current draw for these cars? I just purchased this car used and all the electronics, memory, and computer stuff is new to me.
|
||||
|
|
|
|
|
#4 | ||||
|
Focus Addict
|
My memory is fuzzy
I think if you happened to open a door to open up the engine hood then some of the electronics may come back to 'life'. Since there is no electrical switch on the hood then leave it open to do testing. Are you using a DC clamp on ammeter? then that is the best way, then you avoid anything that might trigger the electronics to 'wake up' But I think 200 ma is close to reasonable There is more computing power in these present day cars than what went to the moon! |
||||
|
|
|
|
|
#6 | ||||
|
Focus Addict
|
Quote:
As mikeeshaq mentioned a clamp meter would be best to avoiding the possibility of 'waking' something up. You are resetting something (recharging capacitors) every time you break and then make the power connection - with the meter in series. (Radio?, PCM or at least part of the PCM - PAS.....)
__________________
Member of the Dropped Valve Seat Club. Replaced #4 Piston, Rings, Rod+Bearings, AERA Re-Manufactured Cylinder Head and a light Hone. Then CLEANED the hell out of everything. 40k+ miles, now jinxed? |
||||
|
|
|
|
|
#8 | ||||
|
Focus Addict
|
A DC clamp on ammeter is not a cheap thing to buy [nor easy to find, it has a 'Hall Effect' sensor]
Found one on Ebay from China for less that $100 For certain a_2000_se is correct. Placing an ammeter on the open ground lead will wake up stuff My memory is hazy I think The electronics will go to 'sleep' in stages Last edited by mikeeshaq; 06-29-2012 at 04:12 PM. |
||||
|
|
|
|
|
#9 | ||||
|
Focus Addict
|
Just got the most recent flyer advertisement in the mail from Harbor Freight.
You can now get Clamp-On meters cheaply. CEN-TECH #96308 and #95683, $11.99 and $13.99 respectively. Haven't seen the spec's on them yet but maybe one of the two will be good for automotive applications.
__________________
Member of the Dropped Valve Seat Club. Replaced #4 Piston, Rings, Rod+Bearings, AERA Re-Manufactured Cylinder Head and a light Hone. Then CLEANED the hell out of everything. 40k+ miles, now jinxed? |
||||
|
|
|
|
| Bookmarks & Social Networks |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
|
||||